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G6 brake light problem

After two weeks of installing a second brake light switch I came into this forums for the second time, only this time I wanted to say something.I would advice to all of those with this kind of problem to replace the brake pedal position switch [ if after replacing it works for some time] and sell the car inmediatly.....but then I thought what if you are just one of those buyers dealing with that now.

I first thought about installing an old brake pedal switch and send it to the input for the brake lights, but if the BCM goes into moddy mode it will override the invention.
I came to conclude there is no inmediate fix for this without messing with the Body Control Module. older model brake switches use to be 12 volt power in, power out when depressed. turns out when you depress the pedal on a 06 G6 that juice goes to the Body control module and from there the module speaks to the brake lights, shift release, cruise control and other components, so there is no way to bypass it.

So i guess for now I can only think that all of you guys need to contact each other and agree on when all of you would contact GM's president and demand a solution or push on a recall.
My customer bought a salvage title, the dealer won't even touch it even if this is a separate issue, but i think you guys have a chance.

Good luck!!!
 

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Mine was free....

It a recall. Call a dealership with your VIN and see if yours is under it.

I bet it is. Its a switch and some die-electric grease.
 

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Brake light issues

I am currently dealing with this problem. I have a 2007 G6 and my break lights were going on when I was accelerating/driving and the lights would go off when i would press the break pedal. Additionally, this has caused the cruise control to malfunction as well. I also have to floor the break to shift gears and when I first turn on the car and press on the break, there is a loud growling sound that happens. Its at my mechanics now so hopefully it gets fixed.
 

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I am currently dealing with this problem. I have a 2007 G6 and my break lights were going on when I was accelerating/driving and the lights would go off when i would press the break pedal. Additionally, this has caused the cruise control to malfunction as well. I also have to floor the break to shift gears and when I first turn on the car and press on the break, there is a loud growling sound that happens. Its at my mechanics now so hopefully it gets fixed.
You don't need to waste time or money with a mechanic. Simply apply the dielectric grease to the BCM connector as stated on this thread (look at my post on page 4). Less than $10 and 10 minutes of time and the problem will be solved!
 

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brake light issues

Well my car was ultimately "repaired" by my local mechanic. They replaced the part everyone says I wouldnt have to replace. I will say that it has improved the situation, however every 10 times or so the issue returns. I have purchased dielectric grease from amazon and got it relatively cheap. In case it becomes a problem, ill just apply the grease, and hopefully the problem will dissapear. I should also note that there are less growling noises when i hit the brake after turning on the car and the cruise control works as well.
 

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just want to say that dielectric grease doesn't fix the problem but may prevent it from comeing back.
dielectric grease does not promote the flow of elecricity it accually is a insulator that prevents it but its real benefit is it will seal off the connections from air preventing any more corrosion.
The reason the grease seam to help is the fact that the plug going to the BCM has known corrosion problems at the terminals.
The act of unplugging and plugging back in is cleaning the bad connections thus fixing the problem.
About 2 years ago I ran into the brake light staying on issue which also had the hard to shift out of park issue.
The problem is the voltage being supplied to the brake switch which is a rheostat is low.
I believe the voltage is suppose to be 5v to the rheostat but mine was consistantly low so I added a small voltage regulator I bought from radio shack that took the 12v from a switched 12v source and dropped it to the 5v and hooked it to the 5v line from BCM.
I just hooked in parrallel and it eliminated my brake light issues.
About a year later I found out that GM was recommending changing the wiring harness to correct the problem.
I did not notice any corrosion on my terminals but I was not looking real hard for that issue, I thought maybe the power supply for the 5v in the BCM was going bad so I just added the voltage regulator in the circuit.
I have had no problems what so ever so my fix works but I would first start with just unplugging and plugging the BCM, the connectors will more than likely clean themselves and then use the dielectric grease to keep it sealed up.
If someone could post a wiring diagram for the brake switch I can better explain what I did, and I could confirm that 5v is the proper voltage needed at the switch. I know its less than 12volts its just been a couple years and I forget the details.
 

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DO NOT REPLACE THE BRAKE SWITCH!!! I did this when my brakes lights were on when I wasn't pressing the pedal. Also my cruise control wouldn't work. By your shifter, on passenger side there are some fuses, also your BCM. Buy dielectric grease from auto parts and cover your plug. The issue sounds like the same one I had. It just needs lube to prevent against corrosion. I replaced my brake switch and it didn't resolve the issue, it made it worse. I had to go to a dealer to have them program my brake switch. My local dealers wanted to charge me $90 to calibrate it and if it didn't work I was sol. Let me know if this helps.
 

