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2007 G6 "Top Not Secure" Error

580 Views 5 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  tmbrian
5
Currently, the top will not move when I push the button- only the warning message flashes "Top Not Secure". It appears the sensor have locked out the top to prevent damage. Cannot hear any pump running while holding the button. The top is about 1 inch from closing with the trunk still opened from the top coming out. I scanned the car with the ThinkCAR reader and received the following error codes:
B3685-59
B3683-58
B1010-08

I checked the pump and the hydraulic fluid is half way up the tank. No visible leaks. Car has low miles of 57K. Removed cap off the refill tank.

Tried pushing the top closed but it feels like is it binding. Not sure how much force can be applied without doing damage. I have never manually raised and lowered the top by hand. Can I remove the screw off top of the pump to relieve pressure to get it to close?

Would greatly appreciate any advise on how to troubleshoot this. I have attached a few pictures to help see the issue.

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My best guess would be a problem with the dowel pin sense switch, it is on the drivers side of the windscreen down in the hole that the big dowel pins on the front of the roof drop into. If memory serves it is a two position switch. The first position senses the roof is resting in place, ready to lock and once the lock is applied it senses it fully down and secure. You might find the top will reverse into the open position, and this would allow you to double check there are no obstructions. You could also put a screwdriver, biro into the hole and feel it click. If your scan tool allows it might even show the switch setting and let you see it toggle when pressed.

If it were mine I would
  1. See if the top will open so that I could check for obstructions
  2. Manually probe, test the switch function
  3. Move the top into the closed / resting position and see if wiggling / applying gentle pressure makes a difference. Remember the sense switch could be faulty, it could be the top is not pushing on the switch at all, or pushing too firmly so the top is considered locked when it should be resting.

Good luck getting it fixed. From the service manual...

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Nice scan tool by the way. Perhaps you can post more detail, especially as it is able to read the majority of modules on the car. Perhaps you can tell us if it will show the folding top switch positions as well.
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Nice scan tool by the way. Perhaps you can post more detail, especially as it is able to read the majority of modules on the car. Perhaps you can tell us if it will show the folding top switch positions as well.
Thanks Boomer for all the information,

Here is the link to the scanner. It is pretty nice for $100. It has a yearly subscription.

I was able to program the G6 key fob remotes with this scanner as well. I found out about this scanner from this forum.
I cleared the fault codes now I am only getting the B1010 code.

I did some more testing with the scanner and it can see some other items. I will attach the images to share.
I do not see now to test the individual switches. I think I would need the Tech2.

When I push the button the top will not move forward or backwards. No sounds from the pump or motor only the dinging and the message "top not secure"

Where is the fill line on the hydraulic tank? Is it about half way up the tank for full?

Any tip on how to get the trunk to come back down?

Kind Regards,
TMBRIAN

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Nice.

The datastream jpg has a number of the switch positions and the descriptions read about the same as the Tech II. I would expect 'RCL Front switch ready to latch' would be the one to watch.

The hydraulic pump usually has a fill line sticker on it, but yes, it is full when about half way up.

The normal way for the trunk to close is after the sense switch I mentioned in the reply shows the top to be resting in position ready to latch. After that the trunk closes and finally the roof will secure.
After removing the headliner, I found out the that one of the rods came apart at the ball joint on the driver side. I believe another member called this part a striker arm in another post. I attached an image and labeled the rod #4 that came apart. I fastened it back and lubed up all the tops articulating joints I could reach with wd-40 dry lube. I had to jiggle the roof around a few times to get the top closed enough for the dowel pin to make the connection with the sensor. I pushed the button and the top started moving again. I am going to leave the headliner out for a few days to make sure the connection does not come apart again.
Also, I found this video on YouTube very helpful for understanding how to remove the headliner. Shout out to Kelly M for posting this video.

Thanks for all the information and guidance Boomer. Glad to have the top working again since the weather is warming up. :cool:

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