HOW TO - Replace the Turn Signal Switch - Pontiac G6 Forum
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post #1 of 37 (permalink) Old 05-09-2013, 04:41 PM Thread Starter
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HOW TO - Replace the Turn Signal Switch

It seems to be pretty common for the Turn Signal switch to stop canceling after a turn. Nowadays the turn signal switch can be replaced without having to pull the steering wheel. The switch itself isn't fairly expensive and can be purchased from amazon for less than $30

The Part Number is: 20940369

First I'll outline removing the old switch, Replacing the new one is just the same steps in reverse.
Then I'll point out the weakness in these switches.

Tools Needed:

- 7mm Socket/Nut Driver



- Flathead Screwdriver


To make it easier, tilt the steering wheel as far down as possible, and pull it as far out as possible:


Now to pop off the top cover. It just snaps on, I found it easy to grab it by the edges from each stalk hole and just pop it up:


Once open you'll see all the wires and switches, Amazing how much crud settles down in there:


Next you'll need to remove the lower cover. It is held in place with 3 7mm bolts.



Once the bolts are removed you can either just let it hang, or wiggle it out. It's not too difficult to get it passed the tilt lever:


It's also worth noting those bolts are screwed into plastic, When it comes time to replace everything you don't need to tighten these down very much. It's just a plastic cover after all.


Now the switch is held in with two clips only. One on top, one on the bottom:


You can just take a screwdriver to each little opening and push them inward to release the clips:

Last edited by CruisinG6; 09-23-2015 at 11:08 AM.
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post #2 of 37 (permalink) Old 05-09-2013, 04:42 PM Thread Starter
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On mine, when I pushed the clip down it clicked in place and stayed down:


Once the clips are released you can just pull it straight out, there's enough slack in the wires to get it all the way out:


I found when replacing the new switch I had to pop each clip up again to lock it in place.

There are two connectors to unplug.
The left one you need to pull the black clip outwards as you unplug the connector, and the right one you just simply push the locking clip in as you pull it out:


And now the old switch is removed and you are ready for the new switch.
Next I'll describe how these work and where the obvious flaw is.

Last edited by CruisinG6; 05-09-2013 at 04:44 PM.
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post #3 of 37 (permalink) Old 05-09-2013, 04:42 PM Thread Starter
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So here is the entire turn signal switch:


If we look on the business end that sits inside the column we see a little white tab just inside the opening:


--For the next few photos I flicked the switch to signal a RIGHT turn--
When you move the lever to signal a turn that little white tab sticks out:


Now, when you make a turn there is an extra bit of plastic that sits on the steering column that moves with the steering wheel:


Here's a quick video showing that in motion to give you a better idea:


It's this plastic piece that catches the white tab on the switch to cancel the signal

With the signal set to show a right turn the tab can be pushed upwards (during the right turn) and it simply just hides away into the switch housing:


But when the steering wheel comes back to the left, It'll hit that plastic tab and catch and then cancel the signal.

If I push a little harder on the tab, it would cancel the signal and then pop back into the housing.


It is this little white plastic tab and what it connects to inside the switch that breaks. Usually I found what breaks the tab is holding the switch through a turn, Say if you're going through a double turn and you want to signal for both, instead of letting it cancel some people will hold it down as the steering wheel comes back. If you do this you'll hear a louder click, and that can break the tab or something inside it connects to.

Last edited by CruisinG6; 09-23-2015 at 11:14 AM.
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post #4 of 37 (permalink) Old 05-10-2013, 11:10 AM
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Nice How To!!

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post #5 of 37 (permalink) Old 05-10-2013, 03:09 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks! I figured we needed a Turn Signal Switch How To. Now to wait for my door latch to go out...
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post #6 of 37 (permalink) Old 05-10-2013, 03:28 PM
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Nice writeup. Looks just like how I swapped mine when it crapped out.

