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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've seen several postings here and online regarding G6s that would not start w/accompanying "error" message on the odometer. This descriptive account is to document yet another incident to add to those complaints/queries. Few postings here and online (allexperts.com, nyspeed.com, answebag.com, fixya.com, edmunds.com........) have included a follow up message that described the final source or resolution to this problem. I'm asking for #1 input as to a possible cause of this problem and #2 followup postings from others who've had similar issues to include any cause or resolution info.

I have a 2009 G6 and yesterday morning the car would not start. The dash lights came on, radio display, AC, etc.

When I turned the key to ignition, there was no sound. When I released the key, all the gauge needles "pegged", then returned to "0". A few subsequent tries, I heard a single click, but no turning or operation of the starter system. The odometer gauge then displayed "error" rather than mileage of the car. Every time since, when I insert the key and turn on to power, the dash lights up, goes through its regular check, gauge needles "peg"/return to "0" and then the odometer reads "error". Every attempt named below to fix the problem was met with the above response.

We put the battery to a charger with no change in the starting attempt.

We tried to jump the car with no improvement.

We checked the battery poles for corrosion (none) and the contact w/cables (no improvement).

We removed the battery and inserted a known working 12v battery, no change.

I did some research and found here and other online query sites from other G6 owners with different scenarios but basically same end result (won't start with "error" on odometer). Very few answers or follow up info on what the problems were. One owner changed his battery and it was fixed. Others tried new batteries and starters with no resolution. One had a negative battery cable replaced with the problem resurfacing about 2 wks later and the dealer had no answers. I have had no aftermarket items installed on my car.

In a similar discussion, one member suggested "resetting" the security system by setting off the alarm and then using the car key to turn off the alarm (lock the car from the inside, then manually unlock the car and open the door). The one way I know I can set off my alarm is to use the remote to lock the car, then use my key to unlock the car. First attempt did not set off the alarm. Upon 2nd attempt, the alarm started albeit very muffled, then sounded at normal volume level. I noted the rapid security indicator on the dash, went to "disable" the alarm by inserting my key into the ignition. The alarm did not abate. Took several minutes jiggling key in ignition, not sure what finally silenced the alarm.

Upon removing the key, reinserting and attempting to start the car, the "error" message returned to the odometer. By this time, the battery seemed to have been drained, reattached to jumper battery. When power restored to dash and radio display, same response to starting attempt ("error" on odometer, single or double click upon turning key to ignition, pegging and returning to "0" on all gauges). By this point, I'm getting "fuel low", "air bag requires service", no tire pressure readings.

I understand some folks think reprogramming of the ECM (as long as the BCM is working) might help the issue.

Who else has this happened to (regardless of year of your car)? What were the dealer's explainations/resolutions?

Many thanks
 

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I had the same problem it's for shore the computer system of the car.
the comp is next to the radiator overflow reservoir, it's a small silver colered box.
Try removing the wire from the comp and see if the wire has some dirt on it, it may have a bad contact that me be causing the problem.
(it's a big wire and you need to remove 2 hooks to releas the cable.)

and when your puting the cable back in try having someone in the driver seat because the guages will begin to move and the service lights will begin to turn on and off.

if this doesn't work take it to a mechanic because your comp may be fried.
 

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for real i didn't know that, because my mechanic did that and the car worked fine afterwords and the problem was solved.

always when my car needs servicing or somthing i ask the mechanics if i can stay next to the car so i can see what there doing.
so, i guess the mechanic did it wrong, but the upside is it fixed the problem.

so then like lampoon sayd disconnect the battery and then try doing what i sayd before.

thank god lampoon steped in before i messed up you car !!! lol
good luck!!!
 

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I had this problem back when I was installing my new tuned PCM. I had to replace the stock PCM with the new one, but I didn't unhook the battery so when I installed the new PCM it got fried. There was no external indicator it was fried, but my car experienced the same symptoms you have. If I plugged in my stock PCM, the car worked normally, but the tuned one was faulty.

I got a 3rd PCM (tuned) and it worked while making sure my battery was unhooked prior to the installation. The 05-06 PCM's are easily prone to being fried while the later models have better voltage regulators to prevent this. You have a 2009 and didn't remove your PCM so I doubt this is your problem, but know that it is PCM related.

I feel like trying to install that faulty PCM in hopes that it isn't fried, but I don't want to risk ruining my tuned PCM.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Lightning....why my G6 won't start

Had a thunderstorm Monday. We had lightning very closeby. One lightning strike was accompanied by a loud "pop" and I thought, "Oh, something GOT hit by lightning". Decided earlier today while I was posting my query here to have the car towed to closest Pontiac service center (20 mi). Initial word is lightning struck the car, going to be 3 weeks to fix it!:eek:

Thanks to all who replied. Will be interested in reading more.
 

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I had the same issue last week. Brought it to a dealer and they repaced the starter twice, but that did not fix the issue. Ended up being a bad main fuse block.
 

