i have tried to read as many threads as i could lol...but the answers i am looking for werent very clear to me.....how would i go about adding a 2 channel rockford amp to power 2 10"subs?..i wanna keep the stock deck, but just add some bass......i have read about the remote wire hook up, just not quite sure about the inputs for the amp itself.....being RCA jacks on the amp, is there a way to add this to the monsoon system?....thanks for any and all help!:beer:

no one knows how lol?

it isnt hard at all 1st you need to get a converter to splice into your 6x9s speaker wire to rca, you can buy this at circuit city or and audio store, then just run your amp cables as normal. the only thing that you will have to find on your own is a remote wire, get a light tester and find something under the dash or on the left side of your trunk that only has power when the car is on. hope this helps

These car manufacture's have improved factory sound but is still limited. And it all start's at the head unit. It made to protect your factory speaker's. So when you hook up an amp to the rear speaker's it's controlled through ur head unit and is highly influenced by the bass and treble controls. Your best bet is to purchase a sound processor. I bought the MTX re-Q and it's a miracle worker. Right now Crutchfield.com has it cheaper than when I bought it from there but it's the same one. Even though it's inexpensive it's really good. I'm used to have the big 12's and 15's but since I bought my 07 g6 I didn't want a huge box limiting my trunk space. So I bought the powered Visonic 12" sub that already come's in a box with an amp from walmart(yes walmart). It's only rated at 250 watts, but that's RMS power which is true power. I only have one cause my wife dosen't like the big bang but it's still a good choice especially hooked up to that sound processor and the woofer is only 50 buck's already installed in a nice box and the amp built into the box as well. You can very easily install two. You still need the wire coming from the batt. for each one but it's a good inexpensive to go.

I just had tweeter install my kenwood amp and 2- 12" JL's I got in and couldnt figure out why the base was at like negative 6, then the sirius powered up and I found out why, unlike with my last 2 cars that the subs were in I decided to leave the factory head unit in this one. It sounds good, you just have to fool around witht he base, treble, mids, and f-r fade, as for which cables to use..... I get lucky that one of the girls I work with at the bar has a husband who installs at twetter, so I take it to him and he knocks a little off the price, plus its warranty work so if there is an issue I take it back to them.

what you need is a line out converter it hooks up into the + - terminals in one of the speakers in the trunk and then you hook up the rca's to the converter

ok, i have a amp with the remote gain on it so i am not that worried about the head unit distorting it which it should not if i use the rca converter?
the one question i have is, does anyone know which wires off the back speakers are pos or neg.....i have not looked under there yet,,,,,,any help would be greatly appreciated.

Alright, I've put it all together and added a sub to my factory radio. This link shows you the pictures in steps. I've tied on to the car's power and high input to the amp. I've made a handy quick connect to take the sub out if needed. I added a capacitor to take the load off of the smaller power wire. sounds great. I've bridged the amp to put out about 200 watt. Remote wire is the small pink wire with the red wire tie to it. You can get the wiring diagram from crutchfields web site by searching for pontiac.
http://kevinandjamie.servegame.com/pictures/g6%20audio/

here's the website with the monsoon wiring diagram
http://www.crutchfield.com/app/Support/KnowledgeBase.aspx?ifs=pontiac

I just put a sub in my car about 30 minutes ago.
The first thing you need is a Scosche Level Converter. You can get one of these at walmart for $18. Next you have to splice wires into your rear 6x9's and run them to the Level Converter. IT DOES NOT MATTER WHICH IS POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE! then you just hook up the amp and sub like normal. Except the remote wire. you have to hook this into a fuse. i used the Hvac Ignition one. its located on the right side of the center console. you just stuff the wire in one of the fuse holes and put the fuse back in.

just put a solo l7 12 in a ported box in my trunk with a kicker 1200 watt mono amp... so much bass... lol... only prob is now my fm stereo will only pick up local channels anything i used to pick up is now static does anyone know what i messed up by putting an amp in? oh yea i didnt pull the cd player out i used a line output converter

Um, I have two kicker L7 15's and a Planet Audio monoblock amp. could i get away with just wiring the amp up to a line converter ( Splice into the 6x9 output) or, would i be better off to just replace the whole head unit

well you could change the deck but when you do you lose all ur d.i.c controls such as oil life rest and ext. you can buy a costly kit but yes just run the power wire as normal and then run the remote wire off a fuse in the fuse box that only comes on with the ignition and then the line output converter from ur 6x9s then run the rcas to the amp. its reall simple if you have any wiring question feel free to ask

okay thats what i was concerned about was the d.i.c controls. where can you get that kit you were talking about?

i have an 06 G6 GT with the Moonsoon, was wondering if there were indeed RCA jacks on the back of the head, and if not would it make a sound quality diff to use the adapter to splice into rear speaker wire?

ok sooooooo on the monsoon amp wiring diagram on crutchfield...the pink wire is the remote turn on? correct? so i could tie into that for the remote wire on my amp?

ok sooooooo on the monsoon amp wiring diagram on crutchfield...the pink wire is the remote turn on? correct? so i could tie into that for the remote wire on my amp?

