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By tapping the terminal you are discharging the system, it's a hard reset more or less. That's the point.
But the "error" message comes from a sensor that is calculated trough GMLAN Data. Nearly everything in the G6 is Data. So If something happens, as I explained before, or you try to cycle the key too many times it could throw this code because GM has a particular tamper-proof system that causes headaches to most.


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i had the same issue, couldn't hear the pump when key was turned to on position and wouldn't start.

FINALLY FOUND THE PROBLEM AFTER 6 MONTHS OF FRUSTRATING STARTS AND MONEY WASTED!

its the connection between the fuel pump to the relay behind the rear fusebox.
I pushed the connection (wire harness) together to the back of the fusebox where the fuel pump relay is located on the fusebox. seems to be a misconnection that won't allow the power to reach the fuel pump.

whenever it wont start i do the same procedure, automatically starts...

still havent fixed it properly since its been freezing here in toronto ontario.atleast i know where the problem is located. hopefully fix it soon when it gets warmer.
hope it helped you guys somehow...

email me at [email protected] if it worked.
thanks!
 

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My 2009 g6 is having the same issues, won't start and odometer reads "error". Had it towed to the Chevy dealer, tech says first he has to replace the fuse box $700 and that 3 fuses were missing (5, 13, 16). That may or may not fix it, may need to replace some modules for another $600. Does this sound right?
 

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Hey Paula. Could you please send me your VIN and current mileage by private message? I will look into this and see what answers I can find for you.

Jackie
Chevrolet Customer Care
 

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So it looks like I'm a bit late to the party on this topic, but I'll leave my info here in case it will help others.

I had this "error" message pop up on me this weekend as well. Here's how it happened:

I was driving along down a street that's currently got a lot of construction going on, so it's pretty bumpy. Hit a series of pretty big bumps, all the sudden the car does the three chime like when you turn the lights off or something like that, and the anti-theft light came on. Thought nothing of it, figured the bump just cause a temporary issue or something. So continued to where i was going. When I got ready to leave though, the car wouldn't start and after a few seconds the fuel empty light came on and the odometer read "error". OK i thought, maybe the computer has a stored mis-code from the bump so I'l just unplug it for a bit to see what happens. Did that, same thing. It' a new battery so I was fairly positive that wasn't the problem, called my dad who is a mechanic and he agreed and thought it was probably the starter. So I called AAA to get a tow, but when the guy got there he managed to get it started after several attempts. Again, this all made sense for it being the starter so I figured that was probably the issue and decided to get it to the shop. Being that it was nearly midnight on a Saturday though I was going to have to take my chances with being able to get it to start again on Monday.

Fast forward to this morning, i go to try to start it to get it to the shop. Same errors as before but now I can't even get the starter to attempt to turn over and now "service traction" is popping up on the radio as well. Go to unhook the battery again to try my luck with it, but check all the cables just to make sure there's no shorts or anything. Lo and behold, the ground cable that connects to the engine is COMPLETELY shredded at the engine bolt and is barely hanging on by a thread.

So right now it's being towed to the shop as I have no way to work on my own car where I live. I can't guarantee that this is the issue that everyone else is having, I can't even guarantee that this is the only problem that I'm having yet. But it completely fits that the computer would be giving out all kinds of random errors without a proper ground connection. Will update once I hear back from the shop.
 

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Had error message on dash. Replaced both battery cables. Running fine now. GM should get rid of some of these SO CALLED Engineers.
 

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Numerous warning lights, no gauges, won't start.

I have the same or similar issue. This is the second time it has happened. The first was mid March of this year. I took it to the dealer and they said it was the battery and charged me a steep price to put a new one in. This morning while driving I get the chime sound and warning lights come on - several, ABS, car with picture of key, car with padlock, error word displayed on the odometer, all gauges went to 0. I made it home, then tried to restart it and nothing- just a click with all of those warning lights on. The 1st time it happened I had to have the car towed because my teenage son was driving and we told him to pull over and turn off the car. I cannot help but feel that the battery were not the true issue or it would not be doing this again in 3 months time. Also, why would it suddenly chime, put out warning lights and error message, drop the gauges, while we are driving it? So now my car won't start and I'd really like to get a good idea of what it might be before wasting money as mechanics in our area don't seem as knowledgeable. We live in a rural area and I've already wasted money, paying people who cannot fix my car correctly on a tight budget. My car is a 2005 pontiac G6. I will try unplugging the battery and turning the key and letting it set for 15 minutes. Anyone have any other suggestions?
 

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Ok check it out. So what it actually is, is GM. It's part of their tamper-proof system in their vehicle. This can be caused by the BCM plugs being lose and you turning your ignition on or cycling the key too many times. Simple fix.

