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Loud clicking from under dash

77K views 26 replies 12 participants last post by  Mike Sayese 
#1 ·
Here is the long version:

I've run into a VERY annoying problem it started about a month ago when the weather was really cold. I noticed that there was a really loud clicking coming from below the passenger side dash, where the blower motor is. This only happened on days that where colder than -20. Naturally I suspected the blower motor, so I turned the blower off; no change. Then I pulled relays and fuses pertaining to the blower motor; still no change. Then I pulled apart the lower dash to see if I could isolate it, well its coming from the black box where the blower motor was. I googled and googled looking for something related to this problem, several people I talked to, including mechanics were rather stumped. They often mentioned it could possibly be an actuator but if it were the actuators, the climate control knobs the rate of the ticking should change, it did not. So I started pulling wire connections, with again no solution. Then today I found a really small wire in a place that was really hard to get at I pulled it and magically the sound stopped. This wire was attached to the actuator, (Actuator GM# 15842338 ACD# 15-73513)

So my questions now are:
a.) should I bother fixing it when everything works properly with it unplugged?
b.)If I replace the actuator, will that actually fix the problem or was that just coincidence that those wires stopped the noise? (does it power anything else?)
c.)how easy would this fix be to do myself, or how expensive should this fix be if I bring it into a shop? the dash is already apart so...?


I couldn't find a G6 diagram but this Colbalt diagram is similar. The wire was attached to callout #37 in the top left. This diagram would be looking towards the rear of the vehicle from in front of the blower motor assembly.
DIAGRAM REFERENCE
 
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#2 ·
More Info

Well upon further consultation, I have managed to find out that this is the actuator for the air recirculation door. Hardly a priority fix. I also located an ebay actuator for $29.99 here.

Now the problem is removing it. Has anyone done this before? It looks like a tight space to work.

Looking forward from the passenger seat, this is what you see directly in front of where the glove box would be. It is the blower motor assembly.


This is a close up slightly to the right of the previous picture. This shows the wire that I removed from the actuator. (LOOK FOR THE BLUE THING)

Sorry for the crappy cell phone pics.
 
#3 ·
You are bound and determined to find that knock lol. You find that annoying? My G6 makes a ticking sound when its in park because the flex plate in the transmission wasn't molded right. Has a tech bulletin and all, but its not under warranty so I'm not paying lol.

Enough about me. If you need any diagrams, just ask. I have ALLDATA.
 
#5 ·
Dan023, there is no transmission dipstick on the G6. You have to remove a bolt from the transmission and manually check the fluid level.

Devriesd, can you try and take more pictures. There are three actuators for the HVAC and I narrowed it down to two. I would just keep the wires plugged in and deal with the clicking sound unless it is unnecessarily loud.
 
#6 ·
Devriesd, can you try and take more pictures.
All I have is a cell phone cam, and it doesn't really focus to well on close up shots. My second post is the best I can get with the lighting in there without a better camera.

There are three actuators for the HVAC and I narrowed it down to two. I would just keep the wires plugged in and deal with the clicking sound unless it is unnecessarily loud.
Oh its definitely loud. It sounds like someone is doing a drum roll on the inside of my dash. After driving to the city last weekend (3.5 hr drive) I nearly went insane!

I'm glad I've isolated it to the recirculation door/actuator. But I haven't gotten any further than that. I just unplugged it, every thing works as per usual except for the actual recirculation feature. Its no big deal as the recirculation is really only handy for the A/C in the summer. And I perfer the windows down anyway.:D

But of course now that I get one thing figured out something else goes wrong. Murphy's law right! The bolts on the exhaust flex pipe have sheared off. I sound like a ricer with a bad cherry bomb exhaust. It's just been one thing after another this week lol!
 
#8 ·
Part number would be awesome! I should have read your response sooner, I revived then jacked an old thread on here for it lol

also trying to track down a diagram with an index, so far this is what I found. I don't quite know where it came apart though, its either bolt #7 or #10.
 
#10 ·
Awesome! thanks!
 
#12 ·
have you done anything else on the recirculation door/actuator issue? my g/f's car has the same exact problem.. and i also narrowed it down to that. Its been like this for a few months.. and I havent found ANYTHING about it.. until I found this thread today! its annoying and loud as hell. thanks for the wire information... that is getting unplugged right away to at least stop the noise. but would still like to fix it! now i have to go fix her leaking pano roof tubes... nothing like driving in a car that rains on the inside.. and ticks like you wouldnt believe...i would love to have a few words with the people who designed this monstrosity!
 
#13 ·
I guess to leave it alone or not may depend on where the door is. Is it stuck in recirc, or fresh air? If it is stuck in recirc, you will fog up much faster in cold weather, as you recirculate warm moist air against the windshield. Summer, not as big a deal. If you can manually move the door, I guess you could put it where you want it.
Personally, I hate anything broken and it would kill me to have something broke in the car.
According to ALLDATA, it pays .9 hour. So, you can expect to do it in an hour and a half or so. It pretty much says to remove it, and install a fresh one. The actuator will have a shape that matches up to the door, so no rocket science should be required. ALLDATA also says that after it is done the system will do a self calibration, after disconnecting the battery, and it takes about 13 seconds.
Personally, I would do it and be done with it.
 
