Changing the front sway bar bushings and links can give you greater control while steering. Upgrading to Polyurethane bushings and thicker links will greatly improve along with a lowering kit, new struts, strut bar, so here I will attempt to explain how to change links and bushings for those who are unsure!
1. Start out by putting on the E-Brake and choking the back wheels. After the wheels are secured, begin jacking up the front end from a safe location and place jackstands in a secure position and lower the jack.
2. Now with the vehicle safely raised, take the front wheels off. If you don't have an impact, you'll want to loosen the lug nuts before jacking the vehicle up otherwise you will never get those suckers off. Now what we have is the exposed work area.
You can see I have a wrench on the link as shown. One around the nut securing the link to the strut and one wrench around the link, otherwise youll just spin the link and never get the nut off. I believe the inner wrench is 3/4 and the outer wrench is for sure a 19mm. Once you have the top end of the end link removed, it is the same for the bottom as shown in picture two.
3. The sway bar link should now be free from the sway bar and strut tower and can be set aside. We now have *somewhat* open access to our bushings. Shown below is a picture with the link out of the way.
4. If you follow the sway bar up you will eventually see where it is held down at, our bushing is held down by a bracket. This bracket is held down by 2x 13MM bolts. Be careful not to rip the heads off of the bolts otherwise you will be drilling out and chasing threads. Use plenty of WD40 to lubricate and ensure a smooth extraction of the bolts. Below is a picture of the bushing, held down by the bracket. *Ignore that nasty looking rack and pinion..the boot is all kinds of messed up on it
5. For the bolt more towards the front, we can easily squeeze a 13MM socket and ratchet in there to remove it. As for the other, you will most likely have to crawl underneath and remove it from the other side of the bracket using a 12PT 13MM wrench which is what I found easiest. Once you have freed the bracket, it should pull right off and the bushing should be able to pull right off the sway bar as well. Below is a picture of what the passenger side sway bar bushing location looks like with no bushing or bracket.
6. As you can see there is a raised ridge on each side where the bushing sits. This will make the job a little more difficult and requires some elbow grease. The driver side does not have these ridges and is a very quick and painless job. If you bought Polyurethane bushings like I did from Energy Suspension, you'll have to cut the sides to allow it to fit.
7. Be sure to grease the spot where the bushing will sit and grease the inside of the bushing prior to sliding it into position. Also, be sure the spot the bushing will sit is clear of rust and dirt.
8. It will take quite a bit of elbow grease to get the bushing in place. I found the best technique to just keep separating the bushing as much as possible while pushing it over the ridges. Once in place, slide the bracket back over the bushing and slide the washers over the bolts that came with the new bushings. I had trial and error securing the bracket and found that it was easier to get the back bolt started as much as I could by hand threading and then start the front bolt. Once you have them both hand tightened as much as possible, go back to the back bolt and tighten it down. Now the front bolt can easily be bolted down without difficulty. Ratchet it down with your 13mm socket and your set! Finish off by putting two pumps of quality grease into the bushing! Unfortunately I forgot to take a picture of the final product in place, but hopefully someone who doesn't know how to change sway bar bushings will take a shot at this!
9. When putting your new links in, just place them in the hole in the sway bar and strut tower and put the nuts provided on the end. Just as you took them off, put a wrench on each end and tighten down!