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adding amp and subs to 06 G6

66319 Views 109 Replies 36 Participants Last post by  Jasonc13
i have tried to read as many threads as i could lol...but the answers i am looking for werent very clear to me.....how would i go about adding a 2 channel rockford amp to power 2 10"subs?..i wanna keep the stock deck, but just add some bass......i have read about the remote wire hook up, just not quite sure about the inputs for the amp itself.....being RCA jacks on the amp, is there a way to add this to the monsoon system?....thanks for any and all help!:beer:
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A word of caution about the line level converters. The monsoon amp attenuates the bass to keep from blowing the speakers. When you have a converter on the 6x9's, it works, but as you turn the volume up, the amp turns the bass DOWN. If you have a remote bass knob, you can probably compensate, but I didn't have a knob, and could never adjust the amp gains to play hard at high volume OR they'd bass me out when it was turned down. Best way around this is to tap the Monsoon amp inputs, as this is pre-EQ. I picked up a Radio Shack RCA speaker cord and cut it in half.

Hope this helps!
A word of caution about the line level converters. The monsoon amp attenuates the bass to keep from blowing the speakers. When you have a converter on the 6x9's, it works, but as you turn the volume up, the amp turns the bass DOWN. If you have a remote bass knob, you can probably compensate, but I didn't have a knob, and could never adjust the amp gains to play hard at high volume OR they'd bass me out when it was turned down. Best way around this is to tap the Monsoon amp inputs, as this is pre-EQ. I picked up a Radio Shack RCA speaker cord and cut it in half.

Hope this helps!
Yeah thats what I found When I started looking into adding amp and subs so this is what I used: http://www.reqsound.com/
Made it easy just spliced the rear speaker wires and got it for 80 bucks off amazon.
good point, but I was wondering if it were the radio that turned down the bass and not the amp... "Because the radio has the auto EQ and VOL level"
I thought I read that it was the actual head unit
good point, but I was wondering if it were the radio that turned down the bass and not the amp... "Because the radio has the auto EQ and VOL level"
Good question.... The answer is yes. The factory GM raido they have installed is a generic one used in several makes/models and they all have the same problom.. Also using the factory deck will (over time and at high level's) degrade the life of both amp and sub due to the "dirty" freq. being sent to it. Not to mention a few other bad things that can possibly occur because of it.
A word of caution about the line level converters. The monsoon amp attenuates the bass to keep from blowing the speakers.
Naw, it's not at all that nefarious. While yes it is true that the bass is reduced at higher volumes it is not for the reason you suspect. Instead the bass is boosted at lower volumes and that extra boost is leveled off as you turn up the volume until no extra boost is added.

Human beings do not have linear response to different audio frequencies as volume is increased from low to high (it's non-linear if you do a frequency sweep at a constant amplitude as well, but that's a different discussion). Back in the dark ages, radios were provided with a separate button or switch labeled loudness that when activated would add some bass boost. The idea was that you would turn it on at lower volumes and turn it off at higher volumes. As time progressed, the circuits got a little smarter and would roll off some (but not all) of the boost as the volume was raised. With the new Digital Signal Processing circuits commonly found these days (the Rock, Jazz, etc. auto-EQ), adaptive loudness has become part of the mix.

To set your stereo up properly, you should turn it up to the maximum level at which you will typically listen to it, then set all the parameters. As you turn down the volume, you should notice that the bass sounds about the same relative to the rest of the audio program as it did at the higher volume.

~ MattInSoCal
earning my title
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hey man. i have a g6 gt and iam trying to hook up one 12 and an amp ( and haven a hell of a time ) c i want keep the factory deck , just want to up grade the basssssss baby. i will try what i got you guys let you know what happens
someone ask about the remote wire hook up