#14 ·
No I haven't done anything further with the recirculation door. I simply unplugged it so I could hear myself think. I tried to remove it one day and I couldn't get my hands or any tools in there. It is very far back there. If I remove the blower motor housing I could probably get in there but I really figured that it was more of a hassle and waste of time to try and fix a 30$ part. Mine is stuck in fresh air so it hasn't bothered me too much. Good luck with yours though. If I do end up fixing it I will make sure to update this thread.
 
#16 ·
I had the same issue on my 2006 G6, thank you so much for the help. If you do want to replace it I found this schematic which in definitely helpful (I did not replace it, I just disconnected it)
http://www.dormanproducts.com/digitalassets/document/604-109_Cavlier_Cobalt.PDF (same design as the g6)

One thing that I would like to point out to anyone that is planning to do this... You DO NOT need to remove any bolts/screws simply open the glovebox and squeeze it on both sides to make it fall and get out of the way. From here you can see the blue end of the connector that is shown in the picture by Devriesd above (THANKS, very helpful).


On a different note, I also just reconnected the drain tubes for the sunroof. They were both disconnected, I used some electrical heat shrink tubes. Great design Pontiac!

Happy Fixing
-Dan
 
#17 ·
I just ordered the actuator from RockAuto - $29 incl. shipping. My friend had the same issue on his Impala and paid $300 to have it fixed. If that connector is right there then the actuator should be just inside the blower box. I'll hopefully have warmer weather to install it, and get some photos of my experience. Thanks for the tips! I'll keep you posted!
 
#18 · (Edited)
Fixed mine this weekend. Clicking is GONE!!! The fix is to spin the WHITE gear inside the actuator box around 180 degrees as others have mentioned.

- release glove box with release tabs
- look for blue power connector, that black box is your actuator
- unscrew ONE bolt (forget the size but not hard to find out) - others have noted two bolts but you may only have one.
- there are two plastic tabs (opposite each other) - see image below
- pry back tabs one at a time with a small flat screwdriver, you should be able to eventually pull the actuator

DO NOT TURN ON THE CAR or the actuator motor will spin and you'll lose the original gear position. You can figure it out but it's more work.

- pull out the blue connector with a small flat screwdriver
- mark or scratch the black casing on the actuator AND on the white gear inside the actuator
- use a heat gun and small screwdriver(s) to CAREFULLY and SLOWLY pry open the actuator box.
- Rotate the white gear a full 180 degrees (check your scratch) and re-assemble (use heat gun to soften plastic again).
- Reinstall carefully in the car - you may have to rotate the shaft a bit so it fits into the gear, but should slip right on.

Done!! No cost, no clicking!

 
#21 ·
If you're doing the swap then it's much easier than fixing the existing part. I could probably swap mine out in 5 minutes now that I know what I'm doing! Others mention there being two screws to remove, however mine only had one (and mine is a 2005 GT like yours - so you may be in luck). If it's the same as mine you just pull out the one screw then pry back each of the two tabs while pulling the actuator straight out.

Good luck!
 
#24 · (Edited)
Other Notes:
-There is only one bolt, you will need a 5.5 mm Mini ratchet (not even sure if this will fit) OR Mini Wrench (this is what I used)--This portion will take the longest
-The area is EXTREMELY tight
-Getting the new piece back in might actually be the hardest part. This is very tricky, and I'm actually still stuck on this.

Will update, when I attempt to put back in.
 
#25 ·
Total pain in the butt!



I can totally see why people would just unplug it and leave it. Not a ton of info on a step by step but all the info I've gotten from here helped with a little common sense. The actuator itself held on by one screw that is visible but very hard to get to. There are two clips one just above the screw and another across from it completely hidden from view. I actually removed the aces panel, glove box, side panel near passenger door then the silver box. "Electrical box" not exactly sure what it does or what it's for I want concerned. I removed two bolts "11m ratchet" on the from side "easy" one on the box side. "Quite a bit more difficult especially to put it back in" After that it opened up quite a bit more room for my big hands to get into. Removed the screw, unclipped two clips and removed the wire harness. Pulled right off. Put the new one on"a little tough again because of the room pushed it on and the screw was actually much easier to put on. I used a 7/32 ratchet but only with the extension and not the ratchet. I hands tightened it because of room. Replaced the harness and everything back on. I wished I'd taken pictures but I wouldn't do this again even if you paid me. Yoga like everyone is saying is a definite. Really uncomfortable positioning. I was upside down and sideways. I'm done though it works and everything Is back on like nothing ever happens. Only paid $23 on Amazon for it and it only took two days to ship.

Cheers and thanks to all that previously posted. You guys helped me a lot.
 
#27 ·
Hi, I'm not sure if you'll reply to this comment, it is now 2019, but here goes... I've been looking for an EASY FIX to the knocking sound from the "actuator", as I have read and now am convinced is my problem. I'VE FINALLY FOUND THE RIGHT PLACE !!! Ok, so I've got my glove compartment and what not out and away from my dash. I can see the fan blower motor casing (black box that looks impossible to remove) and the bottom section of the motor. Where exactly is this small blue wire/ plug, that is mentioned? I have tried clicking on link for the Cobalt diagram, it is now broken or not available anymore. I do own a 2008 G6 but all looks the exact same and probably is, as the 2006 model.
 
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