New Tweets In Doors - Pontiac G6 Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-24-2014, 12:39 PM Thread Starter
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New Tweets In Doors

Hi All,

Just thought I'd share a cool pic with you of my front tweeter replacement.

These are SEAS 27TAFNC/G, available here:

http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com...-dome-tweeter/

A very high end tweeter at a bargain price for the performance. All I had to do was shave the stock hole in the door just a little with a thin box cutter type knife, and it's a perfect snap-in fit. I think they look pretty cool, and sound awesome too.

I paired them with these woofers, also very high end sound at a bargain price:

http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com...1/2-wool-cone/

These are a virtual drop-in in the stock woofer location - you'll need to drill a few extra screw holes in the plastic cut-out, and they don't fit perfectly flush, but it's only a millimeter or so of space.

This is a great upgrade to the factory speakers, and because the factory amp has a built-in crossover I didn't use any crossover components. The sound is terrific and makes driving the GXP just that much more enjoyable.

Now to the rear speakers - after I decide to take all the pieces out of the back to get to them, I plan on using an even less expensive tweeter with equivalent performance:

http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com...-dome-tweeter/

Since there is no surface-mount tweerter cutouts for the rears, the new tweets will be mounted down inside on a Scosche 6x9 conversion plate, along with a pair of the same woofers I'm using up front, so I'll be saving some money by going with these non-surface mount tweets, and getting the same quality sound.

I'm planning on keeping the factory 6x9s as subs, because they have such great bass - I'm just going to move them into the trunk and drop them into boxes.

The question I have for you guys is, are the rears also a 2-way design, with separate woofer and tweeter (and thus amp crossover)? Or are they just a single 6x9 fullrange? I'll still be able to use my design, but the separates make hooking things up easier.

Hope you enjoyed the pic, and thanks!
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-15-2014, 05:46 AM
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Cool. Been wanting to upgrade my highs. The monsoon system sounds good but is a little light in the high end.

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2009 Techno Gray Metallic G6 GXP Sedan (3.6L Auto6 112K miles)
---
CRAB Intake Opt 3 w/FPU, Lloyds GXP floor mats, HIDs low 6000k 55w/fog 3000k 35w, LED DRLs behind lower grills, V3 Triton LED turn signal/reverse/brake, LED side markers/maps/dome/tag/trunk/high mount stop, 2 coats niteshades on tails, Tint 35% all around, Debadged (except arrows), PAC IPod and BT adapters, PowerStop D/S rotors and ceramic pads, Resonator repl w/24" cherry bomb, Racingline STB, Big 3 Upgrade, Optima Yellowtop D75/25, Blacked out arrows, chrome window trim and black dipped wheels, KYB struts and shocks, CM lowering springs, Cherry Bomb Vortex Crossflow muffler, 2.5" pipe from axle back, two 4" stainless double walled slant tips
...still working...
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-16-2014, 08:44 AM Thread Starter
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Tweets

Quote:
Originally Posted by mshinall View Post
Cool. Been wanting to upgrade my highs. The monsoon system sounds good but is a little light in the high end.

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You will notice a huge difference. Yes the system is "light" in the highs - both due to the stock tweeters and I believe the electronics - I still have to dial up the highs on the head unit "Tone" control, but the sound is clean and clear nonetheless.

I recommend replacing all the speakers, but that's just my audiophile obsession coming through.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-02-2014, 05:17 AM
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I ended up doing the tweeters about a week ago. You were right. Huge difference!

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2009 Techno Gray Metallic G6 GXP Sedan (3.6L Auto6 112K miles)
---
CRAB Intake Opt 3 w/FPU, Lloyds GXP floor mats, HIDs low 6000k 55w/fog 3000k 35w, LED DRLs behind lower grills, V3 Triton LED turn signal/reverse/brake, LED side markers/maps/dome/tag/trunk/high mount stop, 2 coats niteshades on tails, Tint 35% all around, Debadged (except arrows), PAC IPod and BT adapters, PowerStop D/S rotors and ceramic pads, Resonator repl w/24" cherry bomb, Racingline STB, Big 3 Upgrade, Optima Yellowtop D75/25, Blacked out arrows, chrome window trim and black dipped wheels, KYB struts and shocks, CM lowering springs, Cherry Bomb Vortex Crossflow muffler, 2.5" pipe from axle back, two 4" stainless double walled slant tips
...still working...
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-03-2014, 11:15 AM Thread Starter
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Great!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by mshinall View Post
I ended up doing the tweeters about a week ago. You were right. Huge difference!