Step 1. Make sure key is out of ignition.
Step 2. Check battery voltage.
Step 3. Take Pos(+) and Neg (+) terminals off the battery and tap them together to discharge the system.
Step 4: Make sure BCM plugs are in tightly if you messed with them at all, if not then don't worry about it.
Step 5: Leave key in ignition, in the on position, for 10-15 minutes, Mainly towards the longer side, but essentially as soon as you tap the terminals together and re-connect, once you stick the key in, the "error" message should go away. Then you can try and start it.

Do not attempt to start it twice if it doesn't start cause then you will have the "Error" message pop up again and then you will have to redo "steps A-G were a complete failure" (Austin Powers reference)-- steps 3-5.

Simple as that, do this first before calling a dealer, or tow truck. By letting the key sit in the ignition, it reads the code, and lets things kind of, get in gear per say.

GOOD LUCK!
Ok, I tried this, except I did not tap the positive and negative cables together, and it started right up! Yay! The only thing is, I'm wondering what made it do this in the first place? This happens to me after I have already been driving 15-25 minutes. Is it the key sensor malfunctioning? Is something else getting jiggled after hitting a bump? Hopefully all is good for a while.
 

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Update, this did not fix my problem however. The car kicked on all warning lights again and refused to start. unplugging the battery and turning the key for 15 minutes did not work. I took the car to a mechanic and he tightened connections to the body control module and told me to drive it around a week and see if it acts up again. I'm currently waiting to see if this fixed the problem. Maybe it was a loose connection to the power supply for the Body control module.
 

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So it looks like I'm a bit late to the party on this topic, but I'll leave my info here in case it will help others.

I had this "error" message pop up on me this weekend as well. Here's how it happened:

I was driving along down a street that's currently got a lot of construction going on, so it's pretty bumpy. Hit a series of pretty big bumps, all the sudden the car does the three chime like when you turn the lights off or something like that, and the anti-theft light came on. Thought nothing of it, figured the bump just cause a temporary issue or something. So continued to where i was going. When I got ready to leave though, the car wouldn't start and after a few seconds the fuel empty light came on and the odometer read "error". OK i thought, maybe the computer has a stored mis-code from the bump so I'l just unplug it for a bit to see what happens. Did that, same thing. It' a new battery so I was fairly positive that wasn't the problem, called my dad who is a mechanic and he agreed and thought it was probably the starter. So I called AAA to get a tow, but when the guy got there he managed to get it started after several attempts. Again, this all made sense for it being the starter so I figured that was probably the issue and decided to get it to the shop. Being that it was nearly midnight on a Saturday though I was going to have to take my chances with being able to get it to start again on Monday.

Fast forward to this morning, i go to try to start it to get it to the shop. Same errors as before but now I can't even get the starter to attempt to turn over and now "service traction" is popping up on the radio as well. Go to unhook the battery again to try my luck with it, but check all the cables just to make sure there's no shorts or anything. Lo and behold, the ground cable that connects to the engine is COMPLETELY shredded at the engine bolt and is barely hanging on by a thread.

So right now it's being towed to the shop as I have no way to work on my own car where I live. I can't guarantee that this is the issue that everyone else is having, I can't even guarantee that this is the only problem that I'm having yet. But it completely fits that the computer would be giving out all kinds of random errors without a proper ground connection. Will update once I hear back from the shop.
Exact same problems still.no solution though
 

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I ended up having 3 bad grounds that my mechanic found and had to replace. I haven't had any problems since so I'm assuming that was the real issue. I'm just trying to make this car last another year or so until we get my husband truck paid off. LOL. Part of me is really tempted to get a classic car that does not have any sensors in it.
 

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I've seen several postings here and online regarding G6s that would not start w/accompanying "error" message on the odometer. This descriptive account is to document yet another incident to add to those complaints/queries. Few postings here and online (allexperts.com, nyspeed.com, answebag.com, fixya.com, edmunds.com........) have included a follow up message that described the final source or resolution to this problem. I'm asking for #1 input as to a possible cause of this problem and #2 followup postings from others who've had similar issues to include any cause or resolution info.

I have a 2009 G6 and yesterday morning the car would not start. The dash lights came on, radio display, AC, etc.

When I turned the key to ignition, there was no sound. When I released the key, all the gauge needles "pegged", then returned to "0". A few subsequent tries, I heard a single click, but no turning or operation of the starter system. The odometer gauge then displayed "error" rather than mileage of the car. Every time since, when I insert the key and turn on to power, the dash lights up, goes through its regular check, gauge needles "peg"/return to "0" and then the odometer reads "error". Every attempt named below to fix the problem was met with the above response.

We put the battery to a charger with no change in the starting attempt.

