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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2009 G6 GT 3.5l that cranks and drives untill I shut off then will not crank untill I let it sit for about 1 hr. Then it will crank over. It is not over heating the temp holds at 170-185.
 

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"Cranking" usually means the starter motor is spinning the engine. Or, are you saying the engine is getting spun, by the starter motor, but not starting ? These are totally two different problems. Your post makes it sound like the starter motor will not operate until it sit for an hour. Cars used to come with a tool called a CRANK that was used to turn (crank) the engine over, by hand, to start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
"Cranking" usually means the starter motor is spinning the engine. Or, are you saying the engine is getting spun, by the starter motor, but not starting ? These are totally two different problems. Your post makes it sound like the starter motor will not operate until it sit for an hour. Cars used to come with a tool called a CRANK that was used to turn (crank) the engine over, by hand, to start.
You are right the starter will not spin unless it sits for about an hour. The battery and alternator are both less then 1 year old. When this happens I try jumping the car, tapping the starter, I have tried crossing the starter solenoid (which then the starter will spin but not engag flywheel), i have tried switching the stater and run relays with different relays but none of those works but to just let it sit
 

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I would see if I could manually crank the engine with a 1/2" Breaker Bar and Socket and see if it spins freely when warm. If it doesn't you have an engine problem. That would mean there is simply too much resistance for the Starter to turn the motor over. If it spins freely your Starter is probably not getting enough voltage to turn it over. Check for full Voltage at the Starter. If you are getting 12+ Volts down there the Starter needs to be pulled and checked out. Odds are you would need a new Starter motor.
 

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You could have a broken ground wire somewhere, it can cause a drain on the battery, suggestion would be to light test your wiring
A simple Test light will NOT diagnose the problem correctly! It will only tell you that you have an open or complete circuit. It will NOT tell you if you have a Voltage Drop in that wire or the connections with it! You can have one strand left of a multi strand cable and your test light will say you have a complete circuit, but it isn't allowing enough current to operate a component effectively. A DMM (Digital Multi Meter) meter will measure exactly how much current you are getting through that cable to your Starter etc. It will also measure those Voltage Drops on each connection. You could easily be losing .5 Volt or more with a corroded or loose connection! Those meters are very reasonably priced these days and every person who works on their cars should learn how to use and own one.
 

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Replace the starter.
And what do you do when that new Starter won't crank the engine?? If you can't properly diagnose a problem and do what is necessary maybe you need to let the trained people fix it. Any monkey can swap parts out and hope that solves the problem.
 

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And what do you do when that new Starter won't crank the engine?? If you can't properly diagnose a problem and do what is necessary maybe you need to let the trained people fix it. Any monkey can swap parts out and hope that solves the problem.
Hey, duchebag.... In the late '80s and through the 90s a lot of general motors vehicles especially with the 3XXX engines had issues with insufficient heat shielding for some of their starters. The starter would get hot during standard operation of the vehicle. Then when you stop the starter would absolutely refuse to crank the vehicle back over. You would have to allow the vehicle to cool down sufficiently in order for the starter to properly engage and function again. Since you are clearly an automotive engineer, why don't you explain to me in great detail how you plan on troubleshooting something where variable thermal properties are involved. Any monkey can come on here and sound like a smartass. I have experienced this issue on my own personal vehicles. It can only be one of two things. It is either the starter, or the starter relay. And since the relay is only used during the cycle that causes the starter to engage, it is highly unlikely that is the issue since power flow through it is not continuos. The owner states that the vehicle will not even crank over until it cools down. Even with the engine creating some sort of resistance, you would still be able to hear the starter making attempts to cycle. That is not what he is describing.
Since we are on the topic of people who obviously have no idea what they're talking about, let's go ahead and discuss some of your theories! Tell me exactly what you think is happening inside this engine that causes it to lock up to the point where it is beyond the starters capability to rotate. Perhaps the journals on the crankshaft are expanding to the point where they're locking up the motor. Or do you think maybe the links in the timing chain are expanding and causing it to not be able to turn anymore? Hey, don't forget those camshaft bearings! They could be a real pain in the butt. Or maybe the connecting rods are getting longer thus pushing the Pistons into the bottom of the head?
I also absolutely love the fact that I'm getting crap from a guy who also recommended replacing the starter only a few posts higher. Absolutely adorable....
 

