"How To" change the front brake pads/rotor. - Pontiac G6 Forum
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post #1 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-16-2010, 04:51 PM Thread Starter
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"How To" change the front brake pads/rotor.

Hi fellow G6ers
In this “HOW-TO” I’ll go through the steps I took to change the brake pads and rotors (front only) for my 2007 G6 GT (3.5L).

I use NAPA’s OE-Ceramic pads # SS-7932-X (about $55.00). Also, I had them machine the rotors instead of replace them ($18.00) mainly because replacing them wasn’t necessary.

It was a very easy task for a nice Saturday morning. The tools needed were; a hydraulic jack, two small jack stands, a 9/16” socket, a 15mm socket (with a 3/8” drive ratchet), "C" clamp and a screw driver.

(FIGURE-1)First I broke lose the lug nuts (barely) then jacked up the car. Once the G6 was being supported by the jack stands I removed the front tires, (take note, which tire belongs on which side, its important for radial tires.)(FIGURE-2).
(FIGURE-3-1)The next step is to remove the (2) two top bolts from the brake assembly then remove the two bottom bolts (FIGURE-3-2). (NOTE; leave the bolt (15mm) that fastens the brake assembly snug so you can slide the pad housing off.) Once you have the caliber off support it with a tie-wrap or piece of string so it doesn’t tangle by the fluid line. I used a small short bungee cord (FIGURE-4).Then remove the final bolt (15mm) that is left.

By now you should have the whole brake assembly on the ground and hanging up by a bungee (FIGURE-4 and FIGURE-5). Now just pop the old pads out of the housing and set them aside.

Next step, the rotor, with the brake parts cleared from the area notice that (2) two lugs have retaining clips on them (FIGURE-6). These clips must be removed before the rotor can be removed. There might be a tool for this clip but I used a screwdriver to loosen it (turning it counter clockwise) then I simply unscrewed it from the lugs. Once this clip is removed you should be able to just slide the rotor off.

Now you should have the rotor on the ground next to the brake parts. At this time you can either drive down to your local parts store and have them machine (turn)the rotors or you have a new set ready for installation.

The CALIPER piston;
Before you can insert your new brake pads you will need to retract the caliper piston. This is done by a “Caliper Tool”. I used, and many others too, a “C” clamp.
Notice in figure-8 the caliper piston, this is the position before using the “Caliber Tool”. Figure-9 is the piston after using the “Caliper Tool” (or “C” clamp).
Using the “C” clamp;
Place an old pad in the front of the caliper piston and slowly tighten the clamp down (see figure-10) till the piston reaches bottom. Be sure your piston boot does not bulge out, if so you may have air in the boot and will not be able to install the new pads without damaging the boot. (That is an easy fix but not for here.)
To install the brake assemblies first reinstall the new or machined rotor, don’t forget the retaining clips, then install the housing assembly (see figure-4). At this time you can insert the new pads into the housing (NOTE; insert the pads in the same position in which they were removed, noting the positions during removal and reuse the metal backs if they are still there.) Once the new pads are in place slide the caliper onto the housing. If the caliper section does not fit you may need to check the caliper piston and be sure it is retracted all the way. Then reverse the order of sequences for removal.

This “HOW TO” is meant to give others an idea of what to expect.
If someone else would like to add to this “HOW TO” then please do.


Before anyone chooses to criticize a “HOW TO” please write your version and post it so you can see it’s harder than it looks.
I hope I was helpful and good luck!!!!





Figure 1, 2, 3-1, 3-2 and 4.
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Last edited by geewhiz; 03-10-2012 at 02:55 PM.
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post #2 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-16-2010, 05:01 PM Thread Starter
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Figure 5, 6, 7 and 8.
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Last edited by geewhiz; 10-16-2010 at 05:47 PM.
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post #3 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-16-2010, 05:05 PM Thread Starter
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Figure 9 and 10.
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Mike
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post #4 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-16-2010, 10:46 PM
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Very useul and informative. Thank You! Will come in handy here soon. Brake upgrade in near future.

