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2009 G6 won't start EITHER ("error" on odometer)

108436 Views 45 Replies 24 Participants Last post by  terryhaskett70
I've seen several postings here and online regarding G6s that would not start w/accompanying "error" message on the odometer. This descriptive account is to document yet another incident to add to those complaints/queries. Few postings here and online (allexperts.com, nyspeed.com, answebag.com, fixya.com, edmunds.com........) have included a follow-up message that described the final source or resolution to this problem. I'm asking for #1 input as to a possible cause of this problem and #2 follow-up postings from others who've had similar issues to include any cause or resolution info.

I have a 2009 G6, and yesterday morning the car would not start. The dash lights came on, the radio display, AC, etc.

When I turned the key to the ignition, there was no sound. When I released the key, all the gauge needles were "pegged", then returned to "0". After a few subsequent tries, I heard a single click but no turning or operation of the starter system. The odometer gauge then displayed "error" rather than the mileage of the car. Every time when I insert the key and turn it on to power, the dash lights up, goes through its regular check, gauge needles "peg"/return to "0" and then the odometer reads "error". Every attempt named below to fix the problem was met with the above response.

We put the battery in a charger with no change in the starting attempt.

We tried to jump the car with no improvement.

We checked the battery poles for corrosion (none) and the contact w/cables (no improvement).

We removed the battery and inserted a known working 12v battery, no change.

I did some research and found here and other online query sites from other G6 owners with different scenarios but basically the same end result (it won't start with "error" on the odometer). Very few answers or follow-up info on what the problems were. One owner changed his battery, and it was fixed. Others tried new batteries and starters with no resolution. One had a negative battery cable replaced, with the problem resurfacing about 2 wks later, and the dealer had no answers. I have had no aftermarket items installed on my car.

In a similar discussion, one member suggested "resetting" the security system by setting off the alarm and then using the car key to turn off the alarm (lock the car from the inside, then manually unlock the car and open the door). The one way I know I can set off my alarm is to use the remote to lock the car, then use my key to unlock the car. The first attempt did not set off the alarm. Upon 2nd attempt, the alarm started, albeit very muffled, then sounded at a normal volume level. I noted the rapid security indicator on the dash and went to "disable" the alarm by inserting my key into the ignition. The alarm did not abate. Took several minutes jiggling the key in the ignition, not sure what finally silenced the alarm.

Upon removing the key, reinserting it, and attempting to start the car, the "error" message returned to the odometer. By this time, the battery seemed to have been drained and reattached to the jumper battery. When power is restored to the dash and radio display, the same response to starting attempt ("error" on the odometer, single or double click upon turning the key to ignition, pegging, and returning to "0" on all gauges). By this point, I'm getting "fuel low", "airbag requires service", and no tire pressure readings.

I understand some folks think reprogramming of the ECM (as long as the BCM is working) might help the issue.

Who else has this happened to (regardless of the year of your car)? What were the dealer's explanations/resolutions?

Many thanks
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As I said, it's a commonly misunderstood item. Lots of ignorance out there. If you look up the word dielectric in the dictionary it means insulator. And it is. Dielectric grease is used to keep water out of connections, without shorting out anything. And prevent oxidation. Like on spark plug connections. Clearly a dielectric is not going to make anything more conductive.
Now electrically conductive grease is exactly what it says. It is conductive. The opposite of dielectric. You need to use it carefully and knowledgeably as it will short things out if misused.
For automotive interior applications that don't see water and weather, grease of any kind is rarely used. If that specific connector came with grease from the factory, they may have a good reason for it. Like cheap contact pins that may oxidize if left dry. So IF it did have grease originally, then yes you can use conductive grease carefully. Not dielectric grease. But grease will not cure a bad/damaged connector or pins. You need to fix the problem first and only then worry about grease.

