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Airbox tube

41K views 102 replies 35 participants last post by  Ron-I 
#1 · (Edited)
I've started to lightly mod the car. By now everyone must know my opionion about the stock airbox being good with the 5 inch fender air hole through the bottom. Well, today I pulled out the passenger side headlight assembly to gain access to the airbox intake tube/resonator and pulled it out. As the pic below shows it is somewhat restrictive with the resonator bellows. After I removed it, I test drove the car. Right off the bat the engine sounded a tad deeper at idle. When I took it out on the street and gave it WOT, it responded with a very nice (almost v-8) growl, just as a CAI would do. It also has more pulling power as well. My K&N panel filter will be here Monday from Fox Performance so it should be even better after that.
 

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#3 · (Edited)
I was going to just cut off the bellows and put the pipe back in, but I left everything out. The piece in the bottom of the pic was another resonator bellow that was attached to the pipe. I had to cut it off with a dremmel to pull everything up through the top. The resonator bellows are huge and really did a great job at quieting the engine down. Yes, the MPG should go up as well. But I find myself giving it WOT a lot more to hear the engine now. It really sounds a lot better.
 
#5 ·
I just removed the pipe/bellows in the picture. Taking out the headlight is very easy, just remove the two top screws of the light housing and the top plastic pop out fasteners for the front bumper fascia. You have to pull the fascia forward in order to get the light housing out, (see the owners manual for replacing headlight bulbs for a diagram of the fascia) be careful doing this as you don't want to damage the fascia. When you get the light housing out, all you do is push the airbox intake tube down to disconnect it from the airbox, then pull it to the left to disengage it from the two fasteners. Now you can either dremmel or hacksaw the large resonator bellow off and pull everything through the top, or remove the plastic shields/airdam from the bottom of the bumper/engine and pull it out from below which will take 15 minutes to do, compared to cutting the one piece off will take only five.
 
#9 · (Edited)
Nothing, the airbox (top and bottom) is secured to the right front fender. The air intake tube located in the fender well area is attached to the bottom of the airbox through a hole in the fender. After you remove the tube, the airbox will be taking in a larger unrestricted amount of air from the fender well area through the existing fender well hole.

You can go to Air intake system G6 and see the diagram of the intake system and how everything is attached.
 
#13 ·
sleepless said:
dude I did it and it sounds a little deeper at a stand still, and when I get into it on the road after 2nd gear it gets quit agian. I hope this helps the engine run a little cooler it allways runs at 200*F, how much horse pawer do you think you gain from doing this???
There is no real HP gain, just better throttle response and more sound. :)
 
#14 ·
Yes, just better throtlle response and more sound. I put the K&N panel filter in so maybe 3 or 4 hp if you can believe K&N's claims and if I'm lucky. I did it purely for sound and a little better pick up. On a side note, I did notice my MPG went from 18 to 21 with the AC on which is an improvement, so I'm happy about that.
 
#15 ·
OK, I did mine Yesterday....a few things....

1) If your like me and want to avoid a problem if something was to happen with the MAF or anything with induction and you wont want crap from the dealer about warranty issues, then DO NOT cut or dremel the pieces. When removing it, just removing the clips from the right front fender and it will give it plenty of play to pull it all out in one piece so it can be put back in.

2) I didn't notice any difference at idol for sound.....I really dono how you got a v8 sound, it doesnt sound like my v8 :D I did notice a much deeper tone at WOT at lower RPM's and a loud sucking noise in between gears, along with the transmission squeal. :mad: You wont notice a power gain, its a very minimal mod, but its worth it to do.

If anyone needs help, PM me
 
#17 ·
Your transmission hasnt squealed when it shifts at WOT? I know a lot of people are having the same thing, its nothing bad.
 
#19 ·
The sqeal is NOT the transmission as said above. There is a TSB out on it that say it is the serpentine belt. I took the car in this week and they special ordered a new belt because they didn't have it in stock. The part number on the receipt is 12591059. Take a trip to the shop and get it fixed!
 
#24 ·
I have the same problem you all are having. When I give it WOT on the road it squeals right before it changes gears. My trans dosent change gears very smooth either, one thing ive noticed is that when I hold the gas down then let up a little It changes gears allot smoother
 
#25 ·
mine spueals through half way threw first to the begining of the second and im sure it would go on but i dont normally try to break the law to bad, but just yesterday i sprayed a tad bit of wd-40 on the moving parts on the alternator and a little on the moving parts conected to the serpente and now the spueal is 1/20 as it was it only makes a noise at shift wish now sounds normal!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I am glad that darn noise is gone it was giving me nightmares!

sorry for my lack of tecnical terms I just turned 19 at the end of july, and this is my first car.
 
#26 ·
I just did this today on my GTP, it's the same exact piece. But you don't need to do any cutting. You just have to remove the tube with both resonators on it from all the bushings that attach it to the car, I think there were 3: towards the front of the car, underneath the larger resonator on the bottom, and right below the intake box, you can't really see it you need to feel around for it. But once you pull all three off, you can pull the entire assembly out through the top.

Mike
 
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