help my traction control light turns on and off - Pontiac G6 Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-17-2019, 12:45 PM Thread Starter
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help my traction control light turns on and off

Hi! I have a 2010 G6 with roughly 132,000 miles on it. I recently had a lot of work done on the car. I had a rich fuel trim level (I live in nebraska and they said a reason could be the extremly cold weather we have gotten) They fixed that problem and replaced the air filter. Then a day later I took my car in for an oil change and they told me my sway bar link was damaged and needed to be replaced. They fixed that. I picked up my car and drove it about halfway home and my traction control light came on and across the odometer dash screen it said I needed to service it, and service my ESC. So I have two lights on my dash the TC off and the ESC light are both on. So naturally I called the place where I got it fixed when I got home to try to get it checked. I went back out to see if the lights would turn on if I started the car and they did not. It took about 30 mins of driving for it to turn on. then I shut off my car again and took it in the next day. The next day when I turned on my car the ligths that I listed above did not turn on, I took it in anyway, they said they could not help me since the lights did not come back on so I left. As I was driving my car to work (about a 20 min drive) I parked on a patch of ice and snow and the ligths lit up my dashboard again! I am not sure if there is a real problem or if a sensor is out or if it just the ice and snow here? Can someone please help me as I do not know what is happening and the lights are not turning on when I start the car.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-17-2019, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by genmoravek View Post
Can someone please help me as I do not know what is happening and the lights are not turning on when I start the car.
I suspect a bad (intermittent) connection in the wheel speed sensor cable going to one of the front wheels. This is pretty common on the w-bodies where the cable gets flexed a lot resulting in the wires getting damaged.

I don't think it's as common on the epsilon platforms, but given you just had work done on the sway bar link, I can't help but think the nearby wire got handled resulting in the bad connection.

Fixing it may be as easy as making sure the connector (near the brake rotor) is seated properly. On the w-bodies, often the cable needs to repaired, which would be the worst case here, I think.

When you get the messages on the dash, does the ABS light come on, too?

Doug

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-17-2019, 01:29 PM Thread Starter
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No the ABS does not come on that is why I am so confused on what is happening with this!
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-17-2019, 01:43 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by plano_doug View Post
I suspect a bad (intermittent) connection in the wheel speed sensor cable going to one of the front wheels. This is pretty common on the w-bodies where the cable gets flexed a lot resulting in the wires getting damaged.

I don't think it's as common on the epsilon platforms, but given you just had work done on the sway bar link, I can't help but think the nearby wire got handled resulting in the bad connection.

Fixing it may be as easy as making sure the connector (near the brake rotor) is seated properly. On the w-bodies, often the cable needs to repaired, which would be the worst case here, I think.

When you get the messages on the dash, does the ABS light come on, too?

Doug

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No the ABS does not come on that is why I am so confused on what is happening with this! Sorry I did not quote the message! I am new here
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-17-2019, 01:51 PM
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No the ABS does not come on that is why I am so confused on what is happening with this! Sorry I did not quote the message! I am new here
The next step, I think, is to get a code scanner and see if you can read the codes when it's happening.

Doug

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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-17-2019, 02:01 PM Thread Starter
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The next step, I think, is to get a code scanner and see if you can read the codes when it's happening.

Doug

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Since the ABS light does not come on does that mean that the connector is okay?
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-17-2019, 04:35 PM
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Since the ABS light does not come on does that mean that the connector is okay?
That's a good question. Usually, with an intermittent connection, the computer may think one of the wheels has locked up, so it displays the ABS light and you can hear it pulsing the brake on one corner - it sounds like a jack hammer noise.

If the car is equipped with traction control, the intermittent connection can also make the computer think a wheel is spinning - losing traction. (That's because an intermittent connection can open and close many times very quickly making the wheel appear to be spinning rather than locked.) So it will apply the brake, pulsing it rapidly. This sounds like a grinding noise, and is different than the ABS firing.

You may also feel this in the steering when it occurs.

I don't have experience with ESC - none of my cars has it. I think there are varying degrees of this which all fit under the umbrella of highly automated driving (HAD).

Anyway, long story short, if you have a bad signal from a wheel speed sensor, what I've seen is the car will disable the traction control (and presumably stability control). I'm wondering if that's what your lights are indicating, that it's disabling something rather than applying it?

The other thought is that a sensor other than wheel speed, which feeds the ESC, could be intermittent and causing your issue.

A scanner with ABS ability may help diagnose this. If it shows a wheel speed problem while the dash lights are on, that helps confirm wheel speed sensor.

HTH.

Doug

.

Last edited by plano_doug; 02-17-2019 at 04:41 PM.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-22-2019, 11:01 PM
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There is a GM bulletin, actually I think it was a recall, for a condition that caused intermittent ESC/TRC lights.
Even if this has been done, it's cheap and easy to do again, at least the part that may correct this.
I recommend it.
I was fighting random ESC/TRC and Security lights that I could not duplicate, and were a pain.
All I could figure was that between this bulletin and the BCM, the relationship might be a connection issue at the BCM.
Anyway, I pulled the connector for the brake pedal, filled it with dielectric grease, pulled the listed BCM connector, did same.
It's been about a month now with no repeats. I am cool with that.
The connectors are easy to access and grease is cheap.
Worth a shot?

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