i use the fuse wiper sw its a 10 amp fuse close to the bottom of the fuse box(or floor board) i did this so i can still listen to the subs with the car off u can use the ignition fuse but they will only work when the key is in the one position anything else just hit me up
yea, thats all nice, but what i did which might be more complicated was i took the whole radio out, hooked it up that way and ran the thin like 16gauge(blue wire-to turn off and on with ignition) wire from my amp down to the fuse box on the passenger side and on the left you can pop out the panel on the floor and i just hooked it up to one of the fuses so when the cars on, the subs and amp stay on etc. I had the little RCA power inverter(see through green "Peripheral"- brand) hooked up behind the radio instead of back by the 6x9's. Thats just how i did it. My system pounds!!! New 7'' Power Acoustik Double Din installing soon!!!! :) Installed Now ( 2 12" Alpine Type S with a 600w Sony Explode.)
i use the fuse wiper sw its a 10 amp fuse close to the bottom of the fuse box(or floor board) i did this so i can still listen to the subs with the car off u can use the ignition fuse but they will only work when the key is in the one position anything else just hit me up
Yep, thats exactly how i did it and it works swell!
so i do everything normal? power and ground for amp? remote wire to a hot ignition wire, a line out converter into the 6x9's-i don't need to bypass factory amps or anything? sounds too easy thanks
yeah i just want to confirm everything as well...so power to the battery, a ground, remote to a hot fuse, then what runs to the back of the head? and are the cables going to the head all thats left? thanks
2
most people were using a line out converter. you basically splice it into your rear 6x9's and it gives you the rca plugs to go into your amp. no need to get to the headunit. heres a couple you can use

scosche loc80

mtx-req
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i added two rockfordfosegate t1's 12's wired to a 1000.1 memphins monoblock d amp i didnt want to replace the head unit, so i got the rca converter and got the wires from the rears 6x9's i ran a four gauge wire for the batt to the truck. you will never get the same bass out of a stock unit then from buying a new deck but you will lose all your controls.:beer:
like it has been said on here it's really simple to do i did it to mine before i upgraded the headunit. just go to any place that sells audio stuff or you can even go to wal-mart and pick up a converter which will splice into one of your 6x9's in the rear deck and it will take that signal and give you your rca cable connection for the amp. then all you have to do is run the amp wires (power, ground and remote) like you would for any hook up. i found that the fuse box under the hood was the best place to find a switched 12v for my amp and then just run it and your power wire through the firewall through the big rubber grommet where the wires go into the cab. like whiteg6 said the stock radio is going to play a big role on your system but i was still pleased with mine. i would also getting if you dont have one is an external bass controle knob so you can controle your bass on the subs from the drivers seat and can turn the bass down on your HU so you dont hurt your other speakers.
Warning!!! I've upgraded/ modded my system. My new setup was 4 guage from the battery to the amp 1 ported box with JL 12w3v3 and JL 500.1 amp I used the Hi-Low converter with built in remote amp turn on.
DO NOT USE the Hi-Low converter with remote turn on if your hooking to your 6x9 deck speakers!! The sub back feeds into the 6x9's after turning off the car causing the feedback to go through the Hi-Low converter back to the sub. This causes a endless loop of loud rumble. I then cut that wire and ran the remote to the factory amp remote wire. Dosn't happen to everyone, but I think I made granny wet herself.


PS. I think the re-Q is good, but I don't know how it will work on the monsoon system. Being that the output from the factory amp is split between Highs, Mids, Lows. Was wondering if you tied the re-Q to the Low wires from the factory amp if it would still work right. I say this because I thought the re-Q needs Highs, Mids, Lows all on the same wire... Example. If you turned up the volume, and the "lows" from that amp is limited on volume as you turned it up, would the re-Q think that the volume just isn't turned up?
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im pretty sure all that just confused the hell out of me ha...to waterfowler- so when i splice into my rear 6x9's what cables am i taking from them to go into the converter? or rather what were the cables leading to originally before I lead them to the amp? and only one rear speaker or both?
also i've been browsing anywhere i could think that sells audio and i found this anyone give me some opinions or advice on that whole set? shipping tacks on an extra $90 just fyi

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Sony+-+Xplod+12%22+Dual+Loaded+Ported+Subwoofer+Enclosure+-+Black/9714644.p?id=1218156776229&skuId=9714644
click herefor the wiring diagram for our speakers. I only spliced into one side for my subs. but i used the re-q and it only had one set of "in" wires for the sub. if that makes sense. i splced them right before they go into the rear speakers.
is splicing just as simple as removing the coating for the wire and attaching the new wire to it and sealing it back up whether it be with tape or something else?
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