We tried to jump the car with no improvement.

We checked the battery poles for corrosion (none) and the contact w/cables (no improvement).

We removed the battery and inserted a known working 12v battery, no change.

I did some research and found here and other online query sites from other G6 owners with different scenarios but basically same end result (won't start with "error" on odometer). Very few answers or follow up info on what the problems were. One owner changed his battery and it was fixed. Others tried new batteries and starters with no resolution. One had a negative battery cable replaced with the problem resurfacing about 2 wks later and the dealer had no answers. I have had no aftermarket items installed on my car.

In a similar discussion, one member suggested "resetting" the security system by setting off the alarm and then using the car key to turn off the alarm (lock the car from the inside, then manually unlock the car and open the door). The one way I know I can set off my alarm is to use the remote to lock the car, then use my key to unlock the car. First attempt did not set off the alarm. Upon 2nd attempt, the alarm started albeit very muffled, then sounded at normal volume level. I noted the rapid security indicator on the dash, went to "disable" the alarm by inserting my key into the ignition. The alarm did not abate. Took several minutes jiggling key in ignition, not sure what finally silenced the alarm.

Upon removing the key, reinserting and attempting to start the car, the "error" message returned to the odometer. By this time, the battery seemed to have been drained, reattached to jumper battery. When power restored to dash and radio display, same response to starting attempt ("error" on odometer, single or double click upon turning key to ignition, pegging and returning to "0" on all gauges). By this point, I'm getting "fuel low", "air bag requires service", no tire pressure readings.

I understand some folks think reprogramming of the ECM (as long as the BCM is working) might help the issue.

Who else has this happened to (regardless of year of your car)? What were the dealer's explainations/resolutions?

Many thanks
2007 Pontiac G6, Error on mileage display was traced to a CAN Buss error. TCM Module lost ground. Put ground on the TCM case and error gone.
Now just the security light issue. Tried the relearn procedure, no joy. ECM Computer, BCM, and TCM checked OK. Vin check, OK.
The CAN buss is how the modules communicate. Lost relay start enable ground in power distribution box so vehicle fails to start.
Vehicle starts and runs by putting 12V quickly to "S" terminal on starter. What the relay should do. No broken wires found.
Replaced ground cable, no joy. All grounds checked OK. Ground wire from relay to key module, OK. Both key modules, same issue.
PassKey issue yet to be found. TDM replaced W/ key module per GM direction, no joy. Dealer has no further info.
Tried both keys during relearn procedure, no joy. GM PassKey SUCKS. No codes present.
Another issue, airbag light on, traced airbag circuit to PassKey circuit, ?????? No airbag code set. Love GM right now !!!!
If anybody got this far, will putting the resister in the start circuit work, My next step, if it doesn't mess anything else up.
Hate cutting wires in a factory cable...
 

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I have a 2009 G6 which had similar issues like yours. Would get the "error" message on the odometer. Door locks randomly operating, gauges doing all kinds of stuff, trunk lid not open, transmission seemed to not shifting correctly, etc. I had a recall a few years before this where the dealer said they had to repair a connector on the BCM. Never had any problems before they did this work. Finally traced it down to the BCM which is located in front of the center consul. Removed the right-hand cover, unplugged the connectors and found that they had put some dielectric grease on the middle one (none on the others). This is the one that was bothering. Re-inserted the plug several times and everything worked okay. This unit is located in line with the heater/ac duct so when the seasons change switch between heat and ac it appears to screw up this connection. This fix has worked for up to a year before I had to redo the unplug/insert this connector. Simple fix, takes hardly any time at all. GM is aware of this but don't seem to do anything except what was done to my car. Not a good fix.
 

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Dielectric grease is largely misunderstood and can do more harm than good in an interior connector. Read up on it.
I would flush the connectors with contact cleaner to get rid of the grease (if you can) and then examine them closely for loose or deformed pins.
 

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Hi dxG6.
I tried the dry clean on the BCM, No joy. After I read your message, I then contacted GM customer service
and was transferred to a GM Tech. (He had no more info on my G6 Security lockout problem)
I questioned the use of dielectric grease on contacts.
GM uses "Electrically Conductive Grease" on all their repairs to increase conductivity and reduce corrosion.
Permatex Dielectric meets that requirement. If I have a loose pin, then this application could solve it ??
Electrically Conductive Grease will not damage any automotive connector per GM.
I'm not sure if other brands of dielectric meet this requirement. If not, then I probably wouldn't use it.
I've read pros and cons on this subject several times and this Electrically Conductive Grease issue was never addressed.
Maybe this is why some products work and some don't ?? I'm going to try both methods, Yours first, then GM's.
Thanks for the info, it got me searching to find the answer on Dielectric.
 
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