Yes, Look at my picture of the wires running to the amp. My remote wire is the top left small pink wire.

http://www.kevinandjamie.net/pictures/g6%20audio/

Upgrading the deck will be the most costly auido mod you'll do... there are ways around it but in the end you can not achieve optimal sound without doing so....FYI.

Alright, I've put it all together and added a sub to my factory radio. This link shows you the pictures in steps. I've tied on to the car's power and high input to the amp. I've made a handy quick connect to take the sub out if needed. I added a capacitor to take the load off of the smaller power wire. sounds great. I've bridged the amp to put out about 200 watt. Remote wire is the small pink wire with the red wire tie to it. You can get the wiring diagram from crutchfields web site by searching for pontiac.
http://www.kevinandjamie.net/pictures/g6%20audio/

just wondering if your car has the same system and wiring with mine.. Is it really that easy?? just get some wiring done from the trunk? i'm buying a used sub, a used amp, and subbox.. what would I need after that? thanks in advance..

If you use the power wires in your trunk make sure you have a capacitor to take the load off of them. It was pretty easy, I had the wiring diagram for the speaker wires which helped out.

A word of caution about the line level converters. The monsoon amp attenuates the bass to keep from blowing the speakers. When you have a converter on the 6x9's, it works, but as you turn the volume up, the amp turns the bass DOWN. If you have a remote bass knob, you can probably compensate, but I didn't have a knob, and could never adjust the amp gains to play hard at high volume OR they'd bass me out when it was turned down. Best way around this is to tap the Monsoon amp inputs, as this is pre-EQ. I picked up a Radio Shack RCA speaker cord and cut it in half.

Hope this helps!

A word of caution about the line level converters. The monsoon amp attenuates the bass to keep from blowing the speakers. When you have a converter on the 6x9's, it works, but as you turn the volume up, the amp turns the bass DOWN. If you have a remote bass knob, you can probably compensate, but I didn't have a knob, and could never adjust the amp gains to play hard at high volume OR they'd bass me out when it was turned down. Best way around this is to tap the Monsoon amp inputs, as this is pre-EQ. I picked up a Radio Shack RCA speaker cord and cut it in half.

Hope this helps!
Yeah thats what I found When I started looking into adding amp and subs so this is what I used: http://www.reqsound.com/
Made it easy just spliced the rear speaker wires and got it for 80 bucks off amazon.

good point, but I was wondering if it were the radio that turned down the bass and not the amp... "Because the radio has the auto EQ and VOL level"

I thought I read that it was the actual head unit

good point, but I was wondering if it were the radio that turned down the bass and not the amp... "Because the radio has the auto EQ and VOL level"
Good question.... The answer is yes. The factory GM raido they have installed is a generic one used in several makes/models and they all have the same problom.. Also using the factory deck will (over time and at high level's) degrade the life of both amp and sub due to the "dirty" freq. being sent to it. Not to mention a few other bad things that can possibly occur because of it.

A word of caution about the line level converters. The monsoon amp attenuates the bass to keep from blowing the speakers.

Naw, it's not at all that nefarious. While yes it is true that the bass is reduced at higher volumes it is not for the reason you suspect. Instead the bass is boosted at lower volumes and that extra boost is leveled off as you turn up the volume until no extra boost is added.

Human beings do not have linear response to different audio frequencies as volume is increased from low to high (it's non-linear if you do a frequency sweep at a constant amplitude as well, but that's a different discussion). Back in the dark ages, radios were provided with a separate button or switch labeled loudness that when activated would add some bass boost. The idea was that you would turn it on at lower volumes and turn it off at higher volumes. As time progressed, the circuits got a little smarter and would roll off some (but not all) of the boost as the volume was raised. With the new Digital Signal Processing circuits commonly found these days (the Rock, Jazz, etc. auto-EQ), adaptive loudness has become part of the mix.

To set your stereo up properly, you should turn it up to the maximum level at which you will typically listen to it, then set all the parameters. As you turn down the volume, you should notice that the bass sounds about the same relative to the rest of the audio program as it did at the higher volume.

~ MattInSoCal
earning my title

hey man. i have a g6 gt and iam trying to hook up one 12 and an amp ( and haven a hell of a time ) c i want keep the factory deck , just want to up grade the basssssss baby. i will try what i got you guys let you know what happens

i use the fuse wiper sw its a 10 amp fuse close to the bottom of the fuse box(or floor board) i did this so i can still listen to the subs with the car off u can use the ignition fuse but they will only work when the key is in the one position anything else just hit me up

yea, thats all nice, but what i did which might be more complicated was i took the whole radio out, hooked it up that way and ran the thin like 16gauge(blue wire-to turn off and on with ignition) wire from my amp down to the fuse box on the passenger side and on the left you can pop out the panel on the floor and i just hooked it up to one of the fuses so when the cars on, the subs and amp stay on etc. I had the little RCA power inverter(see through green "Peripheral"- brand) hooked up behind the radio instead of back by the 6x9's. Thats just how i did it. My system pounds!!! New 7'' Power Acoustik Double Din installing soon!!!! :) Installed Now ( 2 12" Alpine Type S with a 600w Sony Explode.)