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2009 Techno Gray Metallic G6 GXP Sedan (3.6L Auto6 112K miles)
---
CRAB Intake Opt 3 w/FPU, Lloyds GXP floor mats, HIDs low 6000k 55w/fog 3000k 35w, LED DRLs behind lower grills, V3 Triton LED turn signal/reverse/brake, LED side markers/maps/dome/tag/trunk/high mount stop, 2 coats niteshades on tails, Tint 35% all around, Debadged (except arrows), PAC IPod and BT adapters, PowerStop D/S rotors and ceramic pads, Resonator repl w/24" cherry bomb, Racingline STB, Big 3 Upgrade, Optima Yellowtop D75/25, Blacked out arrows, chrome window trim and black dipped wheels, KYB struts and shocks, CM lowering springs, Cherry Bomb Vortex Crossflow muffler, 2.5" pipe from axle back, two 4" stainless double walled slant tips
...still working...
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post #7 of 37 (permalink) Old 05-10-2013, 04:16 PM Thread Starter
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When you pushed the clips in did they click and stay in as well?
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post #8 of 37 (permalink) Old 05-10-2013, 06:09 PM
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Yes, very cleanly if I recall correctly.

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2009 Techno Gray Metallic G6 GXP Sedan (3.6L Auto6 112K miles)
---
CRAB Intake Opt 3 w/FPU, Lloyds GXP floor mats, HIDs low 6000k 55w/fog 3000k 35w, LED DRLs behind lower grills, V3 Triton LED turn signal/reverse/brake, LED side markers/maps/dome/tag/trunk/high mount stop, 2 coats niteshades on tails, Tint 35% all around, Debadged (except arrows), PAC IPod and BT adapters, PowerStop D/S rotors and ceramic pads, Resonator repl w/24" cherry bomb, Racingline STB, Big 3 Upgrade, Optima Yellowtop D75/25, Blacked out arrows, chrome window trim and black dipped wheels, KYB struts and shocks, CM lowering springs, Cherry Bomb Vortex Crossflow muffler, 2.5" pipe from axle back, two 4" stainless double walled slant tips
...still working...
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post #9 of 37 (permalink) Old 05-12-2013, 05:56 AM
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Man this is right on time. Mine just went out. I thought all my bass vibrations did it but evidently it's a common problem. Thanks Crusin!


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post #10 of 37 (permalink) Old 05-12-2013, 07:23 AM Thread Starter
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No problem! Just to add, mine has been replaced twice already. Hopefully the newer switches are a bit stronger.
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post #11 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-19-2013, 10:19 AM
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I was wondering if these pictures correlate for any year G6? I have a 2006 and was wondering if the set up is exactly the same as the pictures shown in this how-to? Thanks.

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post #12 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-19-2013, 01:52 PM Thread Starter
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Every G6 I've seen has been set up this way. But I can't say 100% that your 2006 is the same. You can always pop off the top cover for the steering column and see how it looks. If its the same from up top then it should all be the same when replacing.
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post #13 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-12-2013, 11:59 PM
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Used this on my 07 GTP after my turn signal switch stopped auto canceling and felt like crap when going to the left.

Took me 10 minutes, most the time i was laughing at Nascar radio and that includes the test drive.

Cost me 22$ to buy the part off Amazon.

Great write up cruisin
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post #14 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-13-2013, 12:03 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks, glad it helped you out! It is pretty easy once you get into it.
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post #15 of 37 (permalink) Old 11-15-2013, 02:34 PM
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Great article and with these instructions it was the easiest switch to put in I've ever done. The dealer told me the steering wheel needed to be removed and a sensor for the air bag would have to be replaced, I called another one and was told the same thing but the price went from 400.00 to possibly 500.00. The dealers really hurt themselves when they stretch a job out like this, I would have felt better if they told me it was a fairly easy job and they could do it for the cost of the part and minimum of 1/2 hour labor or even 1 hr labor. There are times when I do not have the time or part and would pay if I felt they were treating me fairly. I took less than 10 minutes to do this and that was with getting a couple of tools out of my garage.
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