2007 G6 still hard shiting......Grrrrr - Pontiac G6 Forum
 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-25-2012, 06:02 PM Thread Starter
LMG
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2007 G6 still hard shiting......Grrrrr

I have a 2007 2.4L G6 Sedan

I took my car to get checked out because of hard shifting. I am still under warranty until NEXTWEEK! I got my cat converter replaced under warranty. Other codes the dealership gave me are:

P0420 - Catalytic Converter- REPLACED
P0013 & P0014 - upstream 02 sensor REPLACED and Exhaust Camshaft sensor REPLACED

I also CLEANED MAF sensor.

Any other thoughts? Engine light still on...

Dealership is convinced its not the trans. Car does run better, but you can still feel it shift into the first 3 gears. HELP!?!?
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-25-2012, 07:05 PM
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I have an 06 2.4L and recently had a hard shifting problem with an engine light displayed. They told me it was a cam actuator and replaced it. Haven't had a problem since.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-25-2012, 07:07 PM
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First, I'm assuming that they replaced the exhaust Camshaft Position (CMP) actuator solenoid valve (next to cyl #1 plug on top of the engine) & not the CMP actuator itself. I guess some guys call those sensors but I don't because they don't sense anything.

I would need to know what the current code/s are that have popped the MIL since completing the repair to help you. I have a suspicion but I'll wait for the codes. I assume they did clear the codes after the repair.

Autozone can read them for you if you don't own a code reader.

Also, clean the throttle body if it hasn't been lately. It's just basic maintenance.




Last edited by greenman; 04-25-2012 at 07:30 PM.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-25-2012, 08:20 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greenman View Post
First, I'm assuming that they replaced the exhaust Camshaft Position (CMP) actuator solenoid valve (next to cyl #1 plug on top of the engine) & not the CMP actuator itself. I guess some guys call those sensors but I don't because they don't sense anything.

I would need to know what the current code/s are that have popped the MIL since completing the repair to help you. I have a suspicion but I'll wait for the codes. I assume they did clear the codes after the repair.

Autozone can read them for you if you don't own a code reader.

Also, clean the throttle body if it hasn't been lately. It's just basic maintenance.
This is the exact part that was replaced: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...osition+sensor

The codes were cleared and are still kicking out p0013 & p0014. I have a friend of mine who does the work for me, and he also found a wire issue, but I am not familiar with what this wire is and where/how I can get it replaced. You can see the copper exposed through the casing but I am not certain what this is.... Any help is MUCH appreciated!
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-25-2012, 09:53 PM
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Your picture shows that the exhaust CMP actuator solenoid wire harness is damaged. That's producing the 13 & 14 codes. That wire must be repaired.




Last edited by greenman; 04-25-2012 at 09:59 PM.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-25-2012, 11:21 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greenman View Post
Your picture shows that the exhaust CMP actuator solenoid wire harness is damaged. That's producing the 13 & 14 codes. That wire must be repaired.
Thank you! Funny how the dealership did not mention it was covered under the warranty..... I'm going to try and find this in print so I can take it with me tomorrow. Thanks again! Will update when replaced!
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-25-2012, 11:37 PM
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Thank you! Funny how the dealership did not mention it was covered under the warranty..... I'm going to try and find this in print so I can take it with me tomorrow. Thanks again! Will update when replaced!
You misunderstood. The solenoid valve itself is covered but that's not your problem. You are on your own for the wire harness repair.




Last edited by greenman; 04-25-2012 at 11:41 PM.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-25-2012, 11:46 PM Thread Starter
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You misunderstood. The solenoid valve itself is covered but that's not your problem. You are on your own for the wire harness repair.
Yeah thats fine, but they did not mention the solenoid was covered when they originally gave me the list of possibilities it could be. (The 02 sensor, camshaft, cot converter, etc). And the only thing covered was the cat converter.

Would an auto part store carry the replacement harneess?
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-25-2012, 11:56 PM
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Quote:
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Would an auto part store carry the replacement harneess?
You don't want to replace the engine harness. Just extend the two wires to the valve's connector. If you aren't comfortable DIYing it it shouldn't cost much to have it done.



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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-26-2012, 12:07 AM Thread Starter
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You don't want to replace the engine harness. Just extend the two wires to the valve's connector. If you aren't comfortable DIYing it it shouldn't cost much to have it done.
Yeah I'll have to check around to see prices for that. If there was step-by-step how-to's I wouldn't mind, but I think I'll call around first! Thanks so much for the info!
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-26-2012, 01:06 PM Thread Starter
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You don't want to replace the engine harness. Just extend the two wires to the valve's connector. If you aren't comfortable DIYing it it shouldn't cost much to have it done.
So now I am at a complete loss. Went to autozone. Only code that came back was p0013- possible bad electrical connection. They do not sell the plug piece. Went back to dealership- estimated repair at $250!

Took it to an auto electric specialist, he said that's not the issue- he tested the wire, said the connectivity is good and put a silicone covering on the wire. He will replace it Monday for $40, but he says he feels that is not gonna change anything.....
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-26-2012, 01:20 PM
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Quote:
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So now I am at a complete loss. Went to autozone. Only code that came back was p0013- possible bad electrical connection. They do not sell the plug piece. Went back to dealership- estimated repair at $250!

Took it to an auto electric specialist, he said that's not the issue- he tested the wire, said the connectivity is good and put a silicone covering on the wire. He will replace it Monday for $40, but he says he feels that is not gonna change anything.....
If repairing the obviously damaged harness does not erase the code & stop the rough shifting, then replace the exhaust solenoid that it plugs into. Solenoids are in the $50 neighborhood online...probably more at a dealer. Very easy DIY. If it were mine, I replace both solenoids now. They are diff part numbers.

Dealers are such hosers.




Last edited by greenman; 04-26-2012 at 01:25 PM.
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-28-2012, 01:27 AM
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So it just occurred to me that the exhaust solenoid is closest to the firewall so the damaged wire to the intake solenoid (even though it looks completely severed to me in that photo (guessing it's rodent damage)) is not throwing any code. So the problem in the OP's case is a bad exhaust CMP actuator solenoid (as is very common for the LE5 engine). Still, that wire requires repair before it creates its own issue.



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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-30-2012, 03:39 AM
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you replaced the exhaust cam sensor but did you replace the intake sensor?? cuz mine was the intake NOT the exhaust.
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