[mattness7]

My own car

okay so i've been refeering to this thread for awhile for instructions, so i bought a 15" alpine type r sub and 1000 watt alpine amp. i bought a 4 farad capacitor and a 5000 watt earthquake wireing kit for the amp. So im going to use a schosche line converter like everyone else so for that all im supposed to do is take 2 positive wires to the positive side on the speaker and 2 to the negative side and then put them into the 1,2,3,4 wholes in pairs correct? also where is the best place to put the remote wire? I was wondering if i can put it in the back fuze box or if i should go to the one on the passenger front side. any extra tips are well needed and appreciated i barely know what im doing but have a friend helping me. will also need lotsa tips for capacitor please and thank you everyone

 

[mattness7]

i know nothing about the capacitor but i believe one of the guys earlier on in this thread had one so if didn't explain it i'm sure you can shoot him a message. As for using the LOC, you splice into the 4 wires coming out of the rear 6x9's (2 on each speaker). you're loc should have a diagram on which color lines up with which wire on the rear speakers ya gotta get it right. best place for a remote would be any fuse that goes live when you turn the key to any position (at least thats what i did so i could still listen to my subs even when my engine isn't running) - i put it in the windshield wiper fuse its somewhere in the passenger kickpanel box. run your remote and power up one of the side runners or the remote on the passenger side and the pwoer going up the driver side out the firewall to the battery. everything else is pretty much plug n play hope this helps ya out

thanks man but one question for the line converter most people it seems are just using one speaker should i use both back speakers instead? but okay rest seems straight forward then ill do the same as the windshield whiper fuse then too.

 

[mattness7]

Hello so i was going to get everything set up with my g6 but i hit a problem with my firewall. so i found the little plugs by the brake pedal but when i cut the rubber theres hard plastic in behind am i supposed to drill through it or is there another way plz help fast!

 

[mattness7]

i drilled then resealed with silicone once the project was 100% done

Thanks alot to you and the others that commented i will probably do this most likely but im gonna look for that grommet to see if i can stuff my 4 gauge into it too. seems tricky tho and what one did u drill through the hole farthest left or the middle one?

 

[mattness7]

There so i Drilled through the firewall and got all the wiring and everything done in my car i have been hitting alot of problems for it. I wanted to run the wire under the trim but i found out u have to go all the way up to the freaken seat belt to take it off so i just kinda pushed it under the trim at the bottom. I also shorted out my battery so i have to buy a whole new battery because im borrowing my friends right now. The original car battery is only 525 CCA my new one is going to be 950CCA so quite a jump hopefully this one can put up with the sub. So i have a 1000 WATT pyle Driver amp that puts out 600 watt rms when bridged to my 4ohm 15" alpine type R. I have a 4 farad capacitor so it is plenty big to keep up with the power but i am worried about the alternator. With a big battery and big capacitor what do you guys think about the Alternator do you think it will keep up? Also i installed a Sony CDX gt 710 with the turbo 2 metra kit and I LOVE it! it look's so nice and makes the stock sound so much better. If anyone needs tips on that i can help

 

[mattness7]

for the trim, the easiest thing i found was just to pull it away from the doors and b pillar, but dont worry about the piece higher up on the b-pillar. you will have enough room like this to run the wire. I also took part of a clothes hanger and taped it along the end of the wire to make it easier to push through. What size wire are you running?

I think you may run into problems with the alternator, but im sure you'll easily notice if you are having issues

yah i just gave up on trying to run it through the trim. and damn even with only a 1000 watt amp you think it will be hard on the alternator? damn i was hopeing it wouldnt be to big. Because 1000 watts divided by the 12 volt current is 83.3 Amps, Also not sure if this works but the 600 watt rms for the 4ohm divided by 12 is only 50 amps. I believe the car's alternator puts out 90 amps but i could be wrong

 

[mattness7]

Oh and to answer your other question my power and ground are 4 gauge wire, and my speaker wire to sub i think is 16 or 12? I also have another question i ran outa 4 gauge wire so one side of the capacitor for power is going to be 4 gauge and the ground will only be like 6 or 8 gauge? does that matter or do i have to buy more 4 gauge?

 

[mattness7]

i thought it was more like 115A but i really have no idea. I'm currently running a 1600W amp at 800-900W for my sub and a 127W at 60-70W amp for my speakers and have minimal light dim on the stock alternator and stock battery

oh if your running a 1600 watt and another amp for speakers i should be good with big battery and only 1000 watt amp. i may look at a 1600 watt one too cuz it pumps out 900 watt rms for the big 15" type-r but i think 1000 will be good enough for me. You are probably right with the 115 amps i was just takeing a stab at the 90 amps because i heard vehicles newer then 2004 are around 90 amps

 

[mattness7]

does the dash feel hot, feel the face by the ac buttons...if thats hot after a drive then yes your pushing to much power through there.

in my car my deck heats up and restarts...

What Size of amp are you running that makes it heat up that much? and do you have a capacitor? and for Tay Tay have you checked out if your car heats up with your 1600 watt amp? Our cars have a pretty big alternator, if you have a decent size battery to take all the recharging we should be fine. If you keep the lights off in the car and keep the dash dim down try and reserve as much power as possible and you should be fine but let me know how hot your car is getting because I am most likely going to get a 1600 watt amp aswell.

