Brand new blower motor is frustratingly weak!!! - Pontiac G6 Forum
 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-09-2012, 03:58 AM Thread Starter
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Brand new blower motor is frustratingly weak!!!

Hey guys, new to the G6 Owners Club and I was looking for some help. Sorry if this was already covered in another thread but I couldn't find it anywhere, here or on Google. I have an 05' G6 in which the blower motor and blower motor resistor went out on. I first lost blower levels 1, 2, and 3 but level 4 worked just fine. Then I started hearing squeeking and squeeling from the blower motor itself which turned into a nasty grinding noise. I replaced both blower motor and resistor a few days later but the new motor I put in just doesn't have any force behind it and barely defogs my windshield. The old motor put out air like a jet turbine and i'm looking to restore that kind of power to it. I know there isn't anything blocking the airflow and the actuator door works just fine supplying air where I want it to. My first impression was that the motor just wasn't as powerful but I can't imagine ANYONE being satisfied with this kind of air output and if this is how it was intended to work then these motors should be pulled from the market. The only solution I have been able to come up with is that the resistor is cutting too much power to the motor (which doesn't seem likely since even level 4, which iv'e read is a direct 12v supply to the motor, is frustratingly weak). I did find one case of someone saying the wiring harness in their blower was manufactured backwards causing the motor to spin the wrong direction but it was a different make and model car completely. Does it seem likely that this could be the problem? Has anyone else run into this problem? The old blower was the original motor since I had to cut it out of the dash and the new motor is a Factory Air by 4 Seasons i believe the part# was 75777. I'm not sure of the resistor but I can look it up if need be. THANKS!!!!
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-09-2012, 09:17 AM
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My first thought was rotating backwards.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-09-2012, 04:55 PM Thread Starter
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Would I just cut the wires between the plug and the blower motor and flip them?
Is there an easier way to test it without cutting?
And if this isn't the problem would it damage the motor or worse?
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-09-2012, 05:00 PM Thread Starter
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If it is rotating backwards and i don't fix it soon will it damage the motor?
I could take the motor out and see which way it's spinning i guess but should it be scooping air from the outside and pushing it toward the center or scooping it from the center and pushing it to the outside?

Last edited by 07BBeck; 03-09-2012 at 05:08 PM.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-09-2012, 10:29 PM
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Quote:
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Would I just cut the wires between the plug and the blower motor and flip them?
Is there an easier way to test it without cutting?
And if this isn't the problem would it damage the motor or worse?
Not sure, but it sounds like that new motor is reverse-wired. It's a reversible dc motor so no you won't hurt it running it in either direction but the squirrel cage fan only pushes air in one.



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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-10-2012, 03:33 AM
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I believe they work by pulling air in through the center and blowing towards the outside. I would take it out, but keep it plugged in, And just try running it, Only on number 1, and see which way it spins, if it works with the way the fins are facing.

You could just go and cut the wires and flip them and reconnect, but make sure you don't do it with anything on so you don't cause any problems and such. It sounds like it's going backwards to me, Even at 4 its barely blowing but you can hear it running at full speed. then it sounds like that's the problem to me
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-10-2012, 05:03 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies! Going to try cutting and reversing the wires since it was a pain in the ass laying on my back on the passenger seat, head smashed into the floor, putting in the screws while holding the motor in place. Ill post the results later. Thanks again for the help!
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-10-2012, 06:32 AM Thread Starter
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PROBLEM SOLVED! I have my jet turbine blower back! As soon as I went out to cut the wires I clearly saw that the red and black wires leading into one side of the wiring harness were flip flopped from the red and black wires on the other side. Is this a rare manufacturing fault of 4 Seasons or Advanced Autos fault for telling me that this blower was made for the G6? Im half pissed at one of them and half pissed at myself for not noticing it when I attached the harness. However i'm 100% happy that I have a full power blower again for the low low cost of nothing! I just cut the wires on the blower side of the harness stripped em' flipped em', threw on some wire nuts and wrapped them in electrical tape to make sure they wouldn't come loose. Job done! Thanks for the help!!!
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-10-2012, 12:19 PM
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Quote:
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PROBLEM SOLVED! I have my jet turbine blower back! As soon as I went out to cut the wires I clearly saw that the red and black wires leading into one side of the wiring harness were flip flopped from the red and black wires on the other side. Is this a rare manufacturing fault of 4 Seasons or Advanced Autos fault for telling me that this blower was made for the G6? Im half pissed at one of them and half pissed at myself for not noticing it when I attached the harness. However i'm 100% happy that I have a full power blower again for the low low cost of nothing! I just cut the wires on the blower side of the harness stripped em' flipped em', threw on some wire nuts and wrapped them in electrical tape to make sure they wouldn't come loose. Job done! Thanks for the help!!!
I would try to get my money back for the inconvenience caused. Either they have a manufacturing issue or they have the design reversed & might not be aware of it. Let them know.

I would solder that splice because (IIRC) the motor pulls 12 amps nominally at high speed & any resistance to current flow at that splice will overheat & probably melt it & whatever is close to it.




Last edited by greenman; 03-10-2012 at 10:11 PM.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-10-2012, 09:42 PM
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I would recommend doing as greenman said and soldering the wires, I've found that wire nuts don't always do so well on strand wire that's used in cars. Works really well for solid core wire that's used in buildings and such. You could also get some crimp connectors and wrap it all up...

Glad it now works as it should! Also nice that your posts were only an hour and a half apart... I'd say that's a pretty quick fix!
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-12-2012, 07:25 AM Thread Starter
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I don't have a soldering iron or, well, any tools really except for the basics. But the thought of the whole thing melting is pretty unnerving. My buddy may have what I need to finish the job off. Am I looking for the tube style wire crimp, I normally see them in red blue and yellow, not sure if you know what i'm talking about i'll try to post a pic.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-12-2012, 07:39 AM Thread Starter
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Something like this??

Last edited by 07BBeck; 03-12-2012 at 07:42 AM.
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-12-2012, 08:00 PM
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Yea, those are crimp butt-connectors. You just put the wires in and crimp each side, The colors work for different gauge wires. Yellow ones are for larger gauges, Blue for mid-sized, and Red for small gauges. I don't know which colors fit which range of gauges but it says on the packages.
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