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They are excellent tweeters - some of the best at any price. Hopefully you will replace all four? And can you post pics?
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-03-2014, 02:01 PM
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I went with a different brand (RF) but here are the pics. Going to replace the rears also at some point when I do the 6x9s.





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2009 Techno Gray Metallic G6 GXP Sedan (3.6L Auto6 112K miles)
---
CRAB Intake Opt 3 w/FPU, Lloyds GXP floor mats, HIDs low 6000k 55w/fog 3000k 35w, LED DRLs behind lower grills, V3 Triton LED turn signal/reverse/brake, LED side markers/maps/dome/tag/trunk/high mount stop, 2 coats niteshades on tails, Tint 35% all around, Debadged (except arrows), PAC IPod and BT adapters, PowerStop D/S rotors and ceramic pads, Resonator repl w/24" cherry bomb, Racingline STB, Big 3 Upgrade, Optima Yellowtop D75/25, Blacked out arrows, chrome window trim and black dipped wheels, KYB struts and shocks, CM lowering springs, Cherry Bomb Vortex Crossflow muffler, 2.5" pipe from axle back, two 4" stainless double walled slant tips
...still working...
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-04-2014, 01:43 PM Thread Starter
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Tweets

What brand are they, and where did you buy them - online? Link?

Did you put in new woofers too?
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-04-2014, 02:47 PM
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Only did the front tweeters. Mid seems ok for now and I have a sub for the low end. These are Fosgate P1T-S and I got them on Amazon.

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2009 Techno Gray Metallic G6 GXP Sedan (3.6L Auto6 112K miles)
---
CRAB Intake Opt 3 w/FPU, Lloyds GXP floor mats, HIDs low 6000k 55w/fog 3000k 35w, LED DRLs behind lower grills, V3 Triton LED turn signal/reverse/brake, LED side markers/maps/dome/tag/trunk/high mount stop, 2 coats niteshades on tails, Tint 35% all around, Debadged (except arrows), PAC IPod and BT adapters, PowerStop D/S rotors and ceramic pads, Resonator repl w/24" cherry bomb, Racingline STB, Big 3 Upgrade, Optima Yellowtop D75/25, Blacked out arrows, chrome window trim and black dipped wheels, KYB struts and shocks, CM lowering springs, Cherry Bomb Vortex Crossflow muffler, 2.5" pipe from axle back, two 4" stainless double walled slant tips
...still working...
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-17-2015, 11:29 PM
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How did you put them in? Were the tweeter covers in the doors easy to remove?
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-19-2015, 12:06 PM Thread Starter
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Installing Tweeters

You do have to remove the door panels, which is a bit of a chore.

The stock tweeter covers are easy to remove - they have little plastic snap lock tabs that you just squeeze and they'll pop out. I believe the stock tweeters are attached to them too, so it all comes out together. Just clip the wires and the whole thing comes free.

If you're going to use the SEAS tweeters I recommend using quick disconnects to attach the wires - the tweeter lead wires going from the connect tabs are easily damaged and the heat from soldering can break them, and this cannot be repaired.

The tweeters will press-fit in to the stock holes, but you WILL have to use a box cutter knife or something similar to slightly enlarge the holes. This again requires care, as you don't want to remove too much material - only a few little slices here and there are necessary. If you over do it the tweeters won't have anything to grip on and you will have to use adhesive around the flange lip to make them stick. Also, you need to be careful handing the tweeters while pressing them in as again they are, unfortunately, easily damaged if mishandled on the back side - press from the front and make sure there is clearance for the metal wire connectors.

