Has anyone had their roters warp yet? I just started to notice it last week. I can feel it from the seat but not in the brake petal yet so it must not be too bad.
I have had two instances where I really nailed the brakes. The first time a deer ran out and i slammed them on but I didn't notice anything a few days after. The second time a guy making a left turn, started his turn, cleared my lane, realized he was going to the wrong driveway and then swerved back into my lane while I was going 65 and I had about 30 yards of room to stop.
I wish I had room to install one of those train horns from hornblasters.com. :D
Anyways....It seems to have started after the 2nd incident. I rotated my tires this weekend and the front roters look like they have been on fire but the rears look like brand new.

yup, they warped after a few months, then the rears rusted and pitted. Both times the dealer resurfaced them under warranty.

They are pretty small and thin, a couple of good hard stops from highway speeds could possibly do it alright... I haven't had any problems out of mine so far but In WV where you are constantly up and down hills I look for it any time to happen. If you have had the front tires off and they were replaced using an air wrench, it could have "started" then too. I never have understood why a mechanic would use those at full speed, its almost like they pretend they are in a pit crew. :eek:

Yep... all my fault though...a few high speed stops did my rotors in.

Never had a problem with the G6, however I had a 99 GA and every 3 months had to have rotors re-surfaced and break pads. Always covered under warranty and could never figure out what was causing it to happen, no hard breaking or anything like that. :rolleyes:

The dealer should do more than resurface them, they should just put on new ones. I did notice that the front roters appear to be quite thin. The pads look like brand new yet so I doubt ill be replacing those anytime soon. As far as taking the wheels off, I always do my own work on the car and always hand tighten everything so I doubt that caused it. The tires were last rotated at 6000 miles and the warpage happened between 11,000-12,000 miles.

Do drilled roters handle heat better or do they just slice through the pads faster? Working in Ann Arbor I have to drive around first class idiots so the brakes get used a lot. :(

Both, your pads will wear quicker, but they will dissapate heat better and will have less brake fade.

Ann Arbor you say.. .sorry to hear about the Fire Fighter loss you guys experienced up that way. :( Truly Sad.

Ann Arbor you say.. .sorry to hear about the Fire Fighter loss you guys experienced up that way. :( Truly Sad.

Yeah, I-94 and 23 are deathtraps in this area. There are so many stupid drivers around here. I swear the richer they are the dumber they are.
Last year I think we had a 120 car pileup on I-94 due to Fog. Its getting to be an annual event :)
http://www.mlive.com/news/aanews/index.ssf?/base/news-16/113716687216180.xml&coll=2
Here is the story.

I am a Fire Fighter here in Albany.. that has been all over firehouse.com recently. :( Sad to think of how easily that could have been avoided. :(

My wife's G6 GT has 24K miles on it and the rotors are warped. I called the service dept today and they said no one there could tell me if it was covered under warranty or not! They said to bring it in but there's a $90 daignostic fee!
Does anyone know what the after market rotor PN is? I went to NAPA & Summit but they all list a part that has an electronic suspension control. I don't recall seeing that option on the wife's car.

my rotors warped after just 13000 miles, i took it in to the service dept. and they say that the vibration was caused due to lack of tire pressure. The tires were up to stated pressure if that tells you anything about the service dept at the dealership

Well add another to the warped rotors, my G6 sedan has almost 20,000 miles on it and just had the rotors resurfaced, if it happens again I'm going to tell them to replace them.

Hi all, funny I happened upon this thread tonight....
I'm going to be taking my car in this week as I'm getting a nasty rattle from the rotars which I CAN feel right through the break pedal.
I have approx 42k Km on the car so I'm assuming it wont be under any warranties.

I'll try to remember to let you all know what I find out.

Cheers.

mine are deff. warped already but ive also put on 13k miles in 5 months of owning the car, they should deff improve on the breaking system for the upcomming model years

add another warped rotors to the list.29,000 on mine.anyone know of any good after market set ups [brake pads and rotors for the g6.thanks :confused:

No warpage yet, although I anticipate it before 20-25K, and here's why. It has been really hot and humid here in Dixie, and maybe it is just more noticeable with the 18" wheels that allow a lot of the rotors to be seen, but I have never seen rust form so quickly on the rotors as I have since getting my G6. Seriously, within a few hours of driving it, the rotors are covered in surface rust again. Methinks that removing this rust daily by driving (and braking) will cause the pads and the rotors to wear more quickly. Almost like turning the rotors ever so slightly every time you drive the car, an if they are on the thin side to start with, might result in premature failure of the rotors to dissipate heat and cause warp. I guess I'll just have to save up for that climate-controlled garage...

Agreed, same situation with my 2006 coupe in Kentucky...rust build up and removal daily. I just hit 30K miles this weekend, and I see several items I am going to be bringing up to the deal prior to my warranty expiration.

My rotors started vibrating at around 14K miles. I replaced them about a month ago with PowerSlot Cryo rotors and Akebono Ceramic pads.

I am now on my 3rd set of rotors. I decided to go cheap this time and bought the Duralast rotors from Autozone for $23 each. Front ceramic pads were $36. From what I can tell, the factory pads were destroying any rotors I used.

I took my 07 g6 in last month for warped rotors instead of replacing them they turned the they told me pads have a 24000 mile warranty and rotors have a 30000 thought every thing on the car had a 36000 mile bumper to bumper warrnaty

Well guys and gals just to straighten everyone out on this issue there is no such thing as a warped rotor. What happens is the pad transfers to the rotor and causes the surface to be uneven. When you stop from a high speed and hold the brakes all the way to a dead stop it makes a pile of pad. If your stops cause the nose to dip you are going to have trouble. All stops should be smooth and even and with less pressure right at the end of the stop on the pedal if you want your brakes to be smooth.