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I am having the EXACT same issue. I have a 2006 g6 2.7. We have replaced the battery, the starter,cleaned everything possible. My husband is convinced it is the computer because we didnt have this issue until we took the car in for a different issue and a oil change. They said the computer needed to be updated so we let the update it. since then we have been having multi different issues. We even had the air conditioner stop working while on vacation. Stopped in Chattanooga (in July) and didnt come back on until we hit a pot hole in Orlando!! 10 hrs later!!! Haven't had a issue with it (air) since. Our next stop is back to the dealer unless someone has any other ideas!!
 

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I am having the same issue. I just got finished doing a transmission swap, after everything was back together i started it up and it ran rough. I just figure it was bc my car was sitting for 2-3 mo. I took it around the block once. went to take it a 2nd time and i got to the end of the block and all my gauges died and "error" showed on the odometer. I have no idea what the problem is. I will take a look at the PCM later today and see if that may be the issue.
 

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The problem with the PCM is that you can't open it to see if it is fried (if it even shows any damage). The only way to narrow it down is to get a new PCM programmed for your car and swap it (which is a pretty penny). Best bet is to get a (correct) used PCM from eBay and have Chris change the VIN for your car instead of a dealership.
 

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idk if you seen my post a few back about a 2007, after removing the remote start, makeing sure all connections were solder GOOD, and tapeing any open connections, i also removed the 2 connections to the BCM (VERY VERY VERY CAREFULLy.... VERY!!) and blowin em out with canned air, and reconnecting everything, it works great now.... idk what fixed it... but whatever, it works. lol try disconnecting and reconnecting the BCM connections under the radio from the pass side kick pannel. let me know if this helps!
 

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I am having the same issue. I just got finished doing a transmission swap, after everything was back together i started it up and it ran rough. I just figure it was bc my car was sitting for 2-3 mo. I took it around the block once. went to take it a 2nd time and i got to the end of the block and all my gauges died and "error" showed on the odometer. I have no idea what the problem is. I will take a look at the PCM later today and see if that may be the issue.
There are just so many possible causes for that glitchy behavior that I think its well worth paying the dealer's diagnostic fee to try to find it for you. To start, I would want to see what the system voltage was doing during a problem event. It sounds like you are getting a voltage drop-out to the IPC but that could just be one symptom of a system-wide voltage drop.
 

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I plan on getting it up to the dealership after thanksgiving so they can do some diagnostics on it and hopefully point me in the right direction. I will keep you guys posted....
 

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Dealership looked at it and they told me one ground wire on the starter was loose. They fixed the problem. Now all is well. I guess not too bad if all I did was knock a wire loose during a tranny swap. And I would've been under the hood for months before I figured that one out. But now she's back to life running great!

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That's crazy.... Seems like this can be caused by all kinds of tiny things.
 

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Yeah, I've been told the computer system on this car is EXTREMELY sensitive. But I guess I would rather it be too sensitive than not sense the problem.

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Ok check it out. So what it actually is, is GM. It's part of their tamper-proof system in their vehicle. This can be caused by the BCM plugs being lose and you turning your ignition on or cycling the key too many times. Simple fix.

Step 1. Make sure key is out of ignition.
Step 2. Check battery voltage.
Step 3. Take Pos(+) and Neg (+) terminals off the battery and tap them together to discharge the system.
Step 4: Make sure BCM plugs are in tightly if you messed with them at all, if not then don't worry about it.
Step 5: Leave key in ignition, in the on position, for 10-15 minutes, Mainly towards the longer side, but essentially as soon as you tap the terminals together and re-connect, once you stick the key in, the "error" message should go away. Then you can try and start it.

Do not attempt to start it twice if it doesn't start cause then you will have the "Error" message pop up again and then you will have to redo "steps A-G were a complete failure" (Austin Powers reference)-- steps 3-5.

Simple as that, do this first before calling a dealer, or tow truck. By letting the key sit in the ignition, it reads the code, and lets things kind of, get in gear per say.

GOOD LUCK!
 

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Ok check it out. So what it actually is, is GM. It's part of their tamper-proof system in their vehicle. This can be caused by the BCM plugs being lose and you turning your ignition on or cycling the key too many times. Simple fix.

Step 1. Make sure key is out of ignition.
Step 2. Check battery voltage.
Step 3. Take Pos(+) and Neg (+) terminals off the battery and tap them together to discharge the system.
Step 4: Make sure BCM plugs are in tightly if you messed with them at all, if not then don't worry about it.
Step 5: Leave key in ignition, in the on position, for 10-15 minutes, Mainly towards the longer side, but essentially as soon as you tap the terminals together and re-connect, once you stick the key in, the "error" message should go away. Then you can try and start it.

Do not attempt to start it twice if it doesn't start cause then you will have the "Error" message pop up again and then you will have to redo "steps A-G were a complete failure" (Austin Powers reference)-- steps 3-5.

Simple as that, do this first before calling a dealer, or tow truck. By letting the key sit in the ignition, it reads the code, and lets things kind of, get in gear per say.

GOOD LUCK!
Sorry dude. This isn't a fix-all solution. I had this error and it had nothing to do with the BCM. As well as others have stated, there are a number of causes for this issue. I wouldn't recommend tapping the terminals together either, just let them sit unconnected from the battery for 10 minutes.
 
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