i use the fuse wiper sw its a 10 amp fuse close to the bottom of the fuse box(or floor board) i did this so i can still listen to the subs with the car off u can use the ignition fuse but they will only work when the key is in the one position anything else just hit me up

Yep, thats exactly how i did it and it works swell!

so i do everything normal? power and ground for amp? remote wire to a hot ignition wire, a line out converter into the 6x9's-i don't need to bypass factory amps or anything? sounds too easy thanks

yeah i just want to confirm everything as well...so power to the battery, a ground, remote to a hot fuse, then what runs to the back of the head? and are the cables going to the head all thats left? thanks

most people were using a line out converter. you basically splice it into your rear 6x9's and it gives you the rca plugs to go into your amp. no need to get to the headunit. heres a couple you can use
http://www.gigaweb.com/files/productsimages/BL/loc80.jpg
scosche loc80
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/assets/ProductImages/MTX_RE-Q.jpg
mtx-req

i added two rockfordfosegate t1's 12's wired to a 1000.1 memphins monoblock d amp i didnt want to replace the head unit, so i got the rca converter and got the wires from the rears 6x9's i ran a four gauge wire for the batt to the truck. you will never get the same bass out of a stock unit then from buying a new deck but you will lose all your controls.:beer:

like it has been said on here it's really simple to do i did it to mine before i upgraded the headunit. just go to any place that sells audio stuff or you can even go to wal-mart and pick up a converter which will splice into one of your 6x9's in the rear deck and it will take that signal and give you your rca cable connection for the amp. then all you have to do is run the amp wires (power, ground and remote) like you would for any hook up. i found that the fuse box under the hood was the best place to find a switched 12v for my amp and then just run it and your power wire through the firewall through the big rubber grommet where the wires go into the cab. like whiteg6 said the stock radio is going to play a big role on your system but i was still pleased with mine. i would also getting if you dont have one is an external bass controle knob so you can controle your bass on the subs from the drivers seat and can turn the bass down on your HU so you dont hurt your other speakers.

Warning!!! I've upgraded/ modded my system. My new setup was 4 guage from the battery to the amp 1 ported box with JL 12w3v3 and JL 500.1 amp I used the Hi-Low converter with built in remote amp turn on.
DO NOT USE the Hi-Low converter with remote turn on if your hooking to your 6x9 deck speakers!! The sub back feeds into the 6x9's after turning off the car causing the feedback to go through the Hi-Low converter back to the sub. This causes a endless loop of loud rumble. I then cut that wire and ran the remote to the factory amp remote wire. Dosn't happen to everyone, but I think I made granny wet herself.


PS. I think the re-Q is good, but I don't know how it will work on the monsoon system. Being that the output from the factory amp is split between Highs, Mids, Lows. Was wondering if you tied the re-Q to the Low wires from the factory amp if it would still work right. I say this because I thought the re-Q needs Highs, Mids, Lows all on the same wire... Example. If you turned up the volume, and the "lows" from that amp is limited on volume as you turned it up, would the re-Q think that the volume just isn't turned up?

im pretty sure all that just confused the hell out of me ha...to waterfowler- so when i splice into my rear 6x9's what cables am i taking from them to go into the converter? or rather what were the cables leading to originally before I lead them to the amp? and only one rear speaker or both?

also i've been browsing anywhere i could think that sells audio and i found this anyone give me some opinions or advice on that whole set? shipping tacks on an extra $90 just fyi

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Sony+-+Xplod+12%22+Dual+Loaded+Ported+Subwoofer+Enclosur e+-+Black/9714644.p?id=1218156776229&skuId=9714644

click here (http://www.crutchfield.com/app/Support/KnowledgeBase.aspx?ifs=pontiac%20g6)for the wiring diagram for our speakers. I only spliced into one side for my subs. but i used the re-q and it only had one set of "in" wires for the sub. if that makes sense. i splced them right before they go into the rear speakers.

is splicing just as simple as removing the coating for the wire and attaching the new wire to it and sealing it back up whether it be with tape or something else?

yup thats it.

great thanks alot for your help man appreciate it im gunna have to gather some supplies now ha

i blew out my stock radio playing when i bought some new 6x9's so i bought a poineer radio and i sliced into the power wires from the stock radio and ran all the speaker wires my self to the doors and back deck.. the stock monsoon amp is no longer in use in my car. I also ran my own wires for my new amp which is a rockford fosgate p2 amp and subs not sure if i should hook my stock amp back up any suggestions hit me up at Cameron0901@gmail.com

