Loud clicking from under dash

[Devriesd]

Here is the long version:

I've run into a VERY annoying problem it started about a month ago when the weather was really cold. I noticed that there was a really loud clicking coming from below the passenger side dash, where the blower motor is. This only happened on days that where colder than -20. Naturally I suspected the blower motor, so I turned the blower off; no change. Then I pulled relays and fuses pertaining to the blower motor; still no change. Then I pulled apart the lower dash to see if I could isolate it, well its coming from the black box where the blower motor was. I googled and googled looking for something related to this problem, several people I talked to, including mechanics were rather stumped. They often mentioned it could possibly be an actuator but if it were the actuators, the climate control knobs the rate of the ticking should change, it did not. So I started pulling wire connections, with again no solution. Then today I found a really small wire in a place that was really hard to get at I pulled it and magically the sound stopped. This wire was attached to the actuator, (Actuator GM# 15842338 ACD# 15-73513)

So my questions now are:
a.) should I bother fixing it when everything works properly with it unplugged?
b.)If I replace the actuator, will that actually fix the problem or was that just coincidence that those wires stopped the noise? (does it power anything else?)
c.)how easy would this fix be to do myself, or how expensive should this fix be if I bring it into a shop? the dash is already apart so...?

I couldn't find a G6 diagram but this Colbalt diagram is similar. The wire was attached to callout #37 in the top left. This diagram would be looking towards the rear of the vehicle from in front of the blower motor assembly.
DIAGRAM REFERENCE

[Devriesd]

Well upon further consultation, I have managed to find out that this is the actuator for the air recirculation door. Hardly a priority fix. I also located an ebay actuator for $29.99 here.

Now the problem is removing it. Has anyone done this before? It looks like a tight space to work.

Looking forward from the passenger seat, this is what you see directly in front of where the glove box would be. It is the blower motor assembly.


This is a close up slightly to the right of the previous picture. This shows the wire that I removed from the actuator. (LOOK FOR THE BLUE THING)

Sorry for the crappy cell phone pics.

[Abyssul]

You are bound and determined to find that knock lol. You find that annoying? My G6 makes a ticking sound when its in park because the flex plate in the transmission wasn't molded right. Has a tech bulletin and all, but its not under warranty so I'm not paying lol.

Enough about me. If you need any diagrams, just ask. I have ALLDATA.

[dan023]

Hey just bought a 2009 g6 se, where the heck is the xmission dip stick? gotta be one! right? I got such a good deal on the car, i didn't even examine the fluid for wear.

thanks in advance.
Dan
2009 g6 se 3.5 v6 n-engine code

[Abyssul]

Dan023, there is no transmission dipstick on the G6. You have to remove a bolt from the transmission and manually check the fluid level.

Devriesd, can you try and take more pictures. There are three actuators for the HVAC and I narrowed it down to two. I would just keep the wires plugged in and deal with the clicking sound unless it is unnecessarily loud.

[Devriesd]

Originally Posted by Abyssul

Devriesd, can you try and take more pictures.

All I have is a cell phone cam, and it doesn't really focus to well on close up shots. My second post is the best I can get with the lighting in there without a better camera.

Originally Posted by Abyssul

There are three actuators for the HVAC and I narrowed it down to two. I would just keep the wires plugged in and deal with the clicking sound unless it is unnecessarily loud.

Oh its definitely loud. It sounds like someone is doing a drum roll on the inside of my dash. After driving to the city last weekend (3.5 hr drive) I nearly went insane!

I'm glad I've isolated it to the recirculation door/actuator. But I haven't gotten any further than that. I just unplugged it, every thing works as per usual except for the actual recirculation feature. Its no big deal as the recirculation is really only handy for the A/C in the summer. And I perfer the windows down anyway.

But of course now that I get one thing figured out something else goes wrong. Murphy's law right! The bolts on the exhaust flex pipe have sheared off. I sound like a ricer with a bad cherry bomb exhaust. It's just been one thing after another this week lol!

[waterfowler76]

I have a couple of those studs at home, let me know if you need the part number.

I snapped one when I was installing my GT-R but was never able to beat the old one out so I just drilled it out and used a regular hex bolt with washers and a nut....might be the easier way for you to go.

[Devriesd]

Originally Posted by waterfowler76

I have a couple of those studs at home, let me know if you need the part number.

I snapped one when I was installing my GT-R but was never able to beat the old one out so I just drilled it out and used a regular hex bolt with washers and a nut....might be the easier way for you to go.

Part number would be awesome! I should have read your response sooner, I revived then jacked an old thread on here for it lol

also trying to track down a diagram with an index, so far this is what I found. I don't quite know where it came apart though, its either bolt #7 or #10.

[waterfowler76]

here ya go

click here

[Devriesd]

Originally Posted by waterfowler76

here ya go

click here

Awesome! thanks!

[dan023]

Thank you

[storm83]

have you done anything else on the recirculation door/actuator issue? my g/f's car has the same exact problem.. and i also narrowed it down to that. Its been like this for a few months.. and I havent found ANYTHING about it.. until I found this thread today! its annoying and loud as hell. thanks for the wire information... that is getting unplugged right away to at least stop the noise. but would still like to fix it! now i have to go fix her leaking pano roof tubes... nothing like driving in a car that rains on the inside.. and ticks like you wouldnt believe...i would love to have a few words with the people who designed this monstrosity!

[davez26]

I guess to leave it alone or not may depend on where the door is. Is it stuck in recirc, or fresh air? If it is stuck in recirc, you will fog up much faster in cold weather, as you recirculate warm moist air against the windshield. Summer, not as big a deal. If you can manually move the door, I guess you could put it where you want it.
Personally, I hate anything broken and it would kill me to have something broke in the car.
According to ALLDATA, it pays .9 hour. So, you can expect to do it in an hour and a half or so. It pretty much says to remove it, and install a fresh one. The actuator will have a shape that matches up to the door, so no rocket science should be required. ALLDATA also says that after it is done the system will do a self calibration, after disconnecting the battery, and it takes about 13 seconds.
Personally, I would do it and be done with it.

[Devriesd]

No I haven't done anything further with the recirculation door. I simply unplugged it so I could hear myself think. I tried to remove it one day and I couldn't get my hands or any tools in there. It is very far back there. If I remove the blower motor housing I could probably get in there but I really figured that it was more of a hassle and waste of time to try and fix a 30$ part. Mine is stuck in fresh air so it hasn't bothered me too much. Good luck with yours though. If I do end up fixing it I will make sure to update this thread.

[storm83]

Awesome, thanks for the reply. I did unplug it.. and that did the trick. Shes happy, thats all that matters. A couple of months of that will make you go insane...