just confirming the equipment setup in the first post worked in my 05 base model g6. (no monsoon) the only issue i have is it sounds like i'm in a cave. i adjusted the treble but its all the way up now it sounds close to perfection but you can still tell its off a bit if you listen closely. no static interference though, im guessing the hollow sound is interference of some kind, any help? other thaan that it works perfectly. only costed about 60 bucks with shipping and handling.
Aux-in for stock headunits! how-to guide for G6
7
G6 owners rejoice! I found a cheap way to add a quality auxiliary input to a stock G6 headunit! I bought and installed a
and it works great! Basically you plug youre car's antenna into the Modulator, and the modulator into the headunit. Because it is hardwired, it allows for much better sound quality than a wireless transmitter. It isnt quite cd quality, but its pretty good considering the price.
How-To:
Several People expressed interest in the modulator, so i figured a how-to guide for the G6 couldnt hurt. First off, along with the modulator unit, G6 owners will need antenna adapters because GM vehicles use a micro antenna fitting (
). You will need to remove a good portion of the dash to get at the back of the radio, so [ame]http://www.g6performance.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=5991[/ame] is an excellent tutorial (its a life saver).
After the dash is opened up, find a suitable place to install the modulator. I used double sided tape to stick it in with the fuse box (below and right of the radio). After the modulator is mounted, run the antenna hook-ups behind the radio, hook the modulator into the antenna and headunit using the adapters. Tuck the wires down behind the radio - dont worry, theres plenty of space.
![]()
You can see in the picture below were I located everything, and how I wired the power.
In the G6, the fusebox is located conveniently close to the radio, so running the wiring was a breeze.
![]()
Now connect the black wire to the frame (see above, bottom right), [edit] and tap (or tuck under) the red wire to the A/C fuse so that it will cut power when the ignition is off. The modulator comes with a 2 amp inline fuse so you dont have to worry about burning it up.
Now that the antenna and power is hooked up you need to find a spot for the power switch and 1/8" mini plug. The unit comes with a nice little housing that can be stuck in a good location, but i wanted to hide mine, so i installed the power and mini plug in the top of the cubby just below the A/C controls.
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Now youre pretty much done, but before putting the dash back together, test the system to make sure it works! The modulator can be set to broadcast on 87.9 and 88.1 FM (if i remember right), so pick whichever you want to set the radio to. After youre satisfied that everything works, put the dash back together and youre done! Here are some more pics of the modulator and my finished product.
![]()
![]()
Thanks for reading
! Let me know what you think and dont hesitate to ask questions if I didnt explain things well enough :glasses:
EDIT: I found that I was getting some interference when I cranked up the A/C. I looked an noticed that I had the wiring routed up against the A/C electric fan housing (behind the head unit), so I rerouted the wiring further away from it and the audio is clear.
How-To:
Several People expressed interest in the modulator, so i figured a how-to guide for the G6 couldnt hurt. First off, along with the modulator unit, G6 owners will need antenna adapters because GM vehicles use a micro antenna fitting (
After the dash is opened up, find a suitable place to install the modulator. I used double sided tape to stick it in with the fuse box (below and right of the radio). After the modulator is mounted, run the antenna hook-ups behind the radio, hook the modulator into the antenna and headunit using the adapters. Tuck the wires down behind the radio - dont worry, theres plenty of space.
You can see in the picture below were I located everything, and how I wired the power.
In the G6, the fusebox is located conveniently close to the radio, so running the wiring was a breeze.
Now connect the black wire to the frame (see above, bottom right), [edit] and tap (or tuck under) the red wire to the A/C fuse so that it will cut power when the ignition is off. The modulator comes with a 2 amp inline fuse so you dont have to worry about burning it up.
Now that the antenna and power is hooked up you need to find a spot for the power switch and 1/8" mini plug. The unit comes with a nice little housing that can be stuck in a good location, but i wanted to hide mine, so i installed the power and mini plug in the top of the cubby just below the A/C controls.
Now youre pretty much done, but before putting the dash back together, test the system to make sure it works! The modulator can be set to broadcast on 87.9 and 88.1 FM (if i remember right), so pick whichever you want to set the radio to. After youre satisfied that everything works, put the dash back together and youre done! Here are some more pics of the modulator and my finished product.
Thanks for reading
! Let me know what you think and dont hesitate to ask questions if I didnt explain things well enough :glasses:EDIT: I found that I was getting some interference when I cranked up the A/C. I looked an noticed that I had the wiring routed up against the A/C electric fan housing (behind the head unit), so I rerouted the wiring further away from it and the audio is clear.
81 - 100 of 116 Posts
adding a bluetooth option....
Yep, the next step.
Continuing the low cost theme, bought this adapter from Amazon.
Belkin F8Z492TTP Bluetooth Music Receiver
Good specs, good price, so I added it to my previous aux mod, allowing me to plug in any MP3 player or bluetooth attach any smart device.
Plays Pandora or MP3s straight off my phone without any wires. (Well OK, have to plug in the phone's power cable after a few hours of listening)
Installed a widget app on the phone that turns on the bluetooth and connects to the Belkin by pressing one icon.
Did have one issue where I have a dedicated power converter (hacked car USB power adapter) that made a static noise. Seems that these converters use a switch mode power converter chip that is great for charging but makes noise on the audio side. Tried several before I just gutted one and used a 7805 from R*Shack as a 5 volt supply. The Belkin only takes about 180mA, so with the voltage drop and current output it dissipates less than 2 watts, not much heat at all.
After everything I have about $30 in the mod, it is dead simple to use and sounds great to boot.
Much discussion about bluetooth compressing the audio, etc, etc. Well with the A2DP and EDR the bluetooth side isn't going to affect the music quality at all. Pandora (free version) at best is 192K and most compress MP3s to 256K or less, so unless you are listening to a CD/DVD you are losing some audio quality.
I am quite happy with the results, YMMV.
:beer:
-j
picture of Belkin adapter installed...
![]()
Yep, the next step.
Continuing the low cost theme, bought this adapter from Amazon.
Belkin F8Z492TTP Bluetooth Music Receiver
Good specs, good price, so I added it to my previous aux mod, allowing me to plug in any MP3 player or bluetooth attach any smart device.
Plays Pandora or MP3s straight off my phone without any wires. (Well OK, have to plug in the phone's power cable after a few hours of listening)
Installed a widget app on the phone that turns on the bluetooth and connects to the Belkin by pressing one icon.
Did have one issue where I have a dedicated power converter (hacked car USB power adapter) that made a static noise. Seems that these converters use a switch mode power converter chip that is great for charging but makes noise on the audio side. Tried several before I just gutted one and used a 7805 from R*Shack as a 5 volt supply. The Belkin only takes about 180mA, so with the voltage drop and current output it dissipates less than 2 watts, not much heat at all.
After everything I have about $30 in the mod, it is dead simple to use and sounds great to boot.
Much discussion about bluetooth compressing the audio, etc, etc. Well with the A2DP and EDR the bluetooth side isn't going to affect the music quality at all. Pandora (free version) at best is 192K and most compress MP3s to 256K or less, so unless you are listening to a CD/DVD you are losing some audio quality.
I am quite happy with the results, YMMV.
:beer:
-j
picture of Belkin adapter installed...
I used that same unit. It works great, but with the G6 power always on, I have issues with having to unplug it and plug it in in the center console to get my phone to connect. Not an issue for me, but could be for you where that unit is located.
And regarding the noise, I added a ground loop cable in between the bluetooth and the connection to the stereo, and that solved that problem. Something like this.
[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Kensington-Reducing-SmartPhone-including-iPhone/dp/B0031U1ATQ/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1342850211&sr=8-6&keywords=ground+loop[/ame]
And regarding the noise, I added a ground loop cable in between the bluetooth and the connection to the stereo, and that solved that problem. Something like this.
[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Kensington-Reducing-SmartPhone-including-iPhone/dp/B0031U1ATQ/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1342850211&sr=8-6&keywords=ground+loop[/ame]
Yep, the next step.
Continuing the low cost theme, bought this adapter from Amazon.
Belkin F8Z492TTP Bluetooth Music Receiver
Good specs, good price, so I added it to my previous aux mod, allowing me to plug in any MP3 player or bluetooth attach any smart device.
Plays Pandora or MP3s straight off my phone without any wires. (Well OK, have to plug in the phone's power cable after a few hours of listening)
Installed a widget app on the phone that turns on the bluetooth and connects to the Belkin by pressing one icon.
Did have one issue where I have a dedicated power converter (hacked car USB power adapter) that made a static noise. Seems that these converters use a switch mode power converter chip that is great for charging but makes noise on the audio side. Tried several before I just gutted one and used a 7805 from R*Shack as a 5 volt supply. The Belkin only takes about 180mA, so with the voltage drop and current output it dissipates less than 2 watts, not much heat at all.
After everything I have about $30 in the mod, it is dead simple to use and sounds great to boot.
Much discussion about bluetooth compressing the audio, etc, etc. Well with the A2DP and EDR the bluetooth side isn't going to affect the music quality at all. Pandora (free version) at best is 192K and most compress MP3s to 256K or less, so unless you are listening to a CD/DVD you are losing some audio quality.
I am quite happy with the results, YMMV.
:beer:
-j
picture of Belkin adapter installed...
![]()
2
bluetooth power....
@torridpsu
Found a wire that is powered the same as the radio and did a vampire tap.
Ran that to my hacked converter and it works great.
No problems with multiple phones using the bluetooth.
As an added bonus it has spousal approval so I am good to go.
![]()
...tapped
![]()
...secured
-j
@torridpsu
Found a wire that is powered the same as the radio and did a vampire tap.
Ran that to my hacked converter and it works great.
No problems with multiple phones using the bluetooth.
As an added bonus it has spousal approval so I am good to go.
...tapped
...secured
-j
If your post is in regards to mine, I'm actually asking the question. I don't want to go through the hassle of slapping $100 on a harness that doesn't work.
81 - 100 of 116 Posts