I used these to splice in.
http://www.gordonrichards.net/300zx/foglight.splice.connector.jpg

okay so i've been refeering to this thread for awhile for instructions, so i bought a 15" alpine type r sub and 1000 watt alpine amp. i bought a 4 farad capacitor and a 5000 watt earthquake wireing kit for the amp. So im going to use a schosche line converter like everyone else so for that all im supposed to do is take 2 positive wires to the positive side on the speaker and 2 to the negative side and then put them into the 1,2,3,4 wholes in pairs correct? also where is the best place to put the remote wire? I was wondering if i can put it in the back fuze box or if i should go to the one on the passenger front side. any extra tips are well needed and appreciated i barely know what im doing but have a friend helping me. will also need lotsa tips for capacitor please and thank you everyone :)

i know nothing about the capacitor but i believe one of the guys earlier on in this thread had one so if didn't explain it i'm sure you can shoot him a message. As for using the LOC, you splice into the 4 wires coming out of the rear 6x9's (2 on each speaker). you're loc should have a diagram on which color lines up with which wire on the rear speakers ya gotta get it right. best place for a remote would be any fuse that goes live when you turn the key to any position (at least thats what i did so i could still listen to my subs even when my engine isn't running) - i put it in the windshield wiper fuse its somewhere in the passenger kickpanel box. run your remote and power up one of the side runners or the remote on the passenger side and the pwoer going up the driver side out the firewall to the battery. everything else is pretty much plug n play hope this helps ya out

i know nothing about the capacitor but i believe one of the guys earlier on in this thread had one so if didn't explain it i'm sure you can shoot him a message. As for using the LOC, you splice into the 4 wires coming out of the rear 6x9's (2 on each speaker). you're loc should have a diagram on which color lines up with which wire on the rear speakers ya gotta get it right. best place for a remote would be any fuse that goes live when you turn the key to any position (at least thats what i did so i could still listen to my subs even when my engine isn't running) - i put it in the windshield wiper fuse its somewhere in the passenger kickpanel box. run your remote and power up one of the side runners or the remote on the passenger side and the pwoer going up the driver side out the firewall to the battery. everything else is pretty much plug n play hope this helps ya out

thanks man but one question for the line converter most people it seems are just using one speaker should i use both back speakers instead? but okay rest seems straight forward then ill do the same as the windshield whiper fuse then too.

i used both

Hello so i was going to get everything set up with my g6 but i hit a problem with my firewall. so i found the little plugs by the brake pedal but when i cut the rubber theres hard plastic in behind am i supposed to drill through it or is there another way plz help fast!

i drilled then resealed with silicone once the project was 100% done

I managed to stuff 4awg wire through the grommet that the hood release goes through. Didn't need to cut anything

i drilled then resealed with silicone once the project was 100% done

Thanks alot to you and the others that commented i will probably do this most likely but im gonna look for that grommet to see if i can stuff my 4 gauge into it too. seems tricky tho and what one did u drill through the hole farthest left or the middle one?

I drilled right through the firewall anywhere you want to

There so i Drilled through the firewall and got all the wiring and everything done in my car i have been hitting alot of problems for it. I wanted to run the wire under the trim but i found out u have to go all the way up to the freaken seat belt to take it off so i just kinda pushed it under the trim at the bottom. I also shorted out my battery so i have to buy a whole new battery because im borrowing my friends right now. The original car battery is only 525 CCA my new one is going to be 950CCA so quite a jump hopefully this one can put up with the sub. So i have a 1000 WATT pyle Driver amp that puts out 600 watt rms when bridged to my 4ohm 15" alpine type R. I have a 4 farad capacitor so it is plenty big to keep up with the power but i am worried about the alternator. With a big battery and big capacitor what do you guys think about the Alternator do you think it will keep up? Also i installed a Sony CDX gt 710 with the turbo 2 metra kit and I LOVE it! it look's so nice and makes the stock sound so much better. If anyone needs tips on that i can help

for the trim, the easiest thing i found was just to pull it away from the doors and b pillar, but dont worry about the piece higher up on the b-pillar. you will have enough room like this to run the wire. I also took part of a clothes hanger and taped it along the end of the wire to make it easier to push through. What size wire are you running?

I think you may run into problems with the alternator, but im sure you'll easily notice if you are having issues

for the trim, the easiest thing i found was just to pull it away from the doors and b pillar, but dont worry about the piece higher up on the b-pillar. you will have enough room like this to run the wire. I also took part of a clothes hanger and taped it along the end of the wire to make it easier to push through. What size wire are you running?

I think you may run into problems with the alternator, but im sure you'll easily notice if you are having issues

yah i just gave up on trying to run it through the trim. and damn even with only a 1000 watt amp you think it will be hard on the alternator? damn i was hopeing it wouldnt be to big. Because 1000 watts divided by the 12 volt current is 83.3 Amps, Also not sure if this works but the 600 watt rms for the 4ohm divided by 12 is only 50 amps. I believe the car's alternator puts out 90 amps but i could be wrong

i thought it was more like 115A but i really have no idea. I'm currently running a 1600W amp at 800-900W for my sub and a 127W at 60-70W amp for my speakers and have minimal light dim on the stock alternator and stock battery

Oh and to answer your other question my power and ground are 4 gauge wire, and my speaker wire to sub i think is 16 or 12? I also have another question i ran outa 4 gauge wire so one side of the capacitor for power is going to be 4 gauge and the ground will only be like 6 or 8 gauge? does that matter or do i have to buy more 4 gauge?

