error code P0011, low oil, slight thumping sound on acceleration - Pontiac G6 Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-03-2012, 02:15 PM Thread Starter
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error code P0011, low oil, slight thumping sound on acceleration

Hi I have an 06 G6 and last week my engine light turned on and I also noticed sometimes when I am driving slow and hit the gas to go faster, there is sometimes a thump.

So I went to autozone and they read the error code and it came up as P0011 (see printout attached). I saw one of the options on the printout says something about low oil so I checked the oil and pulled the dipstick out and it did not have any oil on it! I was almost due for an oil change so I had it changed rather then topping it off.

Got the car back and I did not hear the thump anylonger, and the next day the check engine light turned off. I checked the oil level again and all 4 bars on the dipstick were covered. Now a week later I heard the thumping sound again and today my check engine light turned back on. I checked the oil level and its down to the 2nd bar. So I figured I have an oil leak. I took the car to my local shop today and they put it on the lift and said no oil leak, it looks clean. They said they have to do diagnostics on Monday to further check it out.

So I was just wondering if anyone has any idea what the problem can be? Was hoping to have some idea of what is going on so they dont rip me off on Monday. Any info would be appreciated.

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-03-2012, 02:40 PM
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Forget about the oil. I'm going to guess you have the 2.4l engine. Right?



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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-03-2012, 03:06 PM Thread Starter
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yes! 2.4 L...is that bad?
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-03-2012, 03:44 PM
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Actually its good. That is that most common issue with that engine & the fix is very DIY friendly. There are several threads already on this. Look for the button that says "Search This Forum" & search on p0011 or p0010. If I were doing it I would just replace both camshaft position actuators at this time as the other one next to it will fail soon enough. After doing some searching & reading feel free to ask your questions here.



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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-03-2012, 09:06 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the followup...I was looking into this problem and it says the problem may be due to low oil, so shouldnt I be concerned about the low oil? In other words if the oil was not running low, this problem would not occur. Or would this problem cause the oil to evaporate faster?
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-03-2012, 09:57 PM
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Sure. Verify the oil level & clear the code & see if it returns but I have no doubt it will. Oil level would have to be much lower than that to be an issue. Best to check oil level when engine has been off for a good hour.



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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-06-2012, 07:28 AM Thread Starter
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Greenman- I was going to test my cmp solenoid but I am not sure how to do so. I looked at other posts and I was able to unplug the cable and I see three pins. I got a multimeter and set the resistance to 200 (the lowest setting) but I am not sure what pins to test. Also when I test them I assume I do so with the car turned off, correct?
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-06-2012, 01:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kq702 View Post
Greenman- I was going to test my cmp solenoid but I am not sure how to do so. I looked at other posts and I was able to unplug the cable and I see three pins. I got a multimeter and set the resistance to 200 (the lowest setting) but I am not sure what pins to test. Also when I test them I assume I do so with the car turned off, correct?

If there are 3 pins then you have identified the wrong part. Do not confuse the CMP actuators with the CMP sensors. The CMP actuators are both on top on the engine right next to Cyl # 1. Engine Off, you pull off the connector & put the leads across the 2 pins for a resistance test. They may be in spec when cold (often are) & only act up when hot & working.

But really, the CMP actuators are so problematic I really would not bother trying to verify that they are bad.



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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-07-2012, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks greenman! I located the CORRECT part (on the engine it has a little arrow that points to the exhause and intake solenoids). Just for fun I tested it, and the intake solenoid was way out of spec, was arround 40 or so on the resistance meter. Just ordered the parts, thanks for saving me quite a bit of money!
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-07-2012, 03:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kq702 View Post
Thanks greenman! I located the CORRECT part (on the engine it has a little arrow that points to the exhause and intake solenoids). Just for fun I tested it, and the intake solenoid was way out of spec, was arround 40 or so on the resistance meter. Just ordered the parts, thanks for saving me quite a bit of money!
Put some engine oil on the rubber o-rings before installation & don't over-torque the hold-down bolt (89 lb in). Easiest repair you'll ever do.



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