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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys! So my wheel bearing was making noise on the drivers side so I decided to change both front. While I was doing this I needed to turn the wheels back and forth and I started the car to do this while the ABS sensor was disconnected. Put 2 brand new hub/bearing assemblies in with the ABS sensor. Connected both back up. As soon as I started driving the ABS, Traction control and Electronic stabilization control lights came on! FML! I disconnected the battery waited 45 min or so and reconnected. Went for a drive and sure enough all the lights came back on. Anybody know what the issue is besides maybe a bad sensor? :confused:
 

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The ABS system rechecks for problems at every ignition cycle so the fact that it's on means the problem is not corrected.

Tried reseating the connectors?

Conceivably a bad sensor out of the box I suppose. I think that's highly unlikely given it's a simple hall-effect type.

I cant find the resistance spec for the speed sensors but you might compare the two wheels. Otherwise you'd need an oscilloscope to check their output.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The ABS system rechecks for problems at every ignition cycle so the fact that it's on means the problem is not corrected.

Tried reseating the connectors?

Conceivably a bad sensor out of the box I suppose. I think that's highly unlikely given it's a simple hall-effect type.

I cant find the resistance spec for the speed sensors but you might compare the two wheels. Otherwise you'd need an oscilloscope to check their output.
Ok got the car scanned and the mechanic told me front right is bad. So I called the company who sold me the bearings and he sent me another one no problem. I just replaced it and nothing changed! Grrrrr! Ok so I checked the old sensor with my circuit tester. I have it set to Ohms at 20k. I put the red on one pin and black on the other pin and got nothing. Reversed it and got 9.21. Did the same with the other old one and got the same. I also did it to the new one and 9.51 but when I reversed the red black instead of giving me a no reading like old ones it gave me 2.92. I find that interesting. These numbers mean nothing to me but I hope someone can help me out here. :)
 

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Ok got the car scanned and the mechanic told me front right is bad. So I called the company who sold me the bearings and he sent me another one no problem. I just replaced it and nothing changed! Grrrrr! Ok so I checked the old sensor with my circuit tester. I have it set to Ohms at 20k. I put the red on one pin and black on the other pin and got nothing. Reversed it and got 9.21. Did the same with the other old one and got the same. I also did it to the new one and 9.51 but when I reversed the red black instead of giving me a no reading like old ones it gave me 2.92. I find that interesting. These numbers mean nothing to me but I hope someone can help me out here. :)
Assuming they found a c0040 code that means there is a problem somewhere in the RF wheel speed sensor circuit. The circuit of course includes the sensor but does not stop there. Your issue may be with the connector or harness. There is just no way to know without testing.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Assuming they found a c0040 code that means there is a problem somewhere in the RF wheel speed sensor circuit. The circuit of course includes the sensor but does not stop there. Your issue may be with the connector or harness. There is just no way to know without testing.
But everything worked fine before changing the hub/bearing assembly. so it must be the sensor. These assemblies were purchased off ebay. They were pretty cheap but new. I wonder if that's the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Just wanted to update. The new sensor was bad on the driver side. Replaced it with an oem hub/bearing and all the warning lights turned off and it's all good to go.
 
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