buy more 4 gauge. because then you could be trying to push too much power through the smaller ground wire, which could potentially cause it to catch fire

i thought it was more like 115A but i really have no idea. I'm currently running a 1600W amp at 800-900W for my sub and a 127W at 60-70W amp for my speakers and have minimal light dim on the stock alternator and stock battery

oh if your running a 1600 watt and another amp for speakers i should be good with big battery and only 1000 watt amp. i may look at a 1600 watt one too cuz it pumps out 900 watt rms for the big 15" type-r but i think 1000 will be good enough for me. You are probably right with the 115 amps i was just takeing a stab at the 90 amps because i heard vehicles newer then 2004 are around 90 amps

if you're only going to push 900W just stick with your 1000W amp. No sense wastin money just for the sake of it;)

i thought it was more like 115A but i really have no idea. I'm currently running a 1600W amp at 800-900W for my sub and a 127W at 60-70W amp for my speakers and have minimal light dim on the stock alternator and stock battery

Alternator ratings are al follows: (rated/load test output)
'05 - 128/89
'06 (all trims) - 125/87
'07 - 2.4, 3.5, 3.9 - 125/87
'07 - 3.6 - 155/108
'08+ - ?

I have an 06. A 1600 watt amp and 2 12" subs. I saw some posts on here about it being too much on the battery and alternator. I have a Pioneer double din headunit too, if that makes a difference. But was wondering if it was too much on my alternator?

If the car is having a problem, the battery logo on the dash should be appearing.

does the dash feel hot, feel the face by the ac buttons...if thats hot after a drive then yes your pushing to much power through there.

in my car my deck heats up and restarts...

does the dash feel hot, feel the face by the ac buttons...if thats hot after a drive then yes your pushing to much power through there.

in my car my deck heats up and restarts...

What Size of amp are you running that makes it heat up that much? and do you have a capacitor? and for Tay Tay have you checked out if your car heats up with your 1600 watt amp? Our cars have a pretty big alternator, if you have a decent size battery to take all the recharging we should be fine. If you keep the lights off in the car and keep the dash dim down try and reserve as much power as possible and you should be fine but let me know how hot your car is getting because I am most likely going to get a 1600 watt amp aswell.

i got a 1600W amp and it barely heats up. Just depends on the one you get because my 4channel amp heat up alot.

i got a 1600W amp and it barely heats up. Just depends on the one you get because my 4channel amp heat up alot.

what about light diming?

there is some. but its very minimal. i only notice it when im parked close to a wall or something. btw, your dash shouldnt be getting hot if your amp is in your trunk. seems as though something else is wrong.

there is some. but its very minimal. i only notice it when im parked close to a wall or something. btw, your dash shouldnt be getting hot if your amp is in your trunk. seems as though something else is wrong.

My dash (stereo and AC buttons) has heated up ever since I got my 06 G6 GT. That's with stock everything.

hey guys i need some serious help picking out an amp for my 15" alpine type R, it calls for 750 RMS and i am on a very tight tight budget. i have found a few and am worried.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_25235_Lanzar-MAXP1200.html

theres that one it says it puts out 900 watt RMS at 2 ohms which would be perfect and it has 3 30 amp fuses so its not lieing about the 900 watt rms,

I also found a used kenwood 9104D but i was told kenwoods have problems like crazy about pulln way to much power wreckin ur alternator and blowing subs, over heating etc. and the kenwood is double the price

How tight is your budget? The first one seems pretty good. Hard to recommend you other amps without a budget ;)

How tight is your budget? The first one seems pretty good. Hard to recommend you other amps without a budget ;)

ha true sorry man, my budget is 150 dollars total so like after shipping and border fees, i know its pretty low but im a poor 17 year old with a nice first car lol.

I also threw my Sub and box up on Kijiji for sale or trade, and have been offered 12W1v2-4 its a 12" JL sub with slim box, or 2 10" kaption Cl's + 100$ what do you guys think? i need some help deciding or if i should just buy an amp for it

the W1 isnt any better than your type r so i would just keep it.

with your tight budget you best bets for an amp are likely one in the link you had. Or something like these:

Power Acoustik CPT1 1500 (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_27847_Power-Acoustik-CPT1-1500.html)
Kenwood KAC 8104D (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_11796_Kenwood-KAC-8104D.html)
Power-Acoustik CPT1 2000 (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_27848_Power-Acoustik-CPT1-2000.html)

If you'd be willing to spend $150 before taxes and all that stuff, i would recommend this amp. Hifonics HFi1000D (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_22705_Hifonics-HFi1000D.html). IMO its worth the extra $$ over the other ones i have given links for. It will be a better quality amp aswell.

If you want a different sub, i would just wait a bit and buy a JL 12W3 when you can afford it. My buddy has one and it pounds plus sounds amazing.

the W1 isnt any better than your type r so i would just keep it.

with your tight budget you best bets for an amp are likely one in the link you had. Or something like these:

Power Acoustik CPT1 1500 (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_27847_Power-Acoustik-CPT1-1500.html)
Kenwood KAC 8104D (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_11796_Kenwood-KAC-8104D.html)
Power-Acoustik CPT1 2000 (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_27848_Power-Acoustik-CPT1-2000.html)

If you'd be willing to spend $150 before taxes and all that stuff, i would recommend this amp. Hifonics HFi1000D (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_22705_Hifonics-HFi1000D.html). IMO its worth the extra $$ over the other ones i have given links for. It will be a better quality amp aswell.

