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Discussion Starter #1
O.K....so, I THINK I have a bad water pump. Leaking fluid, and can't find the leak in the obvious places (hoses, clamps, resevoir, etc.), but definately a drip coming down underneath the water pump. Hoping that's the problem, I'm going to replace it. A fellow mechanic friend told me this pump "may be" timing belt driven, and I believe that to be true looking at the new pump. Any ideas, suggestions, tips, difficulties would be greatly appreciated.

TX

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Due to the amount of disassembly needed to replace the pump, I've seen more than one reference to owners doing other things at the same time like replacing the thermostat, resealing the coolant crossover tube (3.9 engine) and flushing and replacing the coolant itself. (I did these.) It would be immeasurable help if you could have access to the service procedures before you begin. Cooling system ailments often expand to consume more time and money than anticipated. Don't know what the average life is of these pumps, but I've seen several that needed replacing before 50K miles which is unfortunate. Good luck.
 

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I also just recently went through all of this and still have most of the service procedure documents saved on my computer. If you want them, let me know and we can discuss that in a private conversation. However, one thing to note, make SURE that you refill the system the correct way, either doing the convoluted service instructions for it, or using a vacuum fill method. I did not, and now mine's in the shop. Also, I can agree with above by saying that, to get to the water pump, all of these things have to either come off to get to it, or are easy to access when you're down that far and should/could be replaced while you're in there.
  • cross over pipe gaskets (Where mine was leaking)
  • thermostat (preventative maintenance)
  • water pump (where yours may be leaking and long-term preventative)
  • serpentine belt (if hasn't been replaced in a long time and needs it)
  • power steering pump (mine was leaking from the return line here as well)
  • Radiator supply and return hoses (one is directly in the area, and the other has to come detached anyway, so might as well replace them while you're in there. Take out the headlights to get to the clamps if they're turned weird.)
  • a bunch of o-rings can and should be replaced when you take it apart and put it back together. Specifically the ones to the power-steering pump, and the plastic return hose connector that has the black metal pipe in it that runs along the front of the engine to the coolant reservoir.
  • the infamous "Coolant Tee" directly under the main coolant reservoir which is cleaner to do with the system drained. I just took it out and went to ace hardware and found a plumbing fitting that would work. brass is best here, but a good grade plastic is good too. avoid galvanized and black metal steel as they will eventually make more problems.
Again, you don't have to do any/all of these, and upon re-reading I realized I should mention that this is for my 3.9L and if you're running the 2.4 or 3.5 it may be different. But the 3.5 and 3.9 seem to be somewhat similar to me, so i don't know for sure. I hope this was helpful! Oh, also, if you're mechanically inclined and have all the tools and maybe a friend who can help out, it can be done in an afternoon.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I also just recently went through all of this and still have most of the service procedure documents saved on my computer. If you want them, let me know and we can discuss that in a private conversation. However, one thing to note, make SURE that you refill the system the correct way, either doing the convoluted service instructions for it, or using a vacuum fill method. I did not, and now mine's in the shop. Also, I can agree with above by saying that, to get to the water pump, all of these things have to either come off to get to it, or are easy to access when you're down that far and should/could be replaced while you're in there.
  • cross over pipe gaskets (Where mine was leaking)
  • thermostat (preventative maintenance)
  • water pump (where yours may be leaking and long-term preventative)
  • serpentine belt (if hasn't been replaced in a long time and needs it)
  • power steering pump (mine was leaking from the return line here as well)
  • Radiator supply and return hoses (one is directly in the area, and the other has to come detached anyway, so might as well replace them while you're in there. Take out the headlights to get to the clamps if they're turned weird.)
  • a bunch of o-rings can and should be replaced when you take it apart and put it back together. Specifically the ones to the power-steering pump, and the plastic return hose connector that has the black metal pipe in it that runs along the front of the engine to the coolant reservoir.
  • the infamous "Coolant Tee" directly under the main coolant reservoir which is cleaner to do with the system drained. I just took it out and went to ace hardware and found a plumbing fitting that would work. brass is best here, but a good grade plastic is good too. avoid galvanized and black metal steel as they will eventually make more problems.
Again, you don't have to do any/all of these, and upon re-reading I realized I should mention that this is for my 3.9L and if you're running the 2.4 or 3.5 it may be different. But the 3.5 and 3.9 seem to be somewhat similar to me, so i don't know for sure. I hope this was helpful! Oh, also, if you're mechanically inclined and have all the tools and maybe a friend who can help out, it can be done in an afternoon.

