06 gtp nitrous - Pontiac G6 Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-28-2006, 03:19 PM Thread Starter
 
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06 gtp nitrous

gonna put exhaust and intake on before but what kind would be ok for it so my questions are wet or dry and how big of a shot any input would be nice
thanks
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-28-2006, 07:11 PM
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Until someone has a way to tune for N20 I would avoid it at all cost.

If you want to play it safe...a 50shot would be plenty to get you a low ~ mid 13 second timeslip and not grenade the engine for a while yet.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-28-2006, 09:21 PM Thread Starter
 
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ok is that a dry or wet shot isnt dry suppose to be safer
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-05-2006, 04:04 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caleb7277
ok is that a dry or wet shot isnt dry suppose to be safer
Wet kit.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-08-2006, 11:55 AM
 
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dry shot is safer for the engine, I do think a 50shot would be all you need.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-08-2006, 12:01 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sleepless
dry shot is safer for the engine, I do think a 50shot would be all you need.
What?
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-08-2006, 06:00 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackrider
What?
ditto. Wet kit is going to be safer. I'm not a nitrous expert ,but I think with a dry kit you are depending on the factory ECU and fuel system to compensate by adding enough extra fuel. I think the problem arises when the stock system can't inject enough fuel and the engine runs very lean. With a wet kit you don't have this problem.

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong....
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-08-2006, 06:11 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jp375
ditto. Wet kit is going to be safer. I'm not a nitrous expert ,but I think with a dry kit you are depending on the factory ECU and fuel system to compensate by adding enough extra fuel. I think the problem arises when the stock system can't inject enough fuel and the engine runs very lean. With a wet kit you don't have this problem.

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong....
Bingo. This issue is amplifyed the bigger shot you use.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-31-2006, 09:08 AM
 
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Let me explain nitrous to you in a nutshell. SAVE YOUR MONEY! Wait on forced induction for this car that's more permenant then a bottle.

Here's what you looking at cost wise for nitrous.

Kit: wet or dry is gonna run you about 500 bucks on the low end

Bottle Warmer: about 100 bucks to maintain pressure.

Purge Kit: About another 100 bucks to save from getting air in your lines. (Yes that's horrible for your motor)

Air/Fuel Ratio Guage: about 80 bucks depending on what you get. You have to keep your eye on it to make sure you're not leaning out your engine.

Nitrous Guage: About another 80 bucks to keep an eye on the pressure in the bottle.

No doubt extra 4an line. Which is about 4 bucks a foot. Count on buying at least 10 feet of this stuff.

Professional Computer Tuning/Dyno Pull: You want to do this to get the most of your kit, and to make sure you don't detonate your motor. You'll spend in the neighborhood of 200 bucks.

Oh yeah, by the way. You've got about 1 minute and 10 seconds of use out of that bottle. Nitrous is about 4.50 a lb (10lb bottle) and has probably gone up since I stopped using it. So count on about 45 bucks a fill up. Fill it even 10 times and you're at 450.

So lets do some math. Your at about $1650 and you've gained around 75hp at the flywheel. Even if you ran a 100 shot, you gain about 60hp at the wheels. Not a bad improvement


Understand that I'm not trying to insinuate anything, but any moron can strap a bottle down in a car and run nitrous. But you NEED the above things to run it right and not cause youself long term problems. People think it's a cheap way to add big power. Well it can be, but it can be a cheap way to blow up an engine as well.
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