Let me explain nitrous to you in a nutshell. SAVE YOUR MONEY! Wait on forced induction for this car that's more permenant then a bottle.
Here's what you looking at cost wise for nitrous.
Kit: wet or dry is gonna run you about 500 bucks on the low end
Bottle Warmer: about 100 bucks to maintain pressure.
Purge Kit: About another 100 bucks to save from getting air in your lines. (Yes that's horrible for your motor)
Air/Fuel Ratio Guage: about 80 bucks depending on what you get. You have to keep your eye on it to make sure you're not leaning out your engine.
Nitrous Guage: About another 80 bucks to keep an eye on the pressure in the bottle.
No doubt extra 4an line. Which is about 4 bucks a foot. Count on buying at least 10 feet of this stuff.
Professional Computer Tuning/Dyno Pull: You want to do this to get the most of your kit, and to make sure you don't detonate your motor. You'll spend in the neighborhood of 200 bucks.
Oh yeah, by the way. You've got about 1 minute and 10 seconds of use out of that bottle. Nitrous is about 4.50 a lb (10lb bottle) and has probably gone up since I stopped using it. So count on about 45 bucks a fill up. Fill it even 10 times and you're at 450.
So lets do some math. Your at about $1650 and you've gained around 75hp at the flywheel. Even if you ran a 100 shot, you gain about 60hp at the wheels. Not a bad improvement
Understand that I'm not trying to insinuate anything, but any moron can strap a bottle down in a car and run nitrous. But you NEED the above things to run it right and not cause youself long term problems. People think it's a cheap way to add big power. Well it can be, but it can be a cheap way to blow up an engine as well.