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I was having the same problem as well as my radio intermittently dropping the display then coming back. The brake light issue was worst on bumpy roads but even cruising down relatively smooth freeway it would drop out. I knew that the electrical issue had a mechanical cause, so I disconnected my negative battery terminal, removed each BCM connector, added silicone dielectric grease not to fix it but to prevent further problems, then reinstalled then removed each connector three times before reseating them. The reason for installing then removing is that the connector contacts are made to be self-wiping (cleaning) when they are inserted and removed, and basically what I did was to give them an extra 'massage' to clear off more crud (oxidation). Since doing this, the car has been fine (except for a new driver's side rear door lock hangup at high temperatures).

~ MattInSoCal
 

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I was having the same problem as well as my radio intermittently dropping the display then coming back. The brake light issue was worst on bumpy roads but even cruising down relatively smooth freeway it would drop out. I knew that the electrical issue had a mechanical cause, so I disconnected my negative battery terminal, removed each BCM connector, added silicone dielectric grease not to fix it but to prevent further problems, then reinstalled then removed each connector three times before reseating them. The reason for installing then removing is that the connector contacts are made to be self-wiping (cleaning) when they are inserted and removed, and basically what I did was to give them an extra 'massage' to clear off more crud (oxidation). Since doing this, the car has been fine (except for a new driver's side rear door lock hangup at high temperatures).

~ MattInSoCal
So the radio display dropout issue is also caused by BCM terminal corrosion. I hadn't considered that.
 

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Just saw this thread and had the trouble with brake lights coming on while driving and it was also kicking off the cruise control. I realized what the problem was when it happened at night and I saw the roadsigns behind me glowing bright red and knew it was the brake lights.

My local (at the time) Norfolk, NE GM dealer said it was the brake pedal sensor out of calibration. It took a couple of tries and then a replacement switch to solve the problem and it has not acted up in over 3 years.
 

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Just saw this thread and had the trouble with brake lights coming on while driving and it was also kicking off the cruise control. I realized what the problem was when it happened at night and I saw the roadsigns behind me glowing bright red and knew it was the brake lights.

My local (at the time) Norfolk, NE GM dealer said it was the brake pedal sensor out of calibration. It took a couple of tries and then a replacement switch to solve the problem and it has not acted up in over 3 years.
But I'm guessing that your brake lamps did not go off when you pressed down the pedal.
 

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They would switch off by depressing the pedal only 1/8" or so. Sometimes the lights would stay off, sometimes I'd have to tap the pedal a few times to keep them off. They would come on during regular braking.
 

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They would switch off by depressing the pedal only 1/8" or so. Sometimes the lights would stay off, sometimes I'd have to tap the pedal a few times to keep them off. They would come on during regular braking.
Even though the stop lamp circuit now works fine, I'd go ahead & do the BCM connector cleaning procedure & applying of dielectric silicone gel.
 

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My brake light switch keeps going out which makes it to where my brake lights are on until i press on the brakes then the brake light goes off. i have a 06 G6. i have had it replaced two times and it went out again. has anyone had this problem and what can i do to make sure it doesnt keep going out. my mechanic says its the way it is designed but this has happened 3 times in three months! please someone help!!!::eek:
I was searching about the same problem. I just found out my remote start wont work because it senses the brake is being applied, so it shuts the motor off. My brake lights stay on until I apply the brake. I was told the brake switch is bad. I am wondering if there is more to it. I have an 09 G6 and I have replaced the headlights and the tail lights more times then I can remember. I know on the drivers side headlight, there was a recall on the harness.. But I haven't heard anything about this brake switch problem. Is it hard to replace?
 

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...My brake lights stay on until I apply the brake. I was told the brake switch is bad...

The specific symptom you describe is almost always caused by corrosion (a specific kind of corrosion seen only between metal electrical contacts & that you would not even be able to see) on the C2 connector of the BCM (the one at the topmost position-passenger side). Now if you have more symptoms or DTCs this info may not apply-all I know about your car is what you wrote.

Simply by pulling off that connector & re-inserting it a couple times (they're self-cleaning) removes the corrosion & by applying dielectric silicone grease to the metal contacting surfaces you can stop the build-up of new corrosion. The correct info is within this way-too-long thread (there's also a lot of confusing & incorrect information, unfortunately). GM dealer techs see this issue all the time. It's a very common problem for GM cars. If you're not comfortable DIYing it, I would imagine a dealer will do this for you for under $100 (but that is just a guess).
 
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