If you want a different sub, i would just wait a bit and buy a JL 12W3 when you can afford it. My buddy has one and it pounds plus sounds amazing.


what about the 2 10 inch kaption subs and 100 bucks? but thanks for all the other stuff ill take a look

So i took a look at all those amps the first 2 cant power it, that power acoustik apparently over heats like crazy. and The hifonics would come to 200 bucks so ill look into it tho seems decent , better brand thanks man

no problem. although the hifonics is a little above your budget, it is definitely the best option without spending a bunch more

forgot to respond about those subs. i personally wouldnt go for them. At least not without hearing them first. I was reading some forums about them, and there seem to be some negative opinions on them. mostly about the quality not being so good and them not lasting long.

BTW. all of those amps i posted would work with your type r. i wouldnt have posted them if they wouldnt;)

forgot to respond about those subs. i personally wouldnt go for them. At least not without hearing them first. I was reading some forums about them, and there seem to be some negative opinions on them. mostly about the quality not being so good and them not lasting long.

BTW. all of those amps i posted would work with your type r. i wouldnt have posted them if they wouldnt;)

okay thanks then ill keep the alpine, and there out puts too small the amp and the sub would just heat up, better to over power then under power a sub

You're not going to pull anymore power than you've set the amp to put out. Just because your type r is 750w Rms doesnt mean you have to run it at 750w. Hell you could run it at 300w if you wanted. It isn't going to make a difference. Though it is better to have more power than your subs require, that way you don't set your gains too high and cause a clipped signal.

Thanks for the help man so i had my heart set on the hifonics amp about to buy it but then got offered 2 12" Alpine Type s's in a ported alpine box made for them, here it is http://london.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-auto-parts-tires-audio-GPS-2-12-alpine-subs-in-a-sloted-ported-box-W0QQAdIdZ244211580

what do you think? i could still buy the same hifonics amp to power them nicely im just not sure if the 15" would be better or the 2 older 12"s. Im looking for deep booming bass that rlly makes the car shake but i also dont know if our cars could hold 2 12"s

if your going to buy type s subs you might as well buy a cheap amp to go with them. those subs suck and it would be a huge downgrade compared to your type r. They are only 300W rms a piece, so both will be lower than your type r. trust me when i say you'll be more than happy with the type r for the amount bass it will produce.

our car can easily take 2 12's. you could fit 2 15's if you really wanted to.

okay thanks alot man its final then ill keep the 15" and order up that amp and make a video to show all the followers how it sounds. Thanks alot Dmanj!

No problem. Glad i could help!

Thanks for the help man so i had my heart set on the hifonics amp about to buy it but then got offered 2 12" Alpine Type s's in a ported alpine box made for them, here it is http://london.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-auto-parts-tires-audio-GPS-2-12-alpine-subs-in-a-sloted-ported-box-W0QQAdIdZ244211580

what do you think? i could still buy the same hifonics amp to power them nicely im just not sure if the 15" would be better or the 2 older 12"s. Im looking for deep booming bass that rlly makes the car shake but i also dont know if our cars could hold 2 12"s

I have two 12" in mine and actually still have quite a bit of trunk space. I'm not so sure that 2 15s would fit though. I was looking at 2 of them and the guy told me I'd have to get a custom box made and that's not gonna happen. I'm also a 16 year old with a low budget and nice car. Lol

2 15's will fit, there are a couple people one here that have it. Custom boxes are the way to go. They're cheaper (if you do it yourself, which is super easy), sound better and look alot better.

for the 2-15" u can get sigle boxes and put em in like tht....

I've been wanting to add some subs and an amp to my 6, but im face with the dilema that we all are... not loosing the DIC and/or paying out the ass for another HU and Metra kit... think about it a Metra kit is like 150 + a new HU lets say another 400 so like 500 alltogether!!! When most of us already have a decent sounding Monsoon HU.

I have read this thread and It makes sense and all, but why not use an epicenter of some sort instead of the reQ? I mean it's cheaper and you can control the bass using a second bass knob. In the last system I had, I had a soundstream bass enhancer installed (epicenter) and it was awesome... I got some serious bass even from spanish jamz!!! LOL

could always go with a simple lineout converter if you want subs

hell ya i got the two 15's in mine i had to build a custom box which was hard but cheap, just make sure you dynomat the shit out of the trunk (or get the roofing shit from home depot which is way cheaper and the same shit) because g6's rattle, also get some small clear tubing and slide it in the stunk seal to make it all more air tight. also if your gonna throw 15's in with the stock 6x9's expect the 6x9's to blow out eventually. im just looking for a new amp because this back up i have is not cuttin it :)

hell ya i got the two 15's in mine i had to build a custom box which was hard but cheap, just make sure you dynomat the shit out of the trunk (or get the roofing shit from home depot which is way cheaper and the same shit) because g6's rattle, also get some small clear tubing and slide it in the stunk seal to make it all more air tight. also if your gonna throw 15's in with the stock 6x9's expect the 6x9's to blow out eventually. im just looking for a new amp because this back up i have is not cuttin it :)

100% gaurentee you will never blow out your speakers because of subs. G6s will always rattle, no matter how much deafened you put on it

Yea true it will always rattle...I put double sided foam typ tape behind the licence plate to keep tht from rattlin so much but like he said it will always rattle...every car does...

the license plate is easy to not make rattle, just using tape like you did or using 4 screws (i believe there are 4 holes but i cant remember at the moment. what rattles is the bumper. because its made of plastic that flexes when it vibrates. if we had metal bumpers it wouldn't be a problem.

the license plate is easy to not make rattle, just using tape like you did or using 4 screws (i believe there are 4 holes but i cant remember at the moment. what rattles is the bumper. because its made of plastic that flexes when it vibrates. if we had metal bumpers it wouldn't be a problem.

