Speaker Upgrade - Pontiac G6 Forum
 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-17-2014, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
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Speaker Upgrade

Hi All,

I thought I'd share my speaker upgrade adventure with you, on my '08 GXP.

So far i have only done the doors, but that was the primary goal short-term - the rear speakers are much harder to get to, plus more money, so for now I'm gonna wait on that.

Here are the drivers I'm using:

Woofer: http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com...1/2-wool-cone/

Tweeter: http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com...-dome-tweeter/

Both drivers are very high value, i.e., very good performance for the price. The SEAS tweeter is probably one of the best autosound tweeters at any price, can can handle lots of power, are very low distortion, and can be crossed over exceptionally low - in this case 1850 Hz, if you use the filter I did.

Now, I'll try not to go into too much detail here,but if anybody would like additional info on the project, please feel free to post questions or shoot me a message.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-17-2014, 05:38 PM Thread Starter
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Speaker Housing

First, after removing the door panels (ugh!!!) I removed the housing holding the factory woofer, and disconnected it from the factory harness. The housing comes right off with the removal of just three bolts.

I realized that the housing would be perfect for both the new woofer and the tweeter, with the cup right above the woofer cut-out - maybe that's there for a factory upgrade?
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-17-2014, 05:44 PM Thread Starter
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Woofers

After removing the factory woofer (OMG what a piece of CR*P!!) the new Silver Flute woofers were a near-perfect drop-in - i had to drill new holes for them, but the factory screws worked fine. I positioned the woofers so that the connectors were exposed at the top of the cut-out, next to the soon-to-be tweeter housings.

I used a 0.33 MHz inductor to attenuate the woofers at around 2,000 Hz - they have a very smooth frequency response and I wanted to keep the filter architecture very simple here.

I used heavy duty mounting tape (2-sided) and zip ties to secure all the crossover compenents into the recesses of the housing. See supbsequent posts.
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Last edited by 08GXPsd; 02-17-2014 at 06:58 PM. Reason: Add text
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-17-2014, 05:52 PM Thread Starter
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Inductor

Here's a shot of the inductor installed - the housing has plenty of room to stuff crossover components.

I salvaged the factory harness connector from the factory woofer - this makes installing the new woofers a matter of simply clicking everything together as original, instead of splicing wires.

Removing the connector from the factory woofer is a little work - I clipped the wires from the woofer, then pried the connector off - CAREFULLY. Then I connected it to the new woofer lead wires. The leads on the factory connector are labelled "A" and "B" - I connected A to positive and B to negative.
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Last edited by 08GXPsd; 02-17-2014 at 05:56 PM. Reason: Add Photos
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-17-2014, 06:10 PM Thread Starter
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On to the Tweeter

Installing and wiring the tweeter was a little trickier. First, I removed the factory tweeters (again, pieces of dookie) and clipped the wires - they will serve as leads to the new tweeters in their new locations.

Let's discuss the tweeter filter - see the attached diagram, courtesy of John Krutke of Zaph Audio (also available from Madisound, and see www.zaphaudio.com). I highly recommend you use it, as opposed to just throwing on a protective capacitor, as this is a sophisticated unit and you will bring out its best performance if you do so. Ignore the woofer filter as I used a different one due to its size.

The filter consists of one resistor, one inductor, and two capacitors, and I managed to put them all together in a compact package that also fit into the space in the housing between the woofer drop-in and the tweeter cup.

NOTE: I recommend you SOLDER all of the connections between the crossover components, as well as the components leads to the wires, as they are solid. It is ok to use butt connectors, etc. to connect braided wires together, but anything involving solid single wires should be soldered.

The photo of the assembled filter isn't very detailed, but here is what you do to hook it up: Positive lead connects to resistor; inductor open lead goes to negative wire, open lead from second capacitor goes to tweeter positive, then tweeter negative also goes to negative wire.

I drilled several holes in the sides of the tweeter cup to run all the wires.
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Last edited by 08GXPsd; 02-17-2014 at 06:23 PM. Reason: Add Photo
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-17-2014, 06:38 PM Thread Starter
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Installing the Tweeter

Another tricky part - the tweeters can certainly be shoehorned in to the factory location in the door panels, where the factory tweeters are, but the distance between the woofers and tweeters in this configuration can cause phase issues, plus there is the issue of locating the crossovers. I wanted everything in one package/location, but this presented its own challenges.

The tweeter has a threaded hole in the back for an M4 bolt, but I didn't want to attach them way down in the bottom of the cups, as it would affect sound quality. So, I drilled out holes in the center of the cup floor, then installed 2" M4 bolts, and threaded nuts down on the inside of the cup to secure the bolt. As an added measure, I put two-part epoxy on the base of the bolt threads to make sure the bolt and nut would never part ways, giving the tweeter a solid, permanent mount. The 2" bolts also put the tweeters nearly at the top of the cups.

