08 G6 GT Power door locks - Pontiac G6 Forum
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-30-2010, 10:42 AM Thread Starter
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08 G6 GT Power door locks

My back door locks have quit working. I have tried to lock/unlock them with my remote and the driver door pannel button.The passenger rear door lock tries to unlock/ lock sometimes. you can see it move a little but that is it. Does anyone have any ideas on how to fix it?
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-30-2010, 03:23 PM
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Are the child locks on or off?

Do you have a blown fuse somewhere?

Other than that thought I'd guess that you have a wire loose somewhere.


Worst case scenario is that the door lock solenoids are blown. I've never seen two blow at the same time so my guess goes with blown fuse or loose wire.

Good luck!

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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-05-2010, 07:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SFletcher View Post
My back door locks have quit working. I have tried to lock/unlock them with my remote and the driver door pannel button.The passenger rear door lock tries to unlock/ lock sometimes. you can see it move a little but that is it. Does anyone have any ideas on how to fix it?
Same problem has just cropped up in my 2008 G6 GT. Mine is on the driver's side which is a big pain as I like to chuck my bag in the back seat before getting in myself. My wife's 2006 G6 GTP has not experienced this problem.

I'll check the fuses and post and update as to whether or not that worked.
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-06-2010, 11:50 PM
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i have the same problem with rear doors that dont unlock. it seems to be worse in the heat. i'm thinking about opening the doors to see wtf. i have a haynes manual so it can't be too tough.
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-20-2010, 11:29 AM
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i have the same problem with rear doors that dont unlock. it seems to be worse in the heat. i'm thinking about opening the doors to see wtf. i have a haynes manual so it can't be too tough.
(Emphasis mine.)

I live in Florida so heat could definitely be related. This didn't occur last summer, but this has been a very hot spring-into-miserable-summer.

I checked the fuse (15A in the Interior Fuse Box). That does not seemed to have solved the problem.

I removed the two plastic "push pins" (forgive my automotive ignorance) in the rear driver door panel. I could not remove the panel completely (More "pins"? Screws? Help please?), but I was able to peer in from the side to see some of the door lock mechanism. I was able to manipulate the mechanism (forcibly), and after doing so, the lock was responsive a few times before it returned to its previous in-operative state.

Based on my (lame) troubleshooting, this appears to be an issue with the mechanical linkage of the door lock rather than an electrical issue. If anyone has some instruction, or even pointers, on removing the rear driver-side door panel on a 2008 G6, or repairing this linkage, please post or message.
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-20-2010, 04:42 PM
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Right inside the door handle there will be a little cover with a screw underneath it. You will also need to pop off the trim on the door, and there will be two screws behind there.
After that it is just connected with clips so you just need to pull it off. As your pulling it will make loud snaps, not to worry though, just the sound it makes as the clips come undone.
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-01-2010, 10:24 AM
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My wifes 08 G6 has this same problem, back door, drivers side. It's a pain to get the actuator out and it is all one, unserviceable piece that is build into the latch. Does anyone have a part number for this? I had to put it all back together just to stay somewhat functional, now I have to order a new one and do it all over again.
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-01-2010, 11:05 AM
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Maybe lubricating the lock linkage will help?

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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-01-2010, 11:13 AM
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Linkage moves with ease, its the motor that seems bound and the box is riveted closed. There are several T15 screws that make it look serviceable, but once all those are out, you still have the rivets. It's mostly plastic anyway and not worth trying to drill out the rivets. Price is ~$60-$90 for a new one. I have found the part numbers: 20777855 and 20777854. Not sure which one is left or right, apparantly, there is quite a price difference between the two units. Used parts are pretty cheap, but hate to replace with used and have the same problem next week.
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-01-2010, 01:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reineke View Post
Linkage moves with ease, its the motor that seems bound and the box is riveted closed. There are several T15 screws that make it look serviceable, but once all those are out, you still have the rivets. It's mostly plastic anyway and not worth trying to drill out the rivets. Price is ~$60-$90 for a new one. I have found the part numbers: 20777855 and 20777854. Not sure which one is left or right, apparently, there is quite a price difference between the two units. Used parts are pretty cheap, but hate to replace with used and have the same problem next week.
Try spraying some CRC Electrical Contact Cleaner into the solenoid if possible, and work it in by pushing the linkage back & forth.

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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-08-2010, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reineke View Post
Linkage moves with ease, its the motor that seems bound and the box is riveted closed. There are several T15 screws that make it look serviceable, but once all those are out, you still have the rivets. It's mostly plastic anyway and not worth trying to drill out the rivets. Price is ~$60-$90 for a new one. I have found the part numbers: 20777855 and 20777854. Not sure which one is left or right, apparantly, there is quite a price difference between the two units. Used parts are pretty cheap, but hate to replace with used and have the same problem next week.

Just to clarify,

20777854 $106.25 $0.00 $72.07
Electrical - Body electrical - Rear door - Lock actuator
Lock actuator, g6, right 2007 - 2010


20777855 $117.42 $0.00 $79.65
Electrical - Body electrical - Rear door - Lock actuator
Lock actuator, g6, left 2007 - 2010
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-15-2013, 02:19 PM
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Lock actuator

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Originally Posted by Reineke View Post
Just to clarify, Where did you find these part numbers and are they for new parts?

20777854 $106.25 $0.00 $72.07
Electrical - Body electrical - Rear door - Lock actuator
Lock actuator, g6, right 2007 - 2010


20777855 $117.42 $0.00 $79.65
Electrical - Body electrical - Rear door - Lock actuator
Lock actuator, g6, left 2007 - 2010
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-19-2013, 09:39 PM
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Driver's rear door lock

My son's G6 has same problem with left rear door lock. Has anyone tried drilling the rivets and attempted repair? Guess we got to do the repair as well. Is there a pictorial of the repair on site here and or a pic of the lock solenoid. Would be nice to see before pulling door apart. BTW where did you find the lock mechanism for that price? We also have the problem with the C Control disconnect while driving and will try the suggested fixes. Thanks.
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-19-2013, 10:37 PM
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My son's G6 has same problem with left rear door lock. Has anyone tried drilling the rivets and attempted repair? Guess we got to do the repair as well. Is there a pictorial of the repair on site here and or a pic of the lock solenoid. Would be nice to see before pulling door apart.
i've postmortemed a couple lock actuators. the process of taking them apart destroys them. i can't imagine u would ever get them back together. there's a short replacement how-to in the chiltons.

i know that aura forum member "lowsaturn" has documented his repair which for the most part is the same as the g6. but i just spent 15 minutes without finding it. good searching is all in the search terms.

once u do one the process goes quick for the others that are soon to fail also.
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-26-2013, 05:20 AM
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i know that aura forum member "lowsaturn" has documented his repair...
Is this the link you're looking for sir?
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=177851
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