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i have a 2008 3.5L with 71000km on it and all i had were the brakes to change and a front right speaker (but for the speaker im not surprised i drive with max volume :) . However, i do get rough idles and i got it scanned and its because of a misfire. I am not sure yet what causes the Misfire i believe its the wiring of the spark plugs because one of them turned white where it was touching the engine.
Did u get any codes?
 

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i have a 2008 3.5L with 71000km on it and all i had were the brakes to change and a front right speaker (but for the speaker im not surprised i drive with max volume :) . However, i do get rough idles and i got it scanned and its because of a misfire. I am not sure yet what causes the Misfire i believe its the wiring of the spark plugs because one of them turned white where it was touching the engine.
I've had some rough idle problems and one time the engine randomly got really rough altogether, with a CEL. Cleaning out the throttle body helped the one time - that thing was filthy. When I got the CEL and the roughness it was indeed a problem with the wires and where they cross the engine. They had been arcing through the insulation to the engine and it got to a breaking point. Once I got the wires off the one fell into two because of all the arcing it had been doing (Advance gave me a code for a cylinder misfire). There were little singe marks on the engine, too. I installed new wires and created a little bit of a gap but running them through some high temp conduit and wrapping in electrical tape where they go over top the engine. All has been well since then!
 

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I just purchased a used 2006 g6 gt and i'm having ignition issues. When i turn the key over it often doesn't turn over. I'm not sure if this is a fuel filter or fuel pump issue, or something else. Any ideas?
 

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I just purchased a used 2006 g6 gt and i'm having ignition issues. When i turn the key over it often doesn't turn over. I'm not sure if this is a fuel filter or fuel pump issue, or something else. Any ideas?
Put your key at on position and see if the fuel pump gives a loud buzz noise.. Could be the starter motor going out..put a can of seafoam in the gas tank see if that helps the fuel filter..and marvel mystery oil in gas tank for lubing the pump
 

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I just purchased a used 2006 g6 gt and i'm having ignition issues. When i turn the key over it often doesn't turn over. I'm not sure if this is a fuel filter or fuel pump issue, or something else. Any ideas?
I second the throttle body comment. Mine was rough turning over and sometimes wouldn't. Cleaning out the throttle body solved it.
 

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2006 pontiac g6v6 3.5. headlight driversside looks like the seals broken .all wet inside. any recalls 54,ooo miles only 211.00 for a new one. ca enyone help me out. a newby here. 51 years old. na mes Dan. thanks.
 

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2006 pontiac g6v6 3.5. headlight driversside looks like the seals broken .all wet inside. any recalls 54,ooo miles only 211.00 for a new one. ca enyone help me out. a newby here. 51 years old. na mes Dan. thanks.
You can try getting a tube of clear silicone and resealing the edges. My buddy said he once fixed his by running a line of superglue all around the edge of the lens where it seals.
You could also try baking the light or using a heat gun to re-seal it with the exsisting glue since it was made before 2007.
 

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2006 G6 GT, almost 100,000 miles

This car has been alright, though a couple months ago everything started to fail. I ended up replacing the front strut mounts (kept getting random grinding noises when turning because they were seized), tie rod ends, intermediate steering shaft (lubing the old one was getting tiresome), both front wheel bearings (multiple times), rear sway bar bushings, and some evap solenoid on the gas tank. Also replaced the front brakes and rotors to expensive drilled/slotted ones which resolved the warped rotor plague. Unfortunately now my rear rotors are warped and they will soon be replaced. Also had the electronic assist sensor replaced under recall, had to call GM and complain for them to do this free of charge.

Electrical problems: I've had it happen a couple times where the car will read nothing on all the gauges but continue to work. Since its only happened twice it is impossible to find the problem. Also have had the security light randomly come on while driving or turning off the car (not yet locked).

I have definitely had to put a lot of money into this car, though looking through the forum it looks as though I'm lucky compared to some.


Edit: I also have the problem of starting the car once it is already warm. Just seems to not want to turn over. Apparently getting the ECU reprogrammed fixes this issue. Also, they say that touching the gas pedal does not help start the car, yet every time I run into this problem I do have to use the gas pedal (not to the floor) and it starts up right away. Cleaning the throttle body did not make this issue any better.
 

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Found this forum when looking up a transmission issue. Purchased a base model 2.4l G6 in October of 2005 and the car has been pretty reliable since then. Only has 46,900 miles on it because it was never driven more than 50 miles from my home until 2011 when I drove it back and forth to college. Plus it was my first car so I babied the hell out of it. I have most of the receipts, but I'm going to guesstimate some things here. Regular maintenance completed every 3,000 miles.