I attached the positive and negative wires to the tweeter (soldering also recommended here, but be careful - the lead wires into the tweeter are delicate and can easily break - so keep the soldering iron away from them), fed out some slack, and then screwed the tweeters down onto the M4 bolts, and it was done.
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Last edited by 08GXPsd; 02-17-2014 at 06:42 PM. Reason: Change pics
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-17-2014, 06:51 PM Thread Starter
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Final Touches

Next, I simply reinstalled the housing back into the door, then butt-connected the tweeter wires to the factory ones that used to run to the factory tweeters, and the job was done. Everything fit fine when reattaching the door panels.

How do they sound? BEAUTIFUL. This is true, clean, high-end sound that will make your factory system sound like junk, which it already did anyway without the comparison (and my GXP has the Monsoon system - oh well, junk speakers nonetheless). This is high value, high end sound for a very reasonable price, and i am looking forward to completing the system with the rear speakers in the near future.

Now, this is not a project for the timid - removing and reinstalling the door panels is hard enough, and making all the changes i did was a lot of work, so I don't recommend it unless you know your way around audio electronics, wiring, and soldering. But if you want to upgrade your system to real high fidelity and enjoy your commute for once, do something like this - it took me two weekends, which at the end of the day was well worth it.

So now, I'm open for questions and comments, if any. Thanks for reading.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-17-2014, 07:30 PM
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Is that a marette in the first picture with the inductor?

You mean .33mH inductor, not .33MHz inductor, right?

How come you used an inductor rather than a first order RC low pass filter for the woofer? It would have been significantly smaller and rolled off at the same rate.

I'm also curious why you chose a first order filter for the woofer, but a 3rd order filter for the tweeter?
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-17-2014, 08:42 PM Thread Starter
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Marette?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dmanj View Post
Is that a marette in the first picture with the inductor?

You mean .33mH inductor, not .33MHz inductor, right?

How come you used an inductor rather than a first order RC low pass filter for the woofer? It would have been significantly smaller and rolled off at the same rate.

I'm also curious why you chose a first order filter for the woofer, but a 3rd order filter for the tweeter?
1) Sorry - what's a "marette?"

2) Yes, i guess mH - thought they were the same tho.

3) I used an inductor because (doh!) I'm a home audio person mostly, and didn't think of the RC - so thanks for the tip! Don't know the cost difference, but the inductor was about $3.50, and given all the space there is under the housing, it wasn't much of an issue.

4) As I explained, the 3rd order filter for the tweeter was according to Zaph's design - it requires a steep slope because of the low crossover point - pretty much right at the limit of the tweeter's low end. The woofer can be crossed higher than the 2,000 point I set, and so didn't require as steep a slope - it has a smooth frequency response and no nasty break-ups on-axis. Crossover slopes do not need to be exactly the same for woofer and tweeter, and again, I went this route to be economical. And, if you look at Zaph's XO diagram, it's for his 5.25" aluminum woofer, which has much different characterisitcs than the Silver Flutes.'
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-17-2014, 09:56 PM
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A marette is a cone shaped connector used for connecting wires in home electrical circuits.

mH or milli Henrys is a measure of inductance. MHz or Mega Hertz is a measure of frequency.

A first order RC circuit would cost you maybe 10 cents depending where you get the parts.
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-18-2014, 09:17 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info. Yes then, that's a marette - but I took it off and soldered before final install.

Would you please show me an image of an RC circuit, and suggest a place to buy?
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-18-2014, 10:00 AM
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Personally, I would buy the components from digikey.com.

This is a first order RC low pass filter:

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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-24-2014, 01:49 PM Thread Starter
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Update - Moved Tweeters and Ditched Crossovers

Hi All,

Forget everything I said before - DO NOT re-route wires and put the tweeters down inside the doors, and DO NOT use crossovers - let the factory XO do its thing and just plug everything in to the factory locations. Not only do the tweets look cool, they sound much better too. I've learned the hard way to just make this a simple build. I used a small box cutter type knife to shave a little bit off the tweeter cut-outs in the doors, then it was a perfect press-in fit.

My apologies to anyone who may have attempted this project - I lead you astray.

As for the rear speakers - after I decide to take all the pieces out of the back to get to them, I plan on using an even less expensive tweeter with equivalent performance:

http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com...-dome-tweeter/

Since there is no surface-mount tweerter cutouts for the rears, the new tweets will be mounted down inside on a Scosche 6x9 conversion plate, along with a pair of the same woofers I'm using up front, so I'll be saving some money by going with these non-surface mount tweets, and getting the same quality sound.

I'm planning on keeping the factory 6x9s as subs, because they have such great bass - I'm just going to move them into the trunk and drop them into boxes.

Hope you enjoyed the pic, and thanks!
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