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hey guys new guy here, i have a 2009 pontiac G6 2.4L and got a p0011 p0010 code indicating that the camshaft position actuator intake solenoid was bad at the dealer. i saw a pic on justanswer.pontiac that help clarify which was the intake and exhaust actuator solenoid. i tested both for continuity and resistance and did receive both reading 13.2 ish ohm. what got to me was that it looked like the connectors weren't on the correct actuator solenoid but not sure :confused:. the wires i saw on the intake camshaft actuator were (purple and brown) and on the exhaust were (white and green). correct me if i'm wrong for which set of wires goes where. thanks guys.
 

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The connectors are keyed differently & cannot be reversed.

The static resistance can be ok & the solenoid can still be bad. They are a fairly problematic part. Test for infinite resistance between each terminal and the solenoid valve housing. If not infinite they are shorted.

Have you kept up with oil changes because oil viscosity plays a role in their performance.

It could also be a problem with the harness or connector but typically it's the solenoid itself that's bad.
 

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The connectors are keyed differently & cannot be reversed.
thanks for the reply greenman its kinda strange cause the check engine light comes and goes and i'm wondering if the dealer screwed me, because when i took the car in they took 2hrs to bring a piece of paper with the code on it and charged me $80 bucks :banghead: the CEL would come and go and also my low beam bulb connector was melting causing the low beam bulb on the passenger side to go out, and that could have cause a malfunction as well. i am going to double check again with my multimeter and see what happen.
 

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thanks for the reply greenman its kinda strange cause the check engine light comes and goes and i'm wondering if the dealer screwed me, because when i took the car in they took 2hrs to bring a piece of paper with the code on it and charged me $80 bucks :banghead: the CEL would come and go ...
They very often fail intermittently. Since you have a dealer's diagnosis I would assume they ruled out the harness already.
 

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They very often fail intermittently. Since you have a dealer's diagnosis I would assume they ruled out the harness already.
they didnt say anything about the harness but it is also wrapped in electrical tape. i will double check in the morning everything and write them down and see if the numbers add up.
 

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... the CEL would come and go and also my low beam bulb connector was melting causing the low beam bulb on the passenger side to go out, and that could have cause a malfunction as well. i am going to double check again with my multimeter and see what happen.
A burned headlamp connector won't light the MIL.

The cause of connector melting is corrosion of the connector terminals producing an increase in electrical resistance across the terminals. It doesn't take much resistance in such a high current circuit like the headlamps to produce a lot of localized heat. OEM connector plastic usually has a relatively low melting point. The best way to prevent corrosion is using dielectric silicone grease on the terminals & the lamp bases. It makes all the difference in the world.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
A burned headlamp connector won't light the MIL.

The cause of connector melting is corrosion of the connector terminals producing an increase in electrical resistance across the terminals. It doesn't take much resistance in such a high current circuit like the headlamps to produce a lot of localized heat. OEM connector plastic usually has a relatively low melting point. The best way to prevent corrosion is using dielectric silicone grease on the terminals & the lamp bases. It makes all the difference in the world.
i just about rechecking my readings and the connectors are in fact keyed. the intake resistance reading was 14.5 ohm and the exhaust was 11.1 ohm. is the intake going of course or what?

i will also get some of the dielectric grease

thanks much.
 

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...the intake resistance reading was 14.5 ohm and the exhaust was 11.1 ohm. is the intake going of course or what?
Those values are close enough to spec. Unfortunately, they often don't tell the story because you aren't testing them while they work. I would just replace the intake solenoid. In fact, I'd replace them both now but I'll leave that up to you to decide.
 

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Those values are close enough to spec. Unfortunately, they often don't tell the story because you aren't testing them while they work. I would just replace the intake solenoid. In fact, I'd replace them both now but I'll leave that up to you to decide.
i guess i will have to replace them then. thanks much greenman:glasses:
 

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Put some clean engine oil on the o-ring of the new part before installing it & tighten to 89 lb in.

You might also just try clearing the codes first & seeing if they come back. A basic code reader that can clear codes will only set you back 20 bucks now. If the codes return soon after then the problem wasn't a one-off.
 

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Put some clean engine oil on the o-ring of the new part before installing it & tighten to 89 lb in.

You might also just try clearing the codes first & seeing if they come back. A basic code reader that can clear codes will only set you back 20 bucks now. If the codes return soon after then the problem wasn't a one-off.
thanks again greenman will do. is there a site that you or anybody else know of that may have the actuator solenoids, or i may have to get them at the dealer?
 
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