10,000 miles: Visor broke, replaced for free
14,000 miles: Clunk in the steering, lubed shaft - $42
14,200 miles: Clunk returned, Replaced intermediate steering shaft- $250
16,150 miles: Power steering motor intermittently stopped working, car had low miles so dealer replaced for free
18,000 miles: Horn decided to stop working, replaced horn pad- $70
25,550 miles: New tires, brake pads, rotors, alignment, wheels balanced, turn signal bulb,- $1540:eek:
46,820 miles: Transmission began to intermittently shift rough, No CEL, mechanic found no issues -$42
46,850 miles: Transmission shifting rough again this time with CEL on and codes p0013/14, changed oil, updated TCM and cleared codes- $156

The problem with the transmission is still occurring. I am taking it again to the dealer with a printout of what others have found on this forum as well as part numbers. Hopefully the problem will be solved because unfortunately, I have to sell the car.
 

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Had the "engine power reduced" light come on and the car suddenly idols down and sometimes even dies. Tried cleaning the throttle body but still not much luck. Bought a new throttle body and I am going to attempt to change it myself tomorrow. Any videos online that you guys/gals could recommend to help me fix it? Or any advice from you all?
 

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2006 G6 GT, almost 100,000 miles

This car has been alright, though a couple months ago everything started to fail. I ended up replacing the front strut mounts (kept getting random grinding noises when turning because they were seized), tie rod ends, intermediate steering shaft (lubing the old one was getting tiresome), both front wheel bearings (multiple times), rear sway bar bushings, and some evap solenoid on the gas tank. Also replaced the front brakes and rotors to expensive drilled/slotted ones which resolved the warped rotor plague. Unfortunately now my rear rotors are warped and they will soon be replaced. Also had the electronic assist sensor replaced under recall, had to call GM and complain for them to do this free of charge.

Electrical problems: I've had it happen a couple times where the car will read nothing on all the gauges but continue to work. Since its only happened twice it is impossible to find the problem. Also have had the security light randomly come on while driving or turning off the car (not yet locked).

I have definitely had to put a lot of money into this car, though looking through the forum it looks as though I'm lucky compared to some.


Edit: I also have the problem of starting the car once it is already warm. Just seems to not want to turn over. Apparently getting the ECU reprogrammed fixes this issue. Also, they say that touching the gas pedal does not help start the car, yet every time I run into this problem I do have to use the gas pedal (not to the floor) and it starts up right away. Cleaning the throttle body did not make this issue any better.

hey what symptoms did you get when you changed the tie rods? im getting a little clunking from front end over little bumps and with the car still and if you quickly move the steering wheel it feels loose and "clunky".. let me know
 

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I had only changed out the tie rod ends as my model (06 with electric steering assist) the inner tie rods are not replaceable and are actually built right into the rack and pinion. The reason I changed them was more so I had the clunk you're experiencing and wanted to change everything I could to eliminate it. Changing them did not make any difference. However, the clunk you may be experiencing could be related to the front sway bar bushings. That is all I have left to change and the clunk is only getting worse. As well, the looseness you're experiencing in the steering wheel (can be recreated by sitting in park and jiggling the steering back and forth) is actually the gear within the rack and pinion. It is a very common thing in GM vehicles and usually does not pertain to any safety risk, it is more so an annoyance. If the steering becomes too loose, there is a chance one of the splines on the gear in the rack is stripped and the whole rack will need to be replaced. Hope this helps.

Also a couple more things to add since I forgot. My single disk monsoon cd player mechanism stopped working a long time ago. The window switch that is built into the door latch (rolls down the Window partially in the coupe version when the door is opened) gets stuck often making my window roll up before the door is closed. The passenger vanity mirror lid broke a week after buying the car (have had it for 3 years now) and last week the drivers side one finally broke. Not sure how to fix them yet. Also, the car tends to really steer into any groove in the road and veers randomly when braking, I always have to counteract it while coming to a stop. Lastly, one of the flex joints in the exhaust needs to be replaced as I now sound like I'm driving a young kids hatchback civic with a tin can on the back. Sigh

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I had only changed out the tie rod ends as my model (06 with electric steering assist) the inner tie rods are not replaceable and are actually built right into the rack and pinion. The reason I changed them was more so I had the clunk you're experiencing and wanted to change everything I could to eliminate it. Changing them did not make any difference. However, the clunk you may be experiencing could be related to the front sway bar bushings. That is all I have left to change and the clunk is only getting worse. As well, the looseness you're experiencing in the steering wheel (can be recreated by sitting in park and jiggling the steering back and forth) is actually the gear within the rack and pinion. It is a very common thing in GM vehicles and usually does not pertain to any safety risk, it is more so an annoyance. If the steering becomes too loose, there is a chance one of the splines on the gear in the rack is stripped and the whole rack will need to be replaced. Hope this helps.