Yea I put 4 screws but I thought sence I'm here ima jus put some double sided foam tape stuff jus so I dnt gotta do it later....yea it does also the top of truck rattles but I dnt really care...

really? mine doesnt. but i've also got a layer of deadener on it, so that helps. if you can figure out how to adjust the trunk latch so that it holds the lid down tighter that will help too.

U can always try tieing ur trunk down ahahahah......

Well i have officially finished my car off, i blew my old battery outa the car and replaced it with a 950CCA battery biggest battery i could fit in the little car got it for a snag of a price. I put a sony CDX gt 710ui or somethin like that in for the deck which sounds amazing and lights up beautifully, really brings the speakers alive too and i had to get the metra turbo 2 kit for the oil and trip and all that crap, but it all looks really cool the metra kits black is different from the rest of the dash but oh well it made the install nice and easy though even though it took me like 8 hours. I sold my 15" alpine because i need some trunk space and i thought it was to big and to hard on the alternator so i ended up picking up a 10" JL 10W3 with a 200RMS MTX pro blue thunder amp and this 10" pounds like mad! it sounds soo good i love JL it puts 15"s bass to shame. Doesen't distort at all either. So if anyone has any questions on how to install or anything like that let me know i will give you my best

I've been wanting to add some subs and an amp to my 6, but im face with the dilema that we all are... not loosing the DIC and/or paying out the ass for another HU and Metra kit... think about it a Metra kit is like 150 + a new HU lets say another 400 so like 500 alltogether!!! When most of us already have a decent sounding Monsoon HU.

I have read this thread and It makes sense and all, but why not use an epicenter of some sort instead of the reQ? I mean it's cheaper and you can control the bass using a second bass knob. In the last system I had, I had a soundstream bass enhancer installed (epicenter) and it was awesome... I got some serious bass even from spanish jamz!!! LOL

Alto of places now a day give you the metra kit cheap if you buy a deck from them like crutchfield i got a really nice deck and the metra kit was only 100 bucks if you live in the states its like 80 bucks there, but for taxes shipping everything all together it was like 406$ for a high end deck and metra kit, even that GM pac piece w,e its called is like 50 or 60 bucks so you might as well get the metra

I have two 12" in mine and actually still have quite a bit of trunk space. I'm not so sure that 2 15s would fit though. I was looking at 2 of them and the guy told me I'd have to get a custom box made and that's not gonna happen. I'm also a 16 year old with a low budget and nice car. Lol

yah im the same as you lol im 17 with a nice car that im paying out the A$$ on for insurance im payn 340$ a month how much are you payn? and yah if i was rich then id have an upgraded alternator and the best subs and crap in it but sadly im not at all lol so i make the best with the money i have and am quite happy with whats in the car now and it impresses alot of people.

does anyone know the max height a subwoofer box can be for a 2006 pontiac g6 sedan 3.5l v6?

14in. However you could just go measure it yourself...

yes it may be 14 inches high but you wont be able to fit it in very well in the little opening at the trunk and behind the seats is closer to 13 inches. I had a very hard time trying to get a 15" alpine in so i gave up

Actually the area right behind the seats is 14 inches. I know because my box is 14in and it fits tight to the seats.

Hello all! Great thread you have here.

I just wanted to share my process on how to run 4ga. power wire through the existing hood release gromet in the firewall. I did not want to drill any new holes in the firewall, even though that would have been way easier. I'm in a 08' GT coupe, but I don't think that really makes a difference.

I first straightened out a wire coat hanger. I filed down the end so it would not snag or tear the gromet when feeding it through the first couple times. I liberally applied vaseline (insert joke here....HAHA) as lube for both the coat hanger & 4ga. wire. I'm not sure if this is the best non caustic lubricant, so please check with a pro before using.

Once the coat hanger is run into the engine bay, be sure it wont pull on any AC lines or other cables/wires. You will need to apply a bit of pull on this coat hanger to get the 4ga wire through the gromet. We used a large set of vicegrips after bending a loop on this end.

Now snip off the end of the coat hanger still in the passenger compartment so it makes a sharp angle. Create a hook bend so it will go through roughly 2/3 of the 4ga wire. I pressed the hanger into the 4ga wire roughly 3/4" from its end. This helps to keep the hanger from ripping out of the 4ga wire as you apply tension. See pics below. I then ran some electrical tape around the hanger & 4ga wire to keep it all together when pulling through. I then applied a bunch of vaseline over the outside of the tape & down the 4ga wire.