Nup,

Thanks for all that info!.....already had the "T" go bad about 6 months ago, but, yes, I plan on the serpentine, thermostat, but not the crossover as I have the 3.5. Doesn't look like too bad of a job, but I will have to investigate the re-filling of the system....Thanks so much!!!

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Yes....If you had said that yours is the 2.4 four, I would have said "too bad". The procedure for the V6's is pretty straightforward. It's probably leaking through the "weep hole" which is typical when the bearing goes.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yes....If you had said that yours is the 2.4 four, I would have said "too bad". The procedure for the V6's is pretty straightforward. It's probably leaking through the "weep hole" which is typical when the bearing goes.
TX again.....Gonna find out soon. Can't really SEE the leak, but it's NOT hoses, etc etc...just dripping right under the water pump................so..............hopefully..........

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Gonna find out soon.
Glad I could help, good luck to you. Just as a friendly word of advice, if you take an o-ring out of it's hole.., you should probably replace it. Napa has a lot of air conditioning system o-rings of various sizes and they pop in and work fine. if you can't get your's off in one piece, just take the part in question to them and try some till one looks right.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks again Nup for all your advice. Have you seen/experienced any particular O-ring failures? Just wanna be prepared and not have to go somewhere for a 10 cent O-ring in the middle of the job.

TX

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not have to go somewhere for a 10 cent O-ring in the middle of the job.
You will almost absolutely have to do this. We did. Twice lol. Ummm, for ones that, in my case, were particularly rough or completely destroyed upon removal.

  • high pressure on power steering
  • o-ring on coolant return pipe that runs in front of engine
i think those were the main 2 for me. i feel like there was a third, but i don't remember what it was...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
You will almost absolutely have to do this. We did. Twice lol. Ummm, for ones that, in my case, were particularly rough or completely destroyed upon removal.

  • high pressure on power steering
  • o-ring on coolant return pipe that runs in front of engine
i think those were the main 2 for me. i feel like there was a third, but i don't remember what it was...
Well, I'm going to try and "steer clear" LOL of the power steering pump....no problems there, YET. And, the return line....don't think I'll have to bother that, either. The only other one I was thinking was the purge (bleeder line) that I will probably be messing with....however, hopefully, that's just a matter of opening it up enough to let the air out, etc etc.
Once again.....TX

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Yeah, I don't have the bleeder (I WISH I DID with all the issues i'm having after introducing air into the system, but that's unrelated except, just.., make sure you fill it right. bleeder will help you though.) but, to get to the water pump and thermostat, you have to take the power-steering pump off to get lower on the motor, so you'll want to check those o-rings anyway, and the return line also needs to come out of the plastic spout looking thing (can't remember name off the top of my head and busy currently) anyway to get at the thermostat, so you'll want to check it too. To get to the water pump, pretty much ever accessory on the left side has to come off.., so whether you want to steer clear of the power steering or not is somewhat irrelevant because as soon as you break the existing o-ring seal.., there's a good chance that o-ring will tear. Anyway, best of luck to you. If you run into any problems, feel free to ask away.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Parts are in the mail from Rock Auto. Should be here in a few days. I'll let ya know how it all went....

TX

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Hope it goes well and update please. haha..I just ordered the timing belt set for my 32 year old Honda Prelude from Rock Auto. Took about 3 hours to ship !!!
 
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