Also a couple more things to add since I forgot. My single disk monsoon cd player mechanism stopped working a long time ago. The window switch that is built into the door latch (rolls down the Window partially in the coupe version when the door is opened) gets stuck often making my window roll up before the door is closed. The passenger vanity mirror lid broke a week after buying the car (have had it for 3 years now) and last week the drivers side one finally broke. Not sure how to fix them yet. Also, the car tends to really steer into any groove in the road and veers randomly when braking, I always have to counteract it while coming to a stop. Lastly, one of the flex joints in the exhaust needs to be replaced as I now sound like I'm driving a young kids hatchback civic with a tin can on the back. Sigh

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Thanks for the advice man. Did you ever have to lube your intermediate steering shaft? i got the same problem when driving, the car follows the grooves on the road but i found out that maybe my tires are the reason for that because i changed my tires and it started doing that.. i also get pulling to one side when braking probably due to alignment or maybe our cars were built poorly.. my car has around 150,000km (LX9) but in idle the car sounds like it has over 300,000kms with little valve ticking and some random tapping/knocking noise. im also getting 400km if im lucky from full to empty on a gas tank what do you get? i know something is wrong with mine because i have a jumpy/rough idle and im dumping a lot of $$ trying to fix it up
 

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I lubed that intermediate shaft so many times lol. I had it down to every 3 months it would need to be redone, eventually I just replaced it with the new version (there are V shaped grooves around the shaft which eliminate any movement so no need for lube). The only rattling I get now is from the sway bar bushings, still noisy and annoying though. As far as the pulling while braking and alignment, I've had numerous alignments done and it hasnt solved the issue, along with new tires. I think it is just the wide profile of the tires, I've done a lot of research and the term is apparently tramlining. I have 146k km's and I can sort of hear the rockers but theyre not too bad. I use seafoam every second oil change to clear out any gunk in the engine. I experience the jump/rough idle very randomly, it comes and goes as it wants. As far as fuel economy, depending how I am with the gas, city driving can be anywhere from 400-480km. When I fill, it tells me I have 540ish Km's until empty but I have never got that far.

You might want to try throwing some seafoam into your engine to try and clean out some carbon build up, I can honestly say it works amazing, not to mention the smoke show you get while doing it. lol
 

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I lubed that intermediate shaft so many times lol. I had it down to every 3 months it would need to be redone, eventually I just replaced it with the new version (there are V shaped grooves around the shaft which eliminate any movement so no need for lube). The only rattling I get now is from the sway bar bushings, still noisy and annoying though. As far as the pulling while braking and alignment, I've had numerous alignments done and it hasnt solved the issue, along with new tires. I think it is just the wide profile of the tires, I've done a lot of research and the term is apparently tramlining. I have 146k km's and I can sort of hear the rockers but theyre not too bad. I use seafoam every second oil change to clear out any gunk in the engine. I experience the jump/rough idle very randomly, it comes and goes as it wants. As far as fuel economy, depending how I am with the gas, city driving can be anywhere from 400-480km. When I fill, it tells me I have 540ish Km's until empty but I have never got that far.

You might want to try throwing some seafoam into your engine to try and clean out some carbon build up, I can honestly say it works amazing, not to mention the smoke show you get while doing it. lol
damn i put white lithium grease spray on mine (under the dash) and still clunks like its gonna fall apart.. how did you lube yours? or did the shop do it? your right.. how long do you keep seafoam in the engine? i heard its bad if you keep it for too long, ill be trying that when i do my oil change soon. i used seafoam thru the vac line a lot of times and it was smoky as hell but my engine chugging and bad gas mileage didn't get fixed so i stopped using it... i drive okay and in the city i get about 300km or under if i am lucky.. took it to a road trip (hwy) and only got about 400km from full to quarter which is crazy for a 65L tank and the 3.5 is supposed to give very good gas mileage on the highway.. you think you know whats wrong with it? what i should change/tune up? let me know man!
 

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I used the lithium grease spray as well. When I did it, I would disconnect the knuckle joint right at the steering wheel, spray grease on the shaft, then push the shaft in and out so the grease worked its way in. Eventually I just bought the replacement part and did it myself, it isnt too difficult to replace, one of the easier things I've had to do.

As far as seafoam, I usually pour about a quarter of a can into the oil about 100-200km's before I do my oil change. Pouring about half a can in the gas tank and letting it run through also helps.

As far as the mileage goes, What youre getting is pretty close to what I get (on the highway). I'd say about 400km's until quarter of a tank. Of course the speed you're travelling at and wind/temperature also affects this.

As far as the rough idle, it is very hard to pinpoint the problem as there can be many things causing it. I would start with a tuneup, replace plugs and wires, etc. Then go from there. Could even be a clogged fuel filter.
 

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Clunking noise when I steer normally at low speeds on my 2008 Pontiac G6 GXP sedan, dealership says it's the steering box which needs to be replaced at cost of over $1K. Any ideas out there ?
 

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Clunking noise when I steer normally at low speeds on my 2008 Pontiac G6 GXP sedan, dealership says it's the steering box which needs to be replaced at cost of over $1K. Any ideas out there ?
Frankie064,

I am sorry to hear that you are experiencing an issue with your vehicle. Please let me know if I can be of any assistance.

Safe travels,

Jennifer T.
GM Customer Care
 
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