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml

Whether they're called warped rotors or not, I currently need my breaks fixed. I have "warped rotors" and the vibration through the petal. This is mainly due to high speed breaking on the interstate in Nashville (Crashville if you will)... and things like that. I try to break evenly otherwise.

My question is... how can you tell if your breakpads/rotors have been changed/turned before? If something has been changed and it's not factory, then I guess there may be a brand name to give it away? I'm just wondering bc I am about to hit 60K on my 06 g6 gt and I bought it with 21K miles. I've just figured nothing had been changed ever on my car, but maybe something was changed around 20K. If so, I've still gotten 40K out of my current rotors and pads, so that's pretty good compared to what i've been reading on here. My cavalier's break pads and rotors seemed to always be going bad.

I am now on my 3rd set of rotors. I decided to go cheap this time and bought the Duralast rotors from Autozone for $23 each. Front ceramic pads were $36. From what I can tell, the factory pads were destroying any rotors I used.

Well the factory pads are semi-metallic, which is better than ceramic. Ceramics dont cause any dust, that is all that i find the difference. I believe the factory rotors suck big time!

The rotors are far too small for this car. Call rotor warp, uneven pad wear, whatever...the damn things are to small....:beer:

The best answer: By good quality aftermarket pads and rotors. Pontiac's suck. I, like everyone else, had the same problem and am starting too again already because I only replaced my pads...time to get some thicker drilled (and maybe slotted) rotors.

The best answer: By good quality aftermarket pads and rotors. Pontiac's suck. I, like everyone else, had the same problem and am starting too again already because I only replaced my pads...time to get some thicker drilled (and maybe slotted) rotors.

you are having problem again with your stock rotor and pads? or your having the same issue with your aftermarket pads and rotors?

Same rotors, different pads....I am more than willing to bet that I once I replace the rotors too, the problem will go away.

Same rotors, different pads....I am more than willing to bet that I once I replace the rotors too, the problem will go away.

please let me know if your problems go away when you have installed your aftermarket rotors and pads.

mine are warpped. But the car still stops very well. I'm just going to upgrade to better ones when the time comes.

Changed mine at around 47k...Got the R1's w/Ceramic Akebono pads.
Very happy so far and about to pass 80k miles!!

Pix was a cell phone...sorry for the quality.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e386/lampooner/018.jpg

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e386/lampooner/016.jpg

Nice, that's what I'm talking about....the stock rotors are crap.

so can you explain what the point of the strut bar is if you didn't get lowering springs?

The strut tower bar "stiffens" the front end by linking the two points together. The body and frame of the car with move slightly independently of eachother because of each wheel is, in essence, independent of the other which puts torque and force onto one side of the car and not the other. The bar links the two and all the feedback and force is transferred more evenly among the body/frame/wheels.

Yeah, I-94 and 23 are deathtraps in this area. There are so many stupid drivers around here. I swear the richer they are the dumber they are.
Last year I think we had a 120 car pileup on I-94 due to Fog. Its getting to be an annual event :)
http://www.mlive.com/news/aanews/index.ssf?/base/news-16/113716687216180.xml&coll=2
Here is the story.

If we had left from snowmobiling when we were susposed to we would have been involved in it. but we left like 1 1/2 hours late so we hit the traffic

mine are warpped. But the car still stops very well. I'm just going to upgrade to better ones when the time comes.

I'm only at 21K and I've just had my "warped rotors" resurfaced for the second time. I'm so tired of the drama that this car has created.

In looking back though thats pretty much all I really upgraded that "went wrong" on the car. The rest of my many Mods were not necessary. Sooo I think Im doing pretty good.

PS...A little off topic but I took all the paint off my strut bar so Its not that color anymore. :beer:

I have bad news... the rotors are crap... just put on some aftermarket rotors... (slotted or drilled) its an easy install

I would be driving downhill and breaking lightly and can feel the steering column and the break jiggling. I figured it had to do with the rotors even before I came and read it here. Interesting fact though I have 63k on my car, and I'm sure they've never been resurfaced. how much does that usually cost? I"ll probably have it done upon having my new tires installed.

I went to Pep Boys and I think it was $20 a pair... Its not really worth it... the stock rotors are really bad with heat. Just spend $200 on new rotors and pads. Its well worth it

I went to Pep Boys and I think it was $20 a pair... Its not really worth it... the stock rotors are really bad with heat. Just spend $200 on new rotors and pads. Its well worth it

I know you keep saying to replace the stock rotors and pads, and your also saying wither drilled or slotted ones.

BUT what I want to know is what if you replace the rotors that are aftermarket, but not drilled or slotted? How well do those work? or will they warp as well

It seems like a lot of people don't drive so well... and/OR have really crazy driving conditions. My brakes lasted a long time before having any problems. I should have done something to them before I did, so considering that, nothing was needed for my brakes til around 55K or so... and it wasn't bad then. And it didn't seem that anything had ever been done to them by the previous owner and they def. still had the original pads and rotors... but even if the previous owner did do brake work, I still put over 35K before needing anything done. Most of that 35K was Nashville rush hour with terrible drivers and sudden braking for no particular reasons... High speed braking is where my problems first started. It was lot of hard braking and my everyday driving was city-driving.

My old cavalier... that was a different story.

I mean, I trust to get slotted or drilled rotors and I will definitely always have ceramic brake pads, but there is a lot of drama on here over the stock brakes/rotors/etc and I think part of it is driving (actions/conditions) and luck. Maybe some rotors weren't manufactured well, but I'm sorry, not everyone is having to work on their brakes at 20K or whatever. My sister has a 07 G6 GT and she drives kinda crazy (yet cautious;) ) , but all she's had to do is get some dust out of 'em bc of a squeak. she's at 25K. we'll see.

Brake Drama? :argue: