Coolant Flush/ No heat Now Help Plz..i am cold - Pontiac G6 Forum
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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-25-2011, 05:10 PM Thread Starter
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Exclamation Coolant Flush/ No heat Now Help Plz..i am cold

Hello just found this site, I have a 2006 G6 V6 3.5, when i got it the heat worked just fine. i did a coolant flush on it with dexcool - and now ever since my heat has gone to shit. they blow out luke warm air no where near to hot and one of my vents is more cold then warm its weird. I did replace my teromstat still nothing. i took my dash apart to see if the air vents were lose they are not. The temp guage reads a little below 225 where it has always ran. Any help on this would be great its getting colder and colder in ohio as we get close to winter i need some heat Thanks Guys....
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-25-2011, 11:08 PM
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Probably just trapped air in the system. Here's your '06 3.5L bleed valve:

https://www.g6ownersclub.com/forum/at...1&d=1319605279

If you want the entire how-to pm me with an email address to send it to you.



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Last edited by greenman; 10-26-2011 at 12:32 AM.
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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-25-2011, 11:42 PM
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Wrote this for another forum but it mostly applies to a G6:

Have the car cooled down, remove the cap on the coolant reservoir. you will need to fill this up almost completely. let it sit for a few minutes, keep checking the level. it will probably go down a bit, and burp some air bubbles. Air will naturally rise to the highest point, which is why coolant tanks are higher than the coolant passages in the engine.
After you do this for about 10-15 minutes, start the car with the coolant cap off. Let it run for a few minutes, you will need to turn the HVAC control to full heat. Next, open the purge screw. You will get coolant coming out of it. After you let that flow for a minute, close it. Let the engine run for about 10 minutes, check the temp gauge periodically. You can now put the cap back on the reservoir after you check the coolant level with the engine running. Make sure it has plenty of coolant in it. You should have hot air blowing from the vents, & the temp gauge should read normal operating temp. Shut off the engine, let it cool for a few minutes, recheck the level.




Last edited by greenman; 10-25-2011 at 11:45 PM.
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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-26-2011, 12:18 PM Thread Starter
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ok i will give this a try, when i put more coolant in it, it should be almost to the top correct ? pass the full line ?. also keep checking the level. it will probably go down a bit, and burp some air bubbles, if it does go down do i add more to keep it almost full or no. one more thing if it is pass the full line will it hurt anything and if so should i keep the purge screw open untill it gets back to normal at the full line...Thanks for your help so much
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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-26-2011, 03:13 PM
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Quote:
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ok i will give this a try, when i put more coolant in it, it should be almost to the top correct ? pass the full line ?.
yes

Quote:
also keep checking the level. it will probably go down a bit, and burp some air bubbles, if it does go down do i add more to keep it almost full or no.
keep it topped up

Quote:
one more thing if it is pass the full line will it hurt anything
when done ensure it is at the hot full mark

Quote:
and if so should i keep the purge screw open untill it gets back to normal at the full line...
however you want to do it (a turkey baster works too)

Quote:
Thanks for your help so much
Happy to help.

A dealer mechanic puts a vacuum on the system when filling to evac the air so they don't have to mess around with bleeding the system. Works slick.

If bleeding does not work there is a chance your heater core is clogged. How did the old coolant look?




Last edited by greenman; 10-26-2011 at 03:19 PM.
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-26-2011, 08:06 PM Thread Starter
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Not sure what the old coolant looked like had the flush done at work Valvoline, my buddy did it for me i think it looked ok, there was only 79k miles on it so i could not have been that bad, as for now it looks good. also now my car seems to get almost to the 225 mark witch i think is to high but then comes back down a little it was some what warm today like 72 and my heat seemed to be ok latter tonight cold again and no heat....weird thing... is there a way i can check or test is the core is plugged...and on a scale of 1 to 10 how hard would that be to replace lol....again thank you so much for ur time and help...I really appreciate it
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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-26-2011, 11:09 PM
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also now my car seems to get almost to the 225 mark witch i think is to high but then comes back down a little it was some what warm today like 72 and my heat seemed to be ok latter tonight cold again and no heat
So you are saying that it was pumping out HVAC heat during the day & tonight it's gone cold again.

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...is there a way i can check or test is the core is plugged...and on a scale of 1 to 10 how hard would that be to replace lol....again thank you so much for ur time and help...I really appreciate it
For most people, replacing the heater core is a 8 or 9 unless you have done it on that particular car before. The entire dashboard usually has to be pulled though an expert can sometimes avoid that.

So before the flush everything was jake? The heat was fine?

When you are next getting no heat feel the heater hoses. both should be hot to touch.




Last edited by greenman; 10-26-2011 at 11:14 PM.
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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-27-2011, 07:38 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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So you are saying that it was pumping out HVAC heat during the day & tonight it's gone cold again.
not normally but yesterday it was warm so it worked fine for some reason its on colder days it dont work.


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So before the flush everything was jake? The heat was fine?

When you are next getting no heat feel the heater hoses. both should be hot to touch .
Yes before flushing the heat worked ok, i will try to see if the hoses are hot.
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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-27-2011, 01:50 PM
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not normally but yesterday it was warm so it worked fine for some reason its on colder days it dont work.
So it was warm (but not hot?) after you attempted to bleed it? Sounds like there may still be air in it.


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Yes before flushing the heat worked ok, i will try to see if the hoses are hot.
Don't know your climate but had you been using the heat regularly before flushing? I ask because I haven't used/needed my heat since last spring.

If the heat was good before flushing, it follows that flushing caused your issue. Sounds like there may still be air in it.



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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-27-2011, 06:23 PM Thread Starter
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So it was warm (but not hot?) after you attempted to bleed it? Sounds like there may still be air in it.
its luke warm/cold not hot dont know if its normal for the temp guage to be very close to 225.


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Don't know your climate but had you been using the heat regularly before flushing? I ask because I haven't used/needed my heat since last spring.

If the heat was good before flushing, it follows that flushing caused your issue. Sounds like there may still be air in it.
and yes i did use my heat before the flush i just wanted to test it out before i baught the car it was hot to were it would burn ur hands if u cover the vents up with ur hands lol wish i still had that....

Have not done wat you posted before with adding coolant to my coolant resivor and try to see if it burps out air. i am trying tomorrow been busy today...will let you know also will check hoses to see if they get hot
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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-28-2011, 05:43 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greenman View Post
Wrote this for another forum but it mostly applies to a G6:

Have the car cooled down, remove the cap on the coolant reservoir. you will need to fill this up almost completely. let it sit for a few minutes, keep checking the level. it will probably go down a bit, and burp some air bubbles. Air will naturally rise to the highest point, which is why coolant tanks are higher than the coolant passages in the engine.
After you do this for about 10-15 minutes, start the car with the coolant cap off. Let it run for a few minutes, you will need to turn the HVAC control to full heat. Next, open the purge screw. You will get coolant coming out of it. After you let that flow for a minute, close it. Let the engine run for about 10 minutes, check the temp gauge periodically. You can now put the cap back on the reservoir after you check the coolant level with the engine running. Make sure it has plenty of coolant in it. You should have hot air blowing from the vents, & the temp gauge should read normal operating temp. Shut off the engine, let it cool for a few minutes, recheck the level.
ok i did this and still same problem, i am starting to think it is the heater core so today i took the 2 heater hose off and put a power washer in 1 and tried to power wash and thing that could clog it up, i put my hoses back on it does feel a little warmer but not much it should be really hot not just a little warm...any ideas if it is the heater core how to clear the clog out thanks
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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-28-2011, 07:09 PM
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Quote:
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ok i did this and still same problem, i am starting to think it is the heater core so today i took the 2 heater hose off and put a power washer in 1 and tried to power wash and thing that could clog it up, i put my hoses back on it does feel a little warmer but not much it should be really hot not just a little warm...any ideas if it is the heater core how to clear the clog out thanks
Never tried using a pressure washer on one but that might work to clear it out although too much pressure could damage the small passages. Since you opened the system you introduced more air into it & it will need to be bled again.

What about the hose touch test? Both hoses should be hot (& same temp) when the engine is warmed up.

Another tip is rather than disconnect the heater core hoses at the core itself, pull them off at a more convenient connection or cut them in a handy spot so you can splice them back together easily. It is just too easy to break the core nipples trying to pull the hoses off.

Do you have manual or automatic climate control?

Are you noticing much fluctuation of the engine temperature? You hinted that you noticed some. That could indicate a water pump issue but that really doesn't fit well given the rapid onset of your symptoms.

Lots of good info on youtube:







Last edited by greenman; 10-29-2011 at 12:10 AM.
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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-29-2011, 01:22 PM Thread Starter
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Never tried using a pressure washer on one but that might work to clear it out although too much pressure could damage the small passages. Since you opened the system you introduced more air into it & it will need to be bled again.
Well i only did it for a few seconds still didnt work like i said i didnt try to do it to both hoses i should have, going to try it again with both hoses this time, and i did bleed it again after.

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What about the hose touch test? Both hoses should be hot (& same temp) when the engine is warmed up.
One hose was hot/warm and the other hose was a little warm not hot at all


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Originally Posted by greenman View Post
Do you have manual or automatic climate control?

Are you noticing much fluctuation of the engine temperature? You hinted that you noticed some. That could indicate a water pump issue but that really doesn't fit well given the rapid onset of your symptoms.
I have a manual climate control.. no the temp guage has not moved but that one time it was weird its back to noraml right below 225 is where it stays after being warmed up..
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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-29-2011, 02:50 PM
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Try one of the other heater core clearing techniques. I'm a little afraid a pressure washer could damage the small passages.



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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-02-2011, 01:16 PM Thread Starter
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Try one of the other heater core clearing techniques. I'm a little afraid a pressure washer could damage the small passages.
Ok so i went ahead and bought a flush kit with a 5/8 flush tee and some peak super cleaner i put the tee on the lower heater core hose and attached a waterhose to the tee and block off the other end of the flush tee, i then washed out the heater core. after that i blew out all of the water and put in the cleaner i let it sit for about 45 mins or so then flush it out with the water this is with the upper heater core hose as well after that blew all remaining fludis out of heatercore, put more dexcool in it and bleed it as u said above...Now both heater core hoses are hot and it seems to be a little warmer but still not as hot as it should and one of the vents is still putting out colder air then the rest...I have no idea wat to do now i tried every thing...lol any more ideas thanks
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