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Hey, duchebag.... In the late '80s and through the 90s a lot of general motors vehicles especially with the 3XXX engines had issues with insufficient heat shielding for some of their starters. The starter would get hot during standard operation of the vehicle. Then when you stop the starter would absolutely refuse to crank the vehicle back over. You would have to allow the vehicle to cool down sufficiently in order for the starter to properly engage and function again. Since you are clearly an automotive engineer, why don't you explain to me in great detail how you plan on troubleshooting something where variable thermal properties are involved. Any monkey can come on here and sound like a smartass. I have experienced this issue on my own personal vehicles. It can only be one of two things. It is either the starter, or the starter relay. And since the relay is only used during the cycle that causes the starter to engage, it is highly unlikely that is the issue since power flow through it is not continuos. The owner states that the vehicle will not even crank over until it cools down. Even with the engine creating some sort of resistance, you would still be able to hear the starter making attempts to cycle. That is not what he is describing.
Since we are on the topic of people who obviously have no idea what they're talking about, let's go ahead and discuss some of your theories! Tell me exactly what you think is happening inside this engine that causes it to lock up to the point where it is beyond the starters capability to rotate. Perhaps the journals on the crankshaft are expanding to the point where they're locking up the motor. Or do you think maybe the links in the timing chain are expanding and causing it to not be able to turn anymore? Hey, don't forget those camshaft bearings! They could be a real pain in the butt. Or maybe the connecting rods are getting longer thus pushing the Pistons into the bottom of the head?
I also absolutely love the fact that I'm getting crap from a guy who also recommended replacing the starter only a few posts higher. Absolutely adorable....
Since you need to be a complete smart ass you obviously DO NOT know how to properly troubleshoot a problem I will not even try to explain how an engine is harder to start after it has warmed up! I will also not even try to explain how to use test equipment to verify a problem component! I am a retired Educator who has taught and trained PROFESSIONAL Technicians HOW to PROPERLY diagnose a problem! I suggest you take a class or two!
 

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Since you need to be a complete smart ass you obviously DO NOT know how to properly troubleshoot a problem I will not even try to explain how an engine is harder to start after it has warmed up! I will also not even try to explain how to use test equipment to verify a problem component! I am a retired Educator who has taught and trained PROFESSIONAL Technicians HOW to PROPERLY diagnose a problem! I suggest you take a class or two!
I'm sure you are... Everyone is a professional on the internet, right...
 

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I'm sure you are... Everyone is a professional on the internet, right...
I was not only a Professional Technician I TAUGHT Professional Technicians! Like I said, take a class or two from Professional Instructors on how to properly work on cars and learn something!
 

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The OP left out a lot of helpful background info(miles on car, original starter?, climate of location). ALL these things come into play when trying to help someone thru the "net"(sight unseen).
The OP has not responded after their 2nd post and thread then hijacked and turned into a "pissing" contest!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The OP left out a lot of helpful background info(miles on car, original starter?, climate of location). ALL these things come into play when trying to help someone thru the "net"(sight unseen).
The OP has not responded after their 2nd post and thread then hijacked and turned into a "pissing" contest!
Ok so here are some new and old things.
I live in PA just changed out starter (still doing it) even if the engine cools and still will not start for 1 hr or more. The other day it took 3 hr to let me start again. When this happens when I try to start the car nothing happens but the dash lights comes on no sounds no starter running nothing but lights. To me it acts like a switch or something that tells the car "ok I'm ready to start" is not releasing right away but I have no idea. I have a mechanic working with me but he still can not figure it out either.
 

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Ok so here are some new and old things.
I live in PA just changed out starter (still doing it) even if the engine cools and still will not start for 1 hr or more. The other day it took 3 hr to let me start again. When this happens when I try to start the car nothing happens but the dash lights comes on no sounds no starter running nothing but lights. To me it acts like a switch or something that tells the car "ok I'm ready to start" is not releasing right away but I have no idea. I have a mechanic working with me but he still can not figure it out either.
Nice to hear back from you, but sorry that even with a "mechanic's" help that there is still a problem.
IF mine, I'd start out checking and cleaning battery terminal clamps and posts. Then recheck neg cable wires to body and motor. I've seen this on a couple GM cars now, that cable ends are there and tight but corroded and insulating against a good connection.
BTW I'm somewhat near Bradford, PA (50 miles+/_), If you're near there, then yes watch out for ground (neg) cables at both ends. And how old is the battery and has charging system been checked for output when you can get it started?
EDIT : I see 1 year old... have the battery digitally load tested, may have a bad cell
 

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Sorry, I forgot about my next item to check suggestion, Check the shift cable end for wear, it may not be allowing full movement to park position which is also like a neutral safety switch out on the trans. You might be able to "self do" when your problem happens by moving the shifter to neutral position and see if it then cranks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Sorry, I forgot about my next item to check suggestion, Check the shift cable end for wear, it may not be allowing full movement to park position which is also like a neutral safety switch out on the trans. You might be able to "self do" when your problem happens by moving the shifter to neutral position and see if it then cranks.
I will have to check everything else you said but I do know it will not crank in neutral. Do you think it might be the neutral safety switch?
 

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Some folk(techs) may call it the trans. range selector switch, but if the shift cable end is worn it could not be aligning properly and may be between contacts. Even though the shift lever inside the car shows what gear you're in. I would NOT rush to change that part.
 
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