take out the passenger panel in the trunk if you have a monsoon system the amp will be behind it.
audio monsoon and wiring
1. so i just got a g6 like a month ago and i want to install my old system in it... but i got a problem, how do i tell if its a monsoon system?
i checked the bottom of the 6x9's magnet in the back and i do not see any sort of brand name to tell me, there is no monsoon logo on the stereo head unit, there is no stock subwoofer and there is only 2 wires going to each 6x9 in the back and not 4 like i've read about.... also i do not find this "amplifier" im also reading about
2. how are the door speakers wired? is the tweeter wired separately or is it together with the door speaker?
like should i buy component speakers with a separate woofer and tweeter to replace the tweeter and speaker on the doors?
or should i buy a regular speaker with a tweeter on it and separate tweeters to replace the stock?
... is the wiring to the tweeter only highs and the woofer is only lows? i dont want to spend the extra money on a speaker with tweeters on it if they arent even going to be used
3. if i replace the 6 x 9's, is it worth saving the $60 to have like best buy install them or is it easier than it looks to replace it and $60 isnt going to be worth the installment?
all other wiring im going to do. (amp, receiver, door speakers)
4. if i do get new front tweeters, do they have to be 1 1/2 or can they be smaller, or would that be a bad idea?
5. if i replace my speakers, should i go with the higher watt speaker or should i go with the lower-watt speaker since im just going to use the head unit with no amp (price doesn't matter on these 2 items below)
like uh these:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_23781_Sony+XS-GTX1641.html
vs.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_18632_Sony+XS-GT1626A.html
thanks, sorry if its confusing, it's just im so confused, lol.
i checked the bottom of the 6x9's magnet in the back and i do not see any sort of brand name to tell me, there is no monsoon logo on the stereo head unit, there is no stock subwoofer and there is only 2 wires going to each 6x9 in the back and not 4 like i've read about.... also i do not find this "amplifier" im also reading about
2. how are the door speakers wired? is the tweeter wired separately or is it together with the door speaker?
like should i buy component speakers with a separate woofer and tweeter to replace the tweeter and speaker on the doors?
or should i buy a regular speaker with a tweeter on it and separate tweeters to replace the stock?
... is the wiring to the tweeter only highs and the woofer is only lows? i dont want to spend the extra money on a speaker with tweeters on it if they arent even going to be used
3. if i replace the 6 x 9's, is it worth saving the $60 to have like best buy install them or is it easier than it looks to replace it and $60 isnt going to be worth the installment?
all other wiring im going to do. (amp, receiver, door speakers)
4. if i do get new front tweeters, do they have to be 1 1/2 or can they be smaller, or would that be a bad idea?
5. if i replace my speakers, should i go with the higher watt speaker or should i go with the lower-watt speaker since im just going to use the head unit with no amp (price doesn't matter on these 2 items below)
like uh these:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_23781_Sony+XS-GTX1641.html
vs.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_18632_Sony+XS-GT1626A.html
thanks, sorry if its confusing, it's just im so confused, lol.
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
When you turn off and on the stereo headunit, if the word monsoon pops up then you have a monsoon system. If not, then all the power is allocated by the headunit.
It seems like you have so much planned that you are going to turn the whole sound system into aftermarket. If you are going aftermarket speakers, then you will want to hook up an amplifier IMO.
It seems like you have so much planned that you are going to turn the whole sound system into aftermarket. If you are going aftermarket speakers, then you will want to hook up an amplifier IMO.
1) Sounds like you dont have Monsoon- lucky you! (seriously)
2) The speaker setup is just like any other GM non premium. Mid bass woofer and a tweeter with a 6 dB cap crossover. They are run off a single channel of the head unit. Both items are 4 Ohms. The tweeter has only the 6 dB crossover which is cheap, small and not much of an xover.
Replacing this depends on your budget really. If you got $150-200 to spend get some good Comps- like CDT.
If you only have $50 or so, American Bass makes some killer coaxial speakers.
Dont do a coaxial speaker AND tweeters. Do it one way or the other or you will regret it...
