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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Check out this article below to see some real numbers on temperature changes for different intake setups. I thought it spoke volumes on shielding (you really need 100%) and how our 4 foot intake pipe is holding us back... way back.

I want to build a enclosure for the filter and not just a wall. On my charger I had the aem brutefource with a wall heat shield, like the crab, but I used pvc pipe elbow'ish thing to surround the cone filter. I put silicone around the edge that pressed against the heat shield wall. the cut a 6 inch wide pvp pipe down to the hole in the fender wall. And siliconed that edge there too. Worked great but looked like a planters pot.

Our stock air box is to narrow to modify so are there any suggestions on design or materials?

On my charger I used header wrap on the intake pipe but first sprayed the pipe with silicon "heat reflector" and then sprayed the wrap also once it was on. I would like to step this up on the g6 by doing the wrap and spray but also doing an enclosure for it. Any suggestion?

Also wondering if any ones done a dual intake with other way closer to the throttle body on the right side or has just one on the right side somehow.



3.0 Standard air box

- Idle Temp: 41C. Driving Min Temp: 36C. Max Temp: 44C. These temps will be taken as a baseline.

3.1 Trends - Temps very consistent once on the move. Temps rose slowly when stationary.

The temperatures for the test below will be + or - the standard air box temperatures.

4.0 Foam Induction Filter Alone (No heat shielding)

- Idle Temp +7C over standard air box. Driving: Min Temp +4C
over standard air box. Max Temp +10C over standard air box.

4.1 Trends - Temperature changed very quickly. Temps rose when stationary, fell sharply when on move. Higher intake temperatures than standard air box.

5.0 Foam Induction Filter With Heat Shield behind base of filter

- Idle Temp +6C over standard air box. Driving Min Temp -4C under standard air box. Max Temp +3C over standard air box.

5.1 Trends - Temp changed more slowly than with no heat shield. Temps lower in general compared to no heat shield. Temperatures generally higher than standard air box.

6.0 Enclosed Air Filter With Intake Solely From Cold Air Feed

- Idle Temp +14C over standard air box. Driving: Min Temp +3C over standard air box min temp. Max Temp -1C under standard air box max temp.

6.1 Trends - Temps generally higher. The cold air feed was routed to receive air from the bottom of the car. The heat soak from the engine was making the feed incredibly hot and therefore heating the intake charge as it passed through it. I would not recommend having a cold air feed routed in any part of the main engine compartment, and to keep the feed as far away from the exhaust manifold and engine block as possible. Cold Air Intake not as effective as imagined.

7.0 Air Filter With Opened Enclosure With Heat Shields Completely Isolating Air Filter From Engine Bay And Exhaust Heat - Air Flow In Around Headlight and From Inner Wing - No Ducting Was Used.

- Idle Temp -6C under standard air box. Driving: Min Temp -9C under standard air box min temp. Max Temp -14C under standard air box max temp.

7.1 Trends - Temps lower and steady. When the car was stopped at traffic lights the temperatures rose very slowly approx 1C every thirty seconds. Once on move temps dropped very quickly.

8.0 Conclusion - Heat Shields should be used with an induction kit to ensure the intake charge is not heated by the main engine bay. Cold Air Intakes should not be exposed to the main engine compartment, ie between the two suspension turrets and between the firewall and front bulