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Okay, so this past weekend I installed the Eibach Lowering pro kit. I went today to get an alignment done and got these results.



My question is can some explain what "maxed Out" means? Does that mean it can't be adjusted anymore? And how can I make the right rear wheel have a more positive camber? Do I need to buy a camber kit? Do i need to be concerned about anything?

Thanks for the help guys
 

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Maxed out means they ran out of adjustment room on the eccentric bolt. And no camber kits don't exist for the rear of the car. Maybe a solution for the rear will be out soon, another member was working on something... But you probably have something bent in the rear. One side should not be maxed out that much sooner than the other with the adjustments that far apart.
 

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over time the unibody can "warp" or flex to a new shape.. many times this is the issue.

there is a guy around here with new eccentric bolts, washers, and plates to fix this.. just waiting on him to post up what he's got figured out.
 

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I wonder when he's going to have an update? ;)
 

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well.. as it turns out.. i think the guy has some stuff on facebook up for grabs. Sounded like he only had 10 sets and is down to 7. you can PM me and I can get you some details.

or shoot me an email at [email protected] and I can put you in contact with him.
 

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Cruisin, you said you're 4° off. Do you have any handling issues?

Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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Nah. Corners pretty damn well. So far it can handle some pretty abusive driving.
The steering feels a little lazy but I blame the increased scrub radius of my wheel spacers.
The only downside is I commute nearly 100 miles a day, and Kumho tires really hate camber wear.
 

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Yeah, 100 miles a day here. I'm a very "spirited" driver. If the camber doesn't bother the handling, I'm hesitant to worry about shims :)

Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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Its too much camber and I probably do lose some handling just due the decreased surface area of tire on the ground. In the wet going fast enough it COULD break loose. Though it hasn't yet for me.
I only really try pulling turns hard in the dry anyways.

I can take fill circle on ramps at 50 with no worry or sound.
And I can hang single lane roundabouts at about 30-35 before the tires howl in pain.

So far I've been really happy with my setup, actually looking to do some autocross next month.

A buddy with a fab shop took a look at my control arms and mentioned cutting them and making them shorter... Idk about that haha.
I'd like some fully adjustable tubular control arms but I'm pretty sure that won't come cheap. Haha
I'd like to see what this current possible fix might look like lol
 

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Don't they go behind the wheel hub?

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Yeah so the hub is out of alignment, since the rotor is also on the hub the rotor is pushed out. But the caliper remains in the same position since its not bolted off the hub... Not sure how big of a deal that's really going to be on a sliding caliper, but nonetheless the rotor does end up out of alignment to the caliper...
 

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Its too much camber and I probably do lose some handling just due the decreased surface area of tire on the ground. In the wet going fast enough it COULD break loose. Though it hasn't yet for me.
I only really try pulling turns hard in the dry anyways.

I can take fill circle on ramps at 50 with no worry or sound.
And I can hang single lane roundabouts at about 30-35 before the tires howl in pain.

So far I've been really happy with my setup, actually looking to do some autocross next month.

A buddy with a fab shop took a look at my control arms and mentioned cutting them and making them shorter... Idk about that haha.
I'd like some fully adjustable tubular control arms but I'm pretty sure that won't come cheap. Haha
I'd like to see what this current possible fix might look like lol
Some static negative camber is actually good. I'd recommend around -1.5* on all 4 corners. Kind of needs it since the camber curve is so poor (car gains little negative camber when the wheel is compressed. The curve is totally ruined when people slam the car.)... The small amount of negative camber actually helps to counteract the body roll, keeping the outside wheels flat on the road surface, more grip. Sure the tires will wear worse if you do a lot of straight highway driving, but they'll actually wear better if you toss the car around a lot... But yeah, I would agree that -4* is just too much :lol:
 

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well.. those alignment parts I made seem to have fixed my problems with being lowered 2.5". I can post my results on here in a few days.

I think I have about 5 of these left if anyone wants at set. I'm not a vendor but had to have 10 sets made to met shop minimums, so any help on getting these to you guys would help me on the cost of getting them made.
 
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