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Discussion Starter #1
Ok so I have a G6 GT with the Monsoon system
In it. I have some Subs and amps that a friend is going to sell me, and after reading tons of posts and other sites, I think i understand what I need to do.
I just wanted to verify I have it right before attempting this.

So I need to buy a four-channel line output converter, hook that up to the stereo and hook the amp to the converter. After that, hook the subs to the amp, run the power from the battery and the ground.

Now one question I have is where do I plug the blue remote wire into?
And is there anything I missed?


Please help! : (

I am going to be have 2 subs and an amp.
 

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I have a line out converter and thats the way I did it. There is a little trick with mine though that made the subs "work" i guess would be the best word. I can only have one rca cable plugged into the amp or else the bass is extremely distorted and they sound blown. When just one is in bass hits clean and sounds great, not sure why because I hooked up a converter for my buddy and his works fine with both attached.
 

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Wait!

Don't waste your money with the Line Out Converter. Buy a good quality amp that has a high input converter on it (speaker level input). This makes it so you can run speaker wire (thick good speaker wire) to your amp for your signal. I originally had the LOC but it created to much distortion. A rep from Crutchfield.com ended up recommending that I use the speaker level terminals. Doing this will alleviate the need for a remote wire because it will have "signal sense". This will also make for an easy install. Since you have the monsoon, your rear 6x9's have a a positive and negative bass line running to both of them. You need to tap into the bass line from both of those and run it to the amp. This will give you VERY clean sound. I have a Kicker L7 and it sounds AMAZING. Also, a pointer... if you want good sound tune your amp so you have lots of bass from the sub with the bass setting on the monsoon headunit at Zero or at negative bass (all the way to the left).

The lines going to your 6x9's are your best opportunity since they are already in your trunk lol

PM me if you have any problems. It took me a long time to get my system perfect and now its perfect so I have alot of experience
 

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Ya the high level input is definitely the best way to go but I already had my amp so had to settle until I am able to get a new headunit
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Don't waste your money with the Line Out Converter. Buy a good quality amp that has a high input converter on it (speaker level input). This makes it so you can run speaker wire (thick good speaker wire) to your amp for your signal. I originally had the LOC but it created to much distortion. A rep from Crutchfield.com ended up recommending that I use the speaker level terminals. Doing this will alleviate the need for a remote wire because it will have "signal sense". This will also make for an easy install. Since you have the monsoon, your rear 6x9's have a a positive and negative bass line running to both of them. You need to tap into the bass line from both of those and run it to the amp. This will give you VERY clean sound. I have a Kicker L7 and it sounds AMAZING. Also, a pointer... if you want good sound tune your amp so you have lots of bass from the sub with the bass setting on the monsoon headunit at Zero or at negative bass (all the way to the left).

The lines going to your 6x9's are your best opportunity since they are already in your trunk lol

PM me if you have any problems. It took me a long time to get my system perfect and now its perfect so I have alot of experience
Im a little confused. Dont I have to have a LOC because I have the stock radio from GM?

If someone could explain the wiring to me, it would greatly help!
 

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Im a little confused. Dont I have to have a LOC because I have the stock radio from GM?

If someone could explain the wiring to me, it would greatly help!
You do not have to have one if your amp has high level I/O that will replace the LOC and will not require RCA cables and will pull signal off of our factory speakers. Sorry dont have the wiring info right now
 

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unless i'm mistaken...the loc and an amp having the high level in/output are the same wiring concept. i used a loc when i wired my subs and amp in...i don't have the monsoon and the sound i got was clean n crisp, although i had no comparison to how it would've sounded with just the high level input. i ran the power and remote wires along the drivers side runners, put the remote in the windshield wiper fuse i think, grounded to an exposed bolt behind the carpet in my trunk, hooked my LOC to the wires coming out of my rear 6x9's, rca's to amp from LOC, hook subs to amp. donezo.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You do not have to have one if your amp has high level I/O that will replace the LOC and will not require RCA cables and will pull signal off of our factory speakers. Sorry dont have the wiring info right now
So essentially what you are doing is this.

Running power from your battery, running the ground.
Plugging the remote wire into a fuse that turns on when the car turns on.
Instead of having an LOC plugged into your stereo, just wire the amps directly to the back 6x9 speakers.
Wire the subs to the amp.

Am i missing anything?
 

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So essentially what you are doing is this.

Running power from your battery, running the ground.
Plugging the remote wire into a fuse that turns on when the car turns on.
Instead of having an LOC plugged into your stereo, just wire the amps directly to the back 6x9 speakers.
Wire the subs to the amp.

Am i missing anything?
I'm not sure if you just worded this wrong but instead of hooking LOC up to headunit you are going to hook up LOC to rear 6x9's. (unless you have a high level input amp. then you dont need the LOC) Its the same concept but instead of having rca cables to run to your head unit everything can essentially stay in the trunk. I haven't tried this but the fuse panel in the trunk has a fuse for the factory amp. fuse #13. I'm wondering if you could just hook up to that fuse so the only wire to actually run would be the power. Everything else would just stay in the trunk. Much cleaner install.
 

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yeah not sure about that amp fuse i don't see why not though that fuse is hot when the key is turned right? shouldn't be a problem if thats the case
thats what i was thinking. it would be so much easier to just use that fuse than having to run up the remote wire to the front.
 
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