Theres a ton of options. All boils down to budget!
3) Just install it all yourself. If you are doing the majority of the install anyhow why not?
4) 1" tweeters man. And if you do comps you will have to fab them into the sail panels. Dont expect them to just bolt in...
5) I wouldnt install a Sony piece of SHAT into any car for anyone for any reason. Take 15+ years of experience, DONT BUY SONY JUNK. Unless you are buying mid 90's Sony Mobile ES dont buy it. Complete garbage.
But to answer the question of wattage-
I dont think you would see a huge difference. Considering the Head Unit is going to be doing good to put out 15-25 WRMS at best...
I would consider a small 2 channel amp for the front or a 4 channel if possible. The SQ gain by running an amp for the front speakers is immense.
2) The speaker setup is just like any other GM non premium. Mid bass woofer and a tweeter with a 6 dB cap crossover. They are run off a single channel of the head unit. Both items are 4 Ohms. The tweeter has only the 6 dB crossover which is cheap, small and not much of an xover.
Replacing this depends on your budget really. If you got $150-200 to spend get some good Comps- like CDT.
If you only have $50 or so, American Bass makes some killer coaxial speakers.
Dont do a coaxial speaker AND tweeters. Do it one way or the other or you will regret it...
Theres a ton of options. All boils down to budget!
3) Just install it all yourself. If you are doing the majority of the install anyhow why not?
4) 1" tweeters man. And if you do comps you will have to fab them into the sail panels. Dont expect them to just bolt in...
5) I wouldnt install a Sony piece of SHAT into any car for anyone for any reason. Take 15+ years of experience, DONT BUY SONY JUNK. Unless you are buying mid 90's Sony Mobile ES dont buy it. Complete garbage.
But to answer the question of wattage-
I dont think you would see a huge difference. Considering the Head Unit is going to be doing good to put out 15-25 WRMS at best...
I would consider a small 2 channel amp for the front or a 4 channel if possible. The SQ gain by running an amp for the front speakers is immense.
cool thanks.
but uh what brands would u recommend then? i like sony.
but uh what brands would u recommend then? i like sony.
This should help out many of you. Each category is sorted alphabetically. Remember, not all of the brands on here are still being manufactured.cool thanks.
but uh what brands would u recommend then? i like sony.
*BEFORE YOU PROCEED*
This list is generally a consensus of members of this forum, and online communities in general. It is a ranking generally reflecting the overall build quality, business practices, warranty practices, and performance that enthusiasts such as ourselves typically seek.
This is by no means an objective list - no independent testing was performed on any products in the list, and any manufacturer in the list may make some products, which would individually fall into varying catagories, making lists like this difficult.
Furthermore, many products are application-specific; good for one application, bad for another. Determining if a specific product applies to your needs is your decision.
We strongly advise readers to independently research any products they are considering purchasing. This list is simply a starting point for making your own informed decisions in teh buying process.
Tthis list is here to steer newbies in the right direction. Not every product under every manufacturer, or even every category listed is equal.
