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48 Posts

yes it may be 14 inches high but you wont be able to fit it in very well in the little opening at the trunk and behind the seats is closer to 13 inches. I had a very hard time trying to get a 15" alpine in so i gave up

· Registered
11 Posts
Running 4ga Power Wire

Hello all! Great thread you have here.

I just wanted to share my process on how to run 4ga. power wire through the existing hood release gromet in the firewall. I did not want to drill any new holes in the firewall, even though that would have been way easier. I'm in a 08' GT coupe, but I don't think that really makes a difference.

I first straightened out a wire coat hanger. I filed down the end so it would not snag or tear the gromet when feeding it through the first couple times. I liberally applied vaseline (insert joke here....HAHA) as lube for both the coat hanger & 4ga. wire. I'm not sure if this is the best non caustic lubricant, so please check with a pro before using.

Once the coat hanger is run into the engine bay, be sure it wont pull on any AC lines or other cables/wires. You will need to apply a bit of pull on this coat hanger to get the 4ga wire through the gromet. We used a large set of vicegrips after bending a loop on this end.

Now snip off the end of the coat hanger still in the passenger compartment so it makes a sharp angle. Create a hook bend so it will go through roughly 2/3 of the 4ga wire. I pressed the hanger into the 4ga wire roughly 3/4" from its end. This helps to keep the hanger from ripping out of the 4ga wire as you apply tension. See pics below. I then ran some electrical tape around the hanger & 4ga wire to keep it all together when pulling through. I then applied a bunch of vaseline over the outside of the tape & down the 4ga wire.

Now time to pull her through! I had my "Never excited to help me" wife pull on the hanger as I pushed on the wire from inside. I have an archery arrow puller I used to push with, but jar openers or anything very grippy will also work. Just be sure not to lube on them.

It took us 2 tries to get her fed through. The hanger ripped out of the 4ga on the first attempt, and I then got yelled at by my helper. It's only b/c she almost punched herself in the face with the vicegrips when the hanger broke loose. Ooops!!

Now time for the gear ;)

I just ordered the re-Q5. I'll post pic's once I get her installed.
Amp is a Alpine MRD-M1005.
1.2 Farad Boss capacitor
For now I'm just going to use 1 sealed Type-R 12, but I will be going to a better sub once I sell my 2 type-R 12s and their ported enclosure.

I'm thinking one Alpine Type X 12, but I am open to suggestions.



· Registered
11 Posts
Its there on my 09 aswell.
I don't even want to look again on my 08, as I will feel like a real DOPE if I have that larger gromet as well!!:bawl:

Question for you guys:

What single sealed 12" sub would you recommend for this amp? I'm looking for sound quality over pure power. $500 is about as much as I want to spend.

Alpine MRD-M1005
Mono subwoofer car amplifier
500W x 1 RMS (4ohm, 12.0V, 1% THD+N)
700W x 1 RMS (2ohm, 12.0V, 1% THD+N)
700W x 1 RMS (4ohm, 14.4V, 1% THD+N)
1.000W x 1 RMS (2ohm, 14.4V, 1% THD+N)
Max. 1.800W x 1
S/N Ratio 90dBA
Internal, variable-speed cooling fan
Amp Link for single-cable hookup to compatible Alpine receivers
STAR Topology for cleaner sound
Bass Engine® features:
Low-pass digital filter, 30-200 Hz, with a selectable 12 or 24 dB/octave slope
Selectable subsonic filter (off, 15Hz, or 30 Hz)
Parametric EQ variable from 30-160 Hz, ±12 dB
Bass Compensator enhances low-end definition
Top-mounted digital control center with cover
CEA-2006 Compliant
MOSFET power supply and output stages
Preamp outputs
Time correction 0-10 milliseconds in 0.1ms steps
Phase adjustment 0-180
Turn-on delay
Requires 4-gauge power and ground leads and 80 amp fuse
Extra-large terminals
Fuse rating: 20A x 4
Dimensions: 13"W x 2-5/16"H x 8-11/16"D



· Registered
11 Posts
Don't buy Re-Q5

Just a couple points of what my system build criteria are:

1.Keeping the stock headunit in my 08 G6 GT with the Monsoon stereo is a must!
2. I will be replacing all speakers & adding aftermarket amps, as well as a nasty sub.

This being said, I needed to find a line out converter that supports mulit-channel A/V outputs. (Front, Rear, & Sub ) After some research, and speaking with the company, I decided to go with the MTX Re-Q5. It was about $90 off amazon.



I do not recommend this product. I spoke with cust. support techs twice before purchasing the product to verify it's compatibility with our monsoon system. One tech recommend I tie into speaker wires going into the the monsoon amp, while the other tech said to tie into the output wires from the monsoon amp. This should have been my sign.

So I buy the unit & install it exactly as their instructions say. I tapped into the output wires on the monsoon amp......NOTHING!! So I then try tapping into the wires coming from the HU..nothing!!! WTF?!?!?

I then call Re-Q support again explaining my installation, where the guy tells me there is special instructions for installing it into our monsoon system. ARE YOU KIDDING ME??? You have to connect the front speaker output from out HU to the rear speaker inputs on the RE-Q5. I would have never figured this out.

This did get a signal for the sub output, but what about when I want signals for the front & rear channels?? Will they be backwards? I don't know, and I'm not keeping the unit to find out. It has been returned to Amazon. Sorry for the rant, but I wanted to share in case others of you are trying to create the same type of system.

Upon further research, as well as asking some fellas over on the caraudio.com forum, this is the unit I am most likely purchasing:


A plus feature of this converter is it also has adjustable gain control of your sub in case your mono amp does not. It also has Aux input with gain control of that input as well.


I just got off the phone with an AudioControl tech, and he highly recommends going with their latest & greatest unit, the LCQ-1. THis unit has the Accubass feature, which the LC7 does not. This negates the factory roll off of bass our stereos have. Unfortunately it's $300 jeez!! Time to do more research I guess...


Anoyne have any experience with AudioControl products?
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