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post #5 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-26-2011, 12:01 PM
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This is a great write up. One thing I did notice though is to make sure that before you compress the caliper piston, that you open the bleed valve on the top of the caliper itself. You can see it on the back of the caliper in figure 2 with a rubber cap on it. This will not only make it a lot easier to compress the piston, but also avoid damaging anything else in your brake system. Once you have the piston compressed, just tighten the valve back up and replace any lost fluid in the reservoir with fresh fluid. If you open this valve first, you can actually compress the piston with just your hands instead of having to use a clamp.
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post #6 of 34 (permalink) Old 03-26-2011, 02:58 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ksucrow View Post
This is a great write up. One thing I did notice though is to make sure that before you compress the caliper piston, that you open the bleed valve on the top of the caliper itself. You can see it on the back of the caliper in figure 2 with a rubber cap on it. This will not only make it a lot easier to compress the piston, but also avoid damaging anything else in your brake system. Once you have the piston compressed, just tighten the valve back up and replace any lost fluid in the reservoir with fresh fluid. If you open this valve first, you can actually compress the piston with just your hands instead of having to use a clamp.
Good point, I learned a long time ago to compress the caliper slowly to avoid damage.
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post #7 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-13-2011, 01:30 PM
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I might do it myself after reading and seeing this....Thank you very much ......
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post #8 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-02-2011, 09:33 PM
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is it normal for the rear brakes to always glaze over time? i have to sand down my rotors about once every two months because its gets so bad. my calipers aren't frozen, and i dont ride my brakes. i'm guessing its because of the cheap solid rotors? i'm switching to ceramic pads when its time.
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post #9 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-03-2011, 08:41 AM Thread Starter
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yes, they are being buffed everytime you drive.
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post #10 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-03-2011, 06:58 PM
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okay, thanks. i might also look for some aftermarket vented rotors to keep them cooler.
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post #11 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-04-2011, 08:59 AM
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Buying a new house this month but will be changing the pads on my G6GTP as soon as I get it out of storage, this was very helpful...thanks
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post #12 of 34 (permalink) Old 07-01-2011, 09:13 PM
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take the wheel off, depending on the model, or you may need a Torch socket to remove the clamp. Remove the old caliper and pads, then using the C clamp to press the cylinder, so the new brake pads fit. Then replace the caliper and then continue to the side.

For more instruction on how to replace brake pads visit the site.

Last edited by kidashley25; 08-28-2013 at 08:03 PM.
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post #13 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-18-2011, 03:59 PM
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Nice write up!

I attempted to My front rotors came in on Friday, and I picked up the pads earlier last week. I took the wheel off, not a problem. Removed the two caliper bolts, again not a problem. I then attempted to remove the two 15mm bolts and I swear they were welded on. I had the car up on the axle stands, of course, and even with the parking brake engaged I was rocking it like something fierce. I sprayed the bolts slightly to see if that would make a difference after lunch. Nope.

I got in, turned the wheel to a better angle to see if that would help. Nope. I switched to another 15mm socket with a larger & longer ratchet to see if I could budge it. Not even with pulling me off the ground, and I'm a big guy! I used a box end wrench next along with a hammer. No movement. GM definitely over tightened these bolts. I have an appointment tomorrow so I can waste $100 or so on labour. Perhaps my GT was one of those Friday cars? It would explain a lot.

Again, nice write up! I should've checked here first instead of stumbling around trying different sockets until I found the one I needed. Also, I don't mean to be critical but guys, it's a CALIPER, not a Dodge car model called the CALIBER.

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post #14 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-18-2011, 04:41 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 360ci View Post
Nice write up!

I attempted to My front rotors came in on Friday, and I picked up the pads earlier last week. I took the wheel off, not a problem. Removed the two caliper bolts, again not a problem. I then attempted to remove the two 15mm bolts and I swear they were welded on. I had the car up on the axle stands, of course, and even with the parking brake engaged I was rocking it like something fierce. I sprayed the bolts slightly to see if that would make a difference after lunch. Nope.

I got in, turned the wheel to a better angle to see if that would help. Nope. I switched to another 15mm socket with a larger & longer ratchet to see if I could budge it. Not even with pulling me off the ground, and I'm a big guy! I used a box end wrench next along with a hammer. No movement. GM definitely over tightened these bolts. I have an appointment tomorrow so I can waste $100 or so on labour. Perhaps my GT was one of those Friday cars? It would explain a lot.

Again, nice write up! I should've checked here first instead of stumbling around trying different sockets until I found the one I needed. Also, I don't mean to be critical but guys, it's a CALIPER, not a Dodge car model called the CALIBER.
Did you try a few sharp pings with a ball pin hammer on the bolt? That has saved me many times!

Caliber?? I must have missed it, where is it and I'll change it.

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post #15 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-18-2011, 07:50 PM
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