There are still quite a few brands missing. If you would like to suggest corrections or additions, please post in this thread:
http://www.caraudiocentral.net/forum...ead.php?t=1076
Head units
----------------------
Audiophile Grade
Alpine F#1status
McIntosh Labs
Pioneer Premier (flagship models)
Good
Alpine
Blaupunkt
Clarion
Clarion ProAudio
Eclipse
JVC
Kenwood Excelon
Nakamichi
Panasonic MXE
Pioneer
Pioneer Premier
Sony Mobile ES
Phase Linear
Pioneer
Questionable
Jensen
Kenwood
Panasonic
Sony
Avoid
Audiovox
Boss
Dual
Jensen (older models)
Sanyo
Valor Multimedia
Amplifiers
----------------------
Audiophile Grade
Arc Audio
Audison
Brax
Eclipse
Esoteric Audio
Genesis
Harrison Labs
Helix
Incriminator Audio
McIntosh Laboratories
Orion (classic GS, HCCA, SX, GX, and XTR series)
Precision Power Inc (PPI) Art and AM series (classic)
Rockford Fosgate (early 90s, Punch and Power series)
Tru
US Amps (old models only)
Xtant
Zapco
Good
a/d/s
Alpine
American Bass
Audioque
Atomic
Autotek
Avionixx
Cadence
Cerwin Vega
Concept
Coustic
Crossfire
Diamond Audio
Directed (DEI)
Elemendal Designs (eD)
Elevation Audio
Hertz Audio
HiFonics
JBL
JL Audio
Kicker
Lightnihg Audio
Memphis Audio
MMATS
MTX Audio
Orion
Phoenix Gold (classic US-made)
Planet Audio
Precision Power Inc (PPI)
Rockford Fosgate
SoundStream
Sundown Audio
US Acoustics
Viper
Questionable
Alphasonik
Audiobahn
Crunch
dB Drive
Earthquake
Interfire
Kenwood Excelon
Lanzar
MA Audio
Massive Audio
Phoenix Gold (newer)
Tsunami
US Amps (newer models only)
Avoid
Bazooka
Coustic (old AMP series)
Jensen
Kenwood
Kole
Legacy
Optimus
Power Acoustik
Pyle
Pyramid
Sony
SPL
Visonik
Volfenhag
Main Speakers
----------------------
Audiophile Grade
Accuton
Alpine F#1status)
Bravox
DLS
Dyn Audio
Eton
Focal (flagship line)
LPG
Morel
Rainbow
ScanSpeak
Seas
Vifa
Good
a/d/s
Adire Audio
Alpine
American Bass
Arc Audio
B&C
Beyma
Boston Acoustics
CD Technologies (CDT)
Cerwin Vega
Crystal
DB Drive
Diamond Audio
Eclipse
Earthquake
Eminence Audio
Focal
Hertz Audio
Hybrid Audio
Focal
Fusion
HI-VI Research
Illusion Audio
Image Dynamics
Infinity
Interfire
JBL
JL Audio
Kicker
LPG
Massive Audio
Max-Fidelity
MB Quart
Memphis Audio
Peerless
Pioneer
Polk Audio
Quantum
Resonant Engineering (RE)
Rockford Fosgate (RF)
Usher Audio
Visatron
Zapco
Questionable
Kole
Phoenix Gold
Planet Audio
Power Acoustik
Powerbass
Avoid
Audiobahn
Boss Audio
Crunch
Dual
Jensen
Kenwood
Sony
Soundstorm
SPL
Subwoofers
----------------------
(Due to the constantly changing nature of the subwoofer market, and the fact that there are numerous subcatagories for competitors, an Audiophile Grade catagory has not been included for this section.)
Good
Alpine
Alumapro
American Bass
Arc Audio
Ascendant Audio
Atomic
Audiopulse
Audioque
Autotek
Boston Acoustics
Bravox
CD Technologies (CDT)
Cerwin Vega
Concept
Coustic
Crunch
Crystal
DB Drive
DC Sound Labs
Diamond Audio
Digital Designs (DD)
DLS
Dyn Audio
Eclipse
Fi Audio
Focal
Funky Pups
Fusion
Hertz Audio
HiFonics
Image Dynamics
Incriminator Audio
Infinity
Inhuman Audio
Interfire
JL Audio
Kicker
Lightning Audio
Massive Audio
MB Quart
Memphis
MMats
MTX Audio
Onyx Audio
Orion
OZ Audio
Pioneer
Planet Audio
Polk Audio
Powerbass
Quantum
Rainbow
RD Audio
Resonant Engineering (RE)
Rockford Fosgate
Shok Industries
SSA (Sound Solutions Audio)
Sound Splinter
Stereo Integrity
TC Sounds
Treo
Xtant
Questionable
Adire Audio
Coustic
Earthquake
Elemental Designs (eD)
Elevation Audio
Kicker Solobaric square subs
Kole
Phoenix Gold
Power Acoustik
SoundStream
SPL
Avoid
Alphasonik
Alpine (Type-E series)
Audiobahn
Bazooka
Boss Audio
Dual
Jensen
Kenwood
MTX (6000's and under)
Pioneer (lower models)
Power Acoustik
Pyle
Sony
Soundstorm
Volfenhag
Wiring
-----------
Good
American Bass
Audiopipe
Audison Connect
Directed
Hooker Audio
Kicker
Knukonceptz
JL Interconnects
Phoenix Digital
Scosche
Streetwires
Tsunami
Questionable
American Bass
Audiobahn
MA Audio
Avoid
Raptor
