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Discussion Starter #1
My daughter has an 08 HTC and one night she tried taking the top down but it stopped during the trunk closing over. We slowly pushed the trunk close but suddenly the trunk hinges popped up (see picture) and nothing will work.

I thought I’d be smart and disconnect the trunk from the back section to see if I could connect the trunk lid to the hinges but now it’s off and I can get it latched to either end.

Any help would be appreciated!
 

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I would start by saying I have never had to do this and I am just thinking what I might try to get things back together again. If it were mine, I would be looking to get the trunk lid reconnected to the normal opening hinges on both sides. I would see if I could get to the convertible pump cover and loosen the pressure release hex screw and attempt to manually move the claws that attached to the small white hydraulic ram in pic 1. Basically an attempt to get the trunk lid held in place properly by the main hinges with the claws re-secured. If I could not move the claws by hand I would try unclipping / removing the hydraulic rams so that the claw would move freely. If I were able to get the trunk lid back in place that would leave the reversing hinge being out of place. With the pressure released on the pump that should also be possible to carefully push back into position, possibly using the locating pin holes with a bar for leverage if needed.

What is a little strange is that in the two long slots in the second picture there are claw hooks that are supposed to clamp round the metal wheel like objects near the locating pins on the trunk lid. These are supposed to prevent the trunk lid coming away like yours did, yet they seem to be retracted.

Best of luck and hope you manage to fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Are the center flap and batwings hydraulically activates too?

Attaching the trunk back on the rear arm was easier than I thought. I was also able to reach down and turn the bolt to depressurize the hydraulic system and if I can raise the center cover and flaps I would like to at least put the roof back up so the car can be used as a normal coupe.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
OK, so I disconnected the pistons for the trunk, hammered the clamps out of the way, muscled the trunk onto the pegs and hammered the clamps back into the locked position. I resealed the electro hydraulic pump and started the car. It started the process of closing the lid but the trunk lid never started to rise.

Could I have hammered the clamps in too tight and it can't loosen them on its own?
 

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The bat wing cover moves mechanically with the roof from what I recall. There is no hydraulics for it. The bat wings are driven by cables like the ones you find for bicycle brakes. If you lift the top by hand the cover should lift at the right point. Two people should be able to lift the roof back up, sometimes it is easier if a third is available to operate the roof switch so that you get a bit of an assist from the hydraulics.

If you have got to the point where the reverse cam trunk opening has happened but the roof will not lift, it has often been the experience that the main hydraulic rams are weak / failing / leaking. If you lift the top by hand you may still get the hydraulics to complete the roof and trunk close. You may need to check the fluid level on the convertible pump as it there has been a leak it may get too low to operate.

At that point you may need to consider if the roof is staying put forever or if you are going to send the main cylinders off to Top Hydraulics for repair. If you are considering a repair, do yourself a favour and remove the covers by the rear seats that go down to the front seat belts and leave them hanging in the back of the car. This will allow you to get to the clips to remove the main hydraulic rams without losing the skin on your hand.

Sounds like you have done a great job so far. Wish you all the best to get the roof up and sealed.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks boomer for your replies and suggestion. I wouldn’t have gotten this far if you hadn’t suggested removing the pistons to move the claw manually!

So I kept thinking and decided to check the areas I was working on because during my hammering my wife and I saw something thin and shiny fall. I made nothing of it but now I realize that it’s the metal piece to one of the switches to activate it.

If you look at the picture it looks like a switch to tell the car that the claws have fully retracted. I’ve searched for the part number on the switch PA66-GF15 but can’t find it. Does anyone have a spare switch I can buy to scavenge the metal depressor?
 

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I have had one of the metal strips ping off before and was able to re-attach it. Perhaps take a look at the other side and see how it clips in. Also make sure you can feel the click as you press on it to ensure it is making contact correctly. On mine the metal strip had a split in one end to allow it to flex with small pins extending out at 90 degrees that fit into the top of the switch. I recall pushing it out a little with a screwdriver to give it a bit more tension once it was back in place, but gently so that I did not bend it

The photo is a bit out of focus, but hopefully you get the idea and have one on the other side to compare
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Unfortunately the room is collapsed in the trunk and the tab has fallen down far below so I can't get to it! I've been calling any and all salvage yards within a reasonable distance but nobody has a G6 convertible. Now I'm contacting eBay sellers as I would like to see if I can get the switch or metal tab more cheaply than $50 for a new OEM one!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Part No. 10364428
Part Description SWITCH, Rear Compartment Lid Release or Ajar
Location Right
Part Notes
CONVERTIBLE, SIDE HINGE ASSEMBLY
Manufacturer GM.
 
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