 

[mattness7]

i got a 1600W amp and it barely heats up. Just depends on the one you get because my 4channel amp heat up alot.

what about light diming?

 

[mattness7]

hey guys i need some serious help picking out an amp for my 15" alpine type R, it calls for 750 RMS and i am on a very tight tight budget. i have found a few and am worried.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_25235_Lanzar-MAXP1200.html

theres that one it says it puts out 900 watt RMS at 2 ohms which would be perfect and it has 3 30 amp fuses so its not lieing about the 900 watt rms,

I also found a used kenwood 9104D but i was told kenwoods have problems like crazy about pulln way to much power wreckin ur alternator and blowing subs, over heating etc. and the kenwood is double the price

 

[mattness7]

How tight is your budget? The first one seems pretty good. Hard to recommend you other amps without a budget

ha true sorry man, my budget is 150 dollars total so like after shipping and border fees, i know its pretty low but im a poor 17 year old with a nice first car lol.

 

[mattness7]

I also threw my Sub and box up on Kijiji for sale or trade, and have been offered 12W1v2-4 its a 12" JL sub with slim box, or 2 10" kaption Cl's + 100$ what do you guys think? i need some help deciding or if i should just buy an amp for it

 

[mattness7]

the W1 isnt any better than your type r so i would just keep it.

with your tight budget you best bets for an amp are likely one in the link you had. Or something like these:

Power Acoustik CPT1 1500
Kenwood KAC 8104D
Power-Acoustik CPT1 2000

If you'd be willing to spend $150 before taxes and all that stuff, i would recommend this amp. Hifonics HFi1000D. IMO its worth the extra $$ over the other ones i have given links for. It will be a better quality amp aswell.

If you want a different sub, i would just wait a bit and buy a JL 12W3 when you can afford it. My buddy has one and it pounds plus sounds amazing.

what about the 2 10 inch kaption subs and 100 bucks? but thanks for all the other stuff ill take a look

 

[mattness7]

So i took a look at all those amps the first 2 cant power it, that power acoustik apparently over heats like crazy. and The hifonics would come to 200 bucks so ill look into it tho seems decent , better brand thanks man

 

[mattness7]

forgot to respond about those subs. i personally wouldnt go for them. At least not without hearing them first. I was reading some forums about them, and there seem to be some negative opinions on them. mostly about the quality not being so good and them not lasting long.

BTW. all of those amps i posted would work with your type r. i wouldnt have posted them if they wouldnt

okay thanks then ill keep the alpine, and there out puts too small the amp and the sub would just heat up, better to over power then under power a sub

 

[mattness7]

Thanks for the help man so i had my heart set on the hifonics amp about to buy it but then got offered 2 12" Alpine Type s's in a ported alpine box made for them, here it is http://london.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehi...ubs-in-a-sloted-ported-box-W0QQAdIdZ244211580

what do you think? i could still buy the same hifonics amp to power them nicely im just not sure if the 15" would be better or the 2 older 12"s. Im looking for deep booming bass that rlly makes the car shake but i also dont know if our cars could hold 2 12"s

 

[mattness7]

okay thanks alot man its final then ill keep the 15" and order up that amp and make a video to show all the followers how it sounds. Thanks alot Dmanj!

 

[mattness7]

Well i have officially finished my car off, i blew my old battery outa the car and replaced it with a 950CCA battery biggest battery i could fit in the little car got it for a snag of a price. I put a sony CDX gt 710ui or somethin like that in for the deck which sounds amazing and lights up beautifully, really brings the speakers alive too and i had to get the metra turbo 2 kit for the oil and trip and all that crap, but it all looks really cool the metra kits black is different from the rest of the dash but oh well it made the install nice and easy though even though it took me like 8 hours. I sold my 15" alpine because i need some trunk space and i thought it was to big and to hard on the alternator so i ended up picking up a 10" JL 10W3 with a 200RMS MTX pro blue thunder amp and this 10" pounds like mad! it sounds soo good i love JL it puts 15"s bass to shame. Doesen't distort at all either. So if anyone has any questions on how to install or anything like that let me know i will give you my best

 

[mattness7]

I've been wanting to add some subs and an amp to my 6, but im face with the dilema that we all are... not loosing the DIC and/or paying out the ass for another HU and Metra kit... think about it a Metra kit is like 150 + a new HU lets say another 400 so like 500 alltogether!!! When most of us already have a decent sounding Monsoon HU.

I have read this thread and It makes sense and all, but why not use an epicenter of some sort instead of the reQ? I mean it's cheaper and you can control the bass using a second bass knob. In the last system I had, I had a soundstream bass enhancer installed (epicenter) and it was awesome... I got some serious bass even from spanish jamz!!! LOL

Alto of places now a day give you the metra kit cheap if you buy a deck from them like crutchfield i got a really nice deck and the metra kit was only 100 bucks if you live in the states its like 80 bucks there, but for taxes shipping everything all together it was like 406$ for a high end deck and metra kit, even that GM pac piece w,e its called is like 50 or 60 bucks so you might as well get the metra