Now time to pull her through! I had my "Never excited to help me" wife pull on the hanger as I pushed on the wire from inside. I have an archery arrow puller I used to push with, but jar openers or anything very grippy will also work. Just be sure not to lube on them.

It took us 2 tries to get her fed through. The hanger ripped out of the 4ga on the first attempt, and I then got yelled at by my helper. It's only b/c she almost punched herself in the face with the vicegrips when the hanger broke loose. Ooops!!

Now time for the gear ;)

I just ordered the re-Q5. I'll post pic's once I get her installed.
Amp is a Alpine MRD-M1005.
1.2 Farad Boss capacitor
For now I'm just going to use 1 sealed Type-R 12, but I will be going to a better sub once I sell my 2 type-R 12s and their ported enclosure.

I'm thinking one Alpine Type X 12, but I am open to suggestions.

Cheers!!
J

There was also a bigger gromet up and to the right of the hood release on my '10 g6. Idk if its on the older models but it made everything much easier.

There was also a bigger gromet up and to the right of the hood release on my '10 g6. Idk if its on the older models but it made everything much easier.

Its there on my 09 aswell.

Its there on my 09 aswell.

I don't even want to look again on my 08, as I will feel like a real DOPE if I have that larger gromet as well!!:bawl:



Question for you guys:

What single sealed 12" sub would you recommend for this amp? I'm looking for sound quality over pure power. $500 is about as much as I want to spend.

Alpine MRD-M1005
Mono subwoofer car amplifier
500W x 1 RMS (4ohm, 12.0V, 1% THD+N)
700W x 1 RMS (2ohm, 12.0V, 1% THD+N)
700W x 1 RMS (4ohm, 14.4V, 1% THD+N)
1.000W x 1 RMS (2ohm, 14.4V, 1% THD+N)
Max. 1.800W x 1
S/N Ratio 90dBA
Internal, variable-speed cooling fan
Amp Link for single-cable hookup to compatible Alpine receivers
STAR Topology for cleaner sound
Bass Engine® features:
Low-pass digital filter, 30-200 Hz, with a selectable 12 or 24 dB/octave slope
Selectable subsonic filter (off, 15Hz, or 30 Hz)
Parametric EQ variable from 30-160 Hz, ±12 dB
Bass Compensator enhances low-end definition
Top-mounted digital control center with cover
CEA-2006 Compliant
MOSFET power supply and output stages
Preamp outputs
Time correction 0-10 milliseconds in 0.1ms steps
Phase adjustment 0-180
Turn-on delay
Requires 4-gauge power and ground leads and 80 amp fuse
Extra-large terminals
Fuse rating: 20A x 4
Dimensions: 13"W x 2-5/16"H x 8-11/16"D


Thanks!!:beer:

I'd probably go with a JL 12W6, or if you can find one an Image Dynamics IDQ 12

Just a couple points of what my system build criteria are:

1.Keeping the stock headunit in my 08 G6 GT with the Monsoon stereo is a must!
2. I will be replacing all speakers & adding aftermarket amps, as well as a nasty sub.

This being said, I needed to find a line out converter that supports mulit-channel A/V outputs. (Front, Rear, & Sub ) After some research, and speaking with the company, I decided to go with the MTX Re-Q5. It was about $90 off amazon.

http://www.reqsound.com/

THIS WAS A BIG MISTAKE!!!

I do not recommend this product. I spoke with cust. support techs twice before purchasing the product to verify it's compatibility with our monsoon system. One tech recommend I tie into speaker wires going into the the monsoon amp, while the other tech said to tie into the output wires from the monsoon amp. This should have been my sign.

So I buy the unit & install it exactly as their instructions say. I tapped into the output wires on the monsoon amp......NOTHING!! So I then try tapping into the wires coming from the HU..nothing!!! WTF?!?!?

I then call Re-Q support again explaining my installation, where the guy tells me there is special instructions for installing it into our monsoon system. ARE YOU KIDDING ME??? You have to connect the front speaker output from out HU to the rear speaker inputs on the RE-Q5. I would have never figured this out.

This did get a signal for the sub output, but what about when I want signals for the front & rear channels?? Will they be backwards? I don't know, and I'm not keeping the unit to find out. It has been returned to Amazon. Sorry for the rant, but I wanted to share in case others of you are trying to create the same type of system.


Upon further research, as well as asking some fellas over on the caraudio.com forum, this is the unit I am most likely purchasing:

http://www.audiocontrol.com/t34/17612/250786/OEM-Integration/Line-Output-Converter-with-Auxiliary-Input----LC7.html

A plus feature of this converter is it also has adjustable gain control of your sub in case your mono amp does not. It also has Aux input with gain control of that input as well.

Edit:

I just got off the phone with an AudioControl tech, and he highly recommends going with their latest & greatest unit, the LCQ-1. THis unit has the Accubass feature, which the LC7 does not. This negates the factory roll off of bass our stereos have. Unfortunately it's $300 jeez!! Time to do more research I guess...

http://www.audiocontrol.com/t34/17612/712451/OEM-Integration/LCQ--1----Six-Channel-Line-Output-Converter-with-Equalization-and-AccuBASS.html

Anoyne have any experience with AudioControl products?