Installing and wiring the tweeter was a little trickier. First, I removed the factory tweeters (again, pieces of dookie) and clipped the wires - they will serve as leads to the new tweeters in their new locations.
Let's discuss the tweeter filter - see the attached diagram, courtesy of John Krutke of Zaph Audio (also available from Madisound, and see www.zaphaudio.com
). I highly recommend you use it, as opposed to just throwing on a protective capacitor, as this is a sophisticated unit and you will bring out its best performance if you do so. Ignore the woofer filter as I used a different one due to its size.
The filter consists of one resistor, one inductor, and two capacitors, and I managed to put them all together in a compact package that also fit into the space in the housing between the woofer drop-in and the tweeter cup.
I recommend you SOLDER
all of the connections between the crossover components, as well as the components leads to the wires, as they are solid. It is ok to use butt connectors, etc. to connect braided wires together, but anything involving solid single wires should be soldered.
The photo of the assembled filter isn't very detailed, but here is what you do to hook it up: Positive lead connects to resistor; inductor open lead goes to negative wire, open lead from second capacitor goes to tweeter positive, then tweeter negative also goes to negative wire.
I drilled several holes in the sides of the tweeter cup to run all the wires.