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Discussion Starter #1
I just purchased an APC cone filter for my 2007 3.5 GT, after looking at a universal APC kit and ultimately deciding it wouldn't work in the cramped engine bay, i decided to just purchase the filter and hope to use the existing tubing and just remove the air box. i wanted to test it out prior to removing the air box, I disconnected the hose where the silver clamp ring was and inserted the hose into the cone filter and tightened it down with the new silver clamp ring. I started the car and it sounded like it was struggling and my TC off light came on and would no go off, regardless if I pushed the button repeatedly. What is the plastic section between the air box and the plastic hose? There appears to be a sensor there, with wires coming out of the piece. Forgive me if
i am being an absolute moron and don't know it.

Thanks,
Bradley
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the help! i'll def look into a heat shield. I haven't opened the air filter box yet (do you really have to take out all those star bolts?) but I thought about somehow using the existing box as a heat shield. So how do you keep the mass air flow sensor intact? from what I can tell where the sensor housing connects to the air box, the connection is not round. Which would make it hard to attach a round filter to it...
 

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after you disconnect it you'll see that it is round. but i think youll need a coupler for the air filter to attach...heres a pic of mine with the crabs heat shield.



and yes you do have to remove the star screws....and after you get this done search around and youll find info on removing your intake resonator, it will free up some air for your intake.
 

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Decepticon Extraordinaire
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... where the sensor housing connects to the air box, the connection is not round. Which would make it hard to attach a round filter to it...
I do not recommend you put an intake on the 2.4 without a tune to correct for the lean issues.

If your running the 3.5 then it is round....???
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I am running the 3.5, I haven't actually separated all the parts/pieces yet, just looking from the outside it looks like an odd shape, but I'll trust the knowledge here, thanks again.
 

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Jimmy B.
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Due to the heat issue, I myself thought about if there is a way to use the stock air box with a cone filter but I couldn't think of anything. The way the box is set up it would be difficult to cut or alter in any way much less do it in a way that doesn't look completely boot leg. I don't really have any extra money to be spending on crab intakes and heat shields and such so I left the airbox stock, got the K&N drop in filter, took out the resonator, and made a grill ram-air intake tube. It seems to work fine but I haven't found a really noticeable difference good or bad- except possibly a slightly more aggressive sounding engine, which is probably because that resonator is gone.
 

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I find there is a noticable difference with my intake. The sound and performance, I would recommend getting the heat shield, after driving for a while I curiously open the hood to compare the difference in temperature and its quite different. Between the engine bay and the inside the heat shield so its doing its job :)
 

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Moderator Member Thingy
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+1 for heat shield

Lampoon, is there any benefit of getting a tune for the 3.5L with the CAI?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Man... nothing like hearing the growl on a 54 degree day... My ECON dropped to 18 mpg ( will hopefully go back up after I get used to hearing the growl :0) ) surprisingly my engine temp dropped from 225 on my morning drive to the next hash mark on the scale after install.
 

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I love the growl on it too. When I first did mine I used to step on it just to hear it haha now I can dial the gas pedal right and it makes a nice smooth growl on accelaration.
 

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Moderator Member Thingy
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My temperature has never gone above 200 and nobody's should If it does, you need to fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hmmmm I'll look into it, what temps do your engines normally run at? That's odd because 225 appears to be in the middle and there's no indication on the dash that it's a high temp. Thanks for the heads up.
 

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Moderator Member Thingy
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The middle mark for my temperature gauge is 200. My car usually runs at 180 unless I'm in the city where it is a lot of stop and go while sitting at lights so it will level at 195.

Your car should never go over 195. If it does, then the transmission fluid life span drops half (200 degrees compared to 225 degrees). The car is automated to kick in the cooling process once it goes above 195.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Wow, a little concerned now, my gauge sits right on the hash mark below 225. I am assuming that is 200? What could be causing the issue? This is occurring on 50 degree days as well, so I would imagine it would be hotter on warmer days. I consulted the manual, all it said was unless the needle is in the red section, the light is on and the chime is dinging your okay. The Internet is full of different theories on proper engine temp, so in relying on you guys the experts.
 

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I would listen to the manual myself. Unless its higher than what you are normally used to seeing or if the light comes on I wouldnt worry.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I would listen to the manual myself. Unless its higher than what you are normally used to seeing or if the light comes on I wouldnt worry.
Thanks for your input, I appreciatte it! I've only had the car for just under two weeks so I don't have a good base line for what it should be. What temp do you run at? Lol gauge seems like a curse, makes you wonder what other people without temp gauges do... I guess just wait for the light? :0)
 

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Haha well mine it goes up about halfway maybe a little further but yeah no lights is a good thing
 
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