Batteries
---------------
Good
Deka
Duralast
Eagle Picher
Everstart (Maxx batteries)
Exstatic
Interstate
Kinetic
Northstar
Odyssey
Optima
Powermaster
Scosche
Sears Die Hard Gold and Platinum series
Stinger
Tsunami
Avoid
(none placed here yet)
Alternators
-------------------
Good
DB Electrical
DC Power
Excessive Amperage
H/O alternators
Lestek
Mechman
Ohio Generator
Powerbastards
Powermaster
Stinger
Wrangler
Questionable
Iraggi
Motor City Reman (MCR)
Avoid
(none placed here yet)
Dash Kits/Install Accessories
---------------------------------------------
Good
American International
Metra
Questionable
Scosche
Avoid
(none placed here yet)
I love my Boss amp 
I also have a Lightning Audio sub that I thought was a piece of crap, but I think it might be worth something now... Where is kicker in the subs? Nice list though. I keep this in mind
I also have a Lightning Audio sub that I thought was a piece of crap, but I think it might be worth something now... Where is kicker in the subs? Nice list though. I keep this in mindThe list was reworked a bit back- updated. Its now more specific. Obviously some stuff was missed.
Boss amps good? lol They have never been good in the 15 years Ive been doing this.
Lightning Audio did have some subs produced by TC Sounds. Those are good. Rest is crap.
Boss amps good? lol They have never been good in the 15 years Ive been doing this.
Lightning Audio did have some subs produced by TC Sounds. Those are good. Rest is crap.
i like my sony head unit and my kenwood amp
they work great for the price.
also, so ur saying there will be no quality difference between like a 100rms vs a 60rms speaker since it's only going to be getting like 17rms from the head unit? (same company speakers, like alpine or something.. alpine type s VS. alpine type r)
they work great for the price.
also, so ur saying there will be no quality difference between like a 100rms vs a 60rms speaker since it's only going to be getting like 17rms from the head unit? (same company speakers, like alpine or something.. alpine type s VS. alpine type r)
I don't quote me on this, but if you put a speaker that is significantly more powerful than the power source (aka headunit or amp) then you can damage the power source since the speaker requires more power than the unit can give out.
That is a myth. Just like giving a speaker to much power is better than not enough.
Think about it logically...
Think about it logically...
Just Curious/ Monsoon Speaker Wiring
I plan to only upgrade my speakers door 6.5 and my rear 6x9. What would it
be like to simply tie end the low pos and neg wiring of each speaker together
to make one left and right side and mount it to a 2 or 3 way 6x9 speaker. I'm
just thinking if the Monsoon amp has separate frequency line to both speaker
on the 6x9, would it damage anything? I'm at a stop for now but here is what
I plan to do.
Attach a AudioControl LC6i LOC from the Monsoon amp and from the LOC to
the stand speakers 3-way 6 x 9 and 3-way 6.5. Setting both front and rear
may be also consider in a component setup if need be. The answer to this
question depends on what I might do.
Please help!
I plan to only upgrade my speakers door 6.5 and my rear 6x9. What would it
be like to simply tie end the low pos and neg wiring of each speaker together
to make one left and right side and mount it to a 2 or 3 way 6x9 speaker. I'm
just thinking if the Monsoon amp has separate frequency line to both speaker
on the 6x9, would it damage anything? I'm at a stop for now but here is what
I plan to do.
Attach a AudioControl LC6i LOC from the Monsoon amp and from the LOC to
the stand speakers 3-way 6 x 9 and 3-way 6.5. Setting both front and rear
may be also consider in a component setup if need be. The answer to this
question depends on what I might do.
Please help!
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
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