Front Lower Control Arm + Inner Tie Rod Repairs? - Pontiac G6 Forum
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 10-16-2017, 01:23 PM Thread Starter
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Front Lower Control Arm + Inner Tie Rod Repairs?

2010 G6 - 2.4L 4cyl

I am having some weird clunking noises when I back up and go from reverse to drive, and during my most recent oil change the tech sold me that I should look into replacing my inner tie rod ends on both sides, and my front lower control arm bushings. I copied their report below at the bottom. I was hoping that I could try and do these repairs myself, but I wasn't exactly sure what all was involved and if I needed any special tools? I have done brakes, rotors, and other repairs in the past and I feel pretty comfortable working on the car myself.

I did find this video for the front control arm:

The front control arm repairs seems extremely straight forward, is there a control arm on each side or just one side? The tech didn't say which side but I am assuming it's the passenger since that's where I am hearing noises from. They wanted over $700 to do this repair that is done in a 6 min YT video, am I missing something? The part is $105 for the Duralast brand at Auto Zone, is there a better brand I can get for a little more that might last longer? I heard these things last 20-30k miles?

As for the inner tie rod ends, what's the difference between ends and tie rods? Should I be replacing the entire tie rod or just the ends?

Tie Rod Video:

The video mentions I need a inner tie rod tool, can I rent that from auto zone? Would this be as easy as the control arm repair and should I try it myself?

My plan is to get the parts and knock this out this weekend, I assume it should take me most the day since I am learning as I go.
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 10-25-2017, 11:18 AM
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 04-28-2019, 09:40 PM
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Old thread, but I'll add my comments for the benefit of future readers. I just did both of my control arms.

Yes it can be done, but... first make sure there is room to pull out (forward) the bolt on the front bushing. On the vert, both sides, no problem. On the sedan/coupe, there may be an engine mount in the way. I don't know which, left, right or both, or which engine(s). If that's the case, you may need to loosen the subframe, etc. and support the engine.

The video is accurate but no, it's not a 6 min. job. Nothing comes out or goes back in that easily. Especially if you don't have a hoist. But it's doable. They skip showing you the part where you need to tighten the bushing bolts with the suspension loaded. That's critical. Also, if your new arm comes with a balljoint grease fitting, tape over the hole to keep dirt out. Don't put the fitting in until you're done. You will need to jack up under the balljoint and you don't want to have the jack on the grease fitting. That will ruin your day.

Get the best arm(s) you can. I heard many reports about failures at 1-2 years. Even if you get a lifetime warranty, it's a lot of work and you don't want to do it yearly. I got Moog, we'll see if they last. Make sure you put a new pinch bolt on the balljopint. My arm came with a new bolt. If yours doesn't, get one from a dealer.

And make sure you look up the torque for each bolt, it's critical to safety and longevity.
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Last edited by dxG6; 04-30-2019 at 08:36 PM.
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 04-30-2019, 08:43 PM
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And here is the torque values and procedure. From the website of the folks with the video:
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