i thought i would share this one with you guys today sorry i dont have pics of it i am using my work computer to check on the site to help you all out as my laptop died and i am moving into a new house and my camera is packed away already but as soon as i get situated i will post some pics for you all to see anyone of you with bigger audio systems needs to read this carefully cuz it will help you get the most out of your system and all you need to test for this is using a multi-meter set on dc voltage
power/ground upgrades if you have a system in your car and are using 4 gauge wire or bigger then i would recommend you do a ground upgrade its really simp take a piece of 4 gauge wire and hook it up to your neg. battery terminal and to the frame of the car. just make sure you scrape off the paint first to get a good connection i just did my upgrade today cuz i had some free time at the shop.
that helps because when you have a weak ground voltage drops and when voltage drops current goes up leading to surges like headlights dimming dash lights flashing amps cutting out etc.
also if you have really big systems like mine i also recommend doing a power upgrade. that is simple also. all you have to do is run a bigger power wire from the alternator to the pos. batter post.
just remove the plastic cover over the top of the motor easily done. take off the oil cap and it snaps off in back and front you also have to take out the plastic tube where you pour in oil now in the back of the engine compartment on the pass. side at the top is the alternator those of you who cant identify it on your own please seek professional assistance.... now on the back of it is a black rubber cap covering a nut that is the power output that goes to the battery. it is only 8 gauge what i did for mine is i used 4 gauge and that should be fine for just about all of you unless you have a super high end system then use 0 guage take that nut off and hook up your new wire (******CAREFULL THAT IS A LIVE POWER SOURCE*****) and run it along the firewall to the battery POS. terminal and put a fuse holder near the batter 80 amp fuse should be fine and thats all you need to do just use some zip ties to hold that wire away from the motor to the firewall *** there is a wire loomed set of wires that goes along the whole way i just ziptied mine to that one and its good
this allows more power to flow through the charging system to the battery so once again you get MORE POWER before i did those 2 upgrades when my system was cranked up i was reading about 11.9 volts at the battery and 11.00 volts at the amps ***very bad*** the 0 gauge ground upgrade gave me 12.5 volts at the battery and about 11.6 volts at the amps and when i did the alternator upgrade i got 13.9 at the battery and no lower than 13.00 volts at the amps which is acceptable my next step is to a a stiffening cap 1 per amp and that should put me very close to 14 volts at the amps and when i go to upgrade my system it will be dual battery time
Assistant Store/Sales Manager for Mickey Shorr (car audio/video/remote start & alarms/window tinting)
if my system is too loud then YOUR TOO OLD!!!!!!