I hope this helps - it takes a little work and patience but this is one of the best tweeters on the market at any price, and the results will astound you if you've never heard anything at this performance level.
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-19-2015, 05:08 PM
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Was a pain to install new tweets in my sedan. Had to carve out holes in the sail panels.

2009 Techno Gray Metallic G6 GXP Sedan (3.6L Auto6 112K miles)
---
CRAB Intake Opt 3 w/FPU, Lloyds GXP floor mats, HIDs low 6000k 55w/fog 3000k 35w, LED DRLs behind lower grills, V3 Triton LED turn signal/reverse/brake, LED side markers/maps/dome/tag/trunk/high mount stop, 2 coats niteshades on tails, Tint 35% all around, Debadged (except arrows), PAC IPod and BT adapters, PowerStop D/S rotors and ceramic pads, Resonator repl w/24" cherry bomb, Racingline STB, Big 3 Upgrade, Optima Yellowtop D75/25, Blacked out arrows, chrome window trim and black dipped wheels, KYB struts and shocks, CM lowering springs, Cherry Bomb Vortex Crossflow muffler, 2.5" pipe from axle back, two 4" stainless double walled slant tips
...still working...
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-20-2015, 06:43 AM
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looks good
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-20-2015, 08:32 AM
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mshinall, did you remove the sail covers first, or just carve through them from the outside? I've got an 08 GXP Sedan, so I'll have to do the same. If you did remove the, how did you start and were there any major snags along the way?

- C0RSA1R

Corsair (noun) - a privateer or pirate

"Wicked": 87 Olds Cutlass Cruiser Wagon - totaled in blizzard
"Beast": 89 Buick Century Custom - totaled in driving sleet
"Cutty Sark": 97 Olds Cutlass Supreme - died too early
"Batmobile": 98 Cadillac Eldorado Touring Coupe - ditto
"Grey Ghost": 02 Infiniti I35 Sport - still ticking, needs new water pump
"Red Devil": 08 Pontiac G6 GXP - current ride
"My Boy Blue": 00 Ford Ranger XLT Club Cab - my hauler
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-20-2015, 09:45 AM
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I had to remove the entire door panel to remove the old speaker and wire the new speaker. The sail panel is plastic welded to the door panel so definitely don't try to remove it by itself.

2009 Techno Gray Metallic G6 GXP Sedan (3.6L Auto6 112K miles)
---
CRAB Intake Opt 3 w/FPU, Lloyds GXP floor mats, HIDs low 6000k 55w/fog 3000k 35w, LED DRLs behind lower grills, V3 Triton LED turn signal/reverse/brake, LED side markers/maps/dome/tag/trunk/high mount stop, 2 coats niteshades on tails, Tint 35% all around, Debadged (except arrows), PAC IPod and BT adapters, PowerStop D/S rotors and ceramic pads, Resonator repl w/24" cherry bomb, Racingline STB, Big 3 Upgrade, Optima Yellowtop D75/25, Blacked out arrows, chrome window trim and black dipped wheels, KYB struts and shocks, CM lowering springs, Cherry Bomb Vortex Crossflow muffler, 2.5" pipe from axle back, two 4" stainless double walled slant tips
...still working...
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-22-2015, 12:58 PM
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Understood. I need to find that thread on this forum that has the instructions for removing the door panel. I know I saw it before (it seemed like a godawfully complicated job), but I'm having trouble finding it now.

- C0RSA1R

Corsair (noun) - a privateer or pirate

"Wicked": 87 Olds Cutlass Cruiser Wagon - totaled in blizzard
"Beast": 89 Buick Century Custom - totaled in driving sleet
"Cutty Sark": 97 Olds Cutlass Supreme - died too early
"Batmobile": 98 Cadillac Eldorado Touring Coupe - ditto
"Grey Ghost": 02 Infiniti I35 Sport - still ticking, needs new water pump
"Red Devil": 08 Pontiac G6 GXP - current ride
"My Boy Blue": 00 Ford Ranger XLT Club Cab - my hauler
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