Flush everything clean. Then de-oxidize with DeoxIT. Find and fix the mechanical problem.
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Hi dxG6 again..connector
Went back to GM. Got a GM Engineer this time. Tom.
Yes, you are right. Dielectric serves as a good insulator between adjacent pins in a connector.
BUT, "Dielectric" also supports an electrostatic field while dissipating minimal energy in the pins/connector also.
Thus creating conductivity between the pin and connector. It doesn't leak past the connection point.
It is completely safe in dc low voltage, 48 dc volts max was discussed. Dielectric Break down after that could occur.
Not ever recommended in high voltage as the dielectric could then break down and become conductive and short out.
Tom also explained that dielectric should be kept away from excessive heat as it could also become conductive and cause shorting.
Never let a connector contact the exhaust system, Common sense prevails here. But one can't fix stupid.
Thanks again for your input. I never knew how Dielectric actually worked. To be a conductor yet be an insulator.
Davy, your post above contains several inaccurate statements. Either someone gave you false info or you misunderstood what was said to you. I'm not going to continue this. I have no horse in this race. Best of luck with your troubleshooting.
My 2009 g6 is having the same issues, won't start and odometer reads "error". Had it towed to the Chevy dealer, tech says first he has to replace the fuse box $700 and that 3 fuses were missing (5, 13, 16). That may or may not fix it, may need to replace some modules for another $600. Does this sound right?
what a dumbass technitian there is no 5 13 or 16 in any g6 3.5 lmao and you didnt need a bcm or fuse box!
By tapping the terminal you are discharging the system, it's a hard reset more or less. That's the point.
But the "error" message comes from a sensor that is calculated trough GMLAN Data. Nearly everything in the G6 is Data. So If something happens, as I explained before, or you try to cycle the key too many times it could throw this code because GM has a particular tamper-proof system that causes headaches to most.


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
Bub I had the same problem I fixed ground wire and electric plug everything I took the fuse box out and took it apart and some of the relay wasn't getting good connection I fixed that put it all back together and now she starts and now key get stuck in the acc spot have to take the black core out of the ignition switch to get keys out now
I've seen several postings here and online regarding G6s that would not start w/accompanying "error" message on the odometer. This descriptive account is to document yet another incident to add to those complaints/queries. Few postings here and online (allexperts.com, nyspeed.com, answebag.com, fixya.com, edmunds.com........) have included a follow-up message that described the final source or resolution to this problem. I'm asking for #1 input as to a possible cause of this problem and #2 follow-up postings from others who've had similar issues to include any cause or resolution info.

I have a 2009 G6, and yesterday morning the car would not start. The dash lights came on, the radio display, AC, etc.

When I turned the key to the ignition, there was no sound. When I released the key, all the gauge needles were "pegged", then returned to "0". After a few subsequent tries, I heard a single click but no turning or operation of the starter system. The odometer gauge then displayed "error" rather than the mileage of the car. Every time when I insert the key and turn it on to power, the dash lights up, goes through its regular check, gauge needles "peg"/return to "0" and then the odometer reads "error". Every attempt named below to fix the problem was met with the above response.

We put the battery in a charger with no change in the starting attempt.

We tried to jump the car with no improvement.

We checked the battery poles for corrosion (none) and the contact w/cables (no improvement).

We removed the battery and inserted a known working 12v battery, no change.

I did some research and found here and other online query sites from other G6 owners with different scenarios but basically the same end result (it won't start with "error" on the odometer). Very few answers or follow-up info on what the problems were. One owner changed his battery, and it was fixed. Others tried new batteries and starters with no resolution. One had a negative battery cable replaced, with the problem resurfacing about 2 wks later, and the dealer had no answers. I have had no aftermarket items installed on my car.

In a similar discussion, one member suggested "resetting" the security system by setting off the alarm and then using the car key to turn off the alarm (lock the car from the inside, then manually unlock the car and open the door). The one way I know I can set off my alarm is to use the remote to lock the car, then use my key to unlock the car. The first attempt did not set off the alarm. Upon 2nd attempt, the alarm started, albeit very muffled, then sounded at a normal volume level. I noted the rapid security indicator on the dash and went to "disable" the alarm by inserting my key into the ignition. The alarm did not abate. Took several minutes jiggling the key in the ignition, not sure what finally silenced the alarm.

Upon removing the key, reinserting it, and attempting to start the car, the "error" message returned to the odometer. By this time, the battery seemed to have been drained and reattached to the jumper battery. When power is restored to the dash and radio display, the same response to starting attempt ("error" on the odometer, single or double click upon turning the key to ignition, pegging, and returning to "0" on all gauges). By this point, I'm getting "fuel low", "airbag requires service", and no tire pressure readings.

I understand some folks think reprogramming of the ECM (as long as the BCM is working) might help the issue.

Who else has this happened to (regardless of the year of your car)? What were the dealer's explanations/resolutions?

Many thanks
Dealing with this issue now I am out of ideas and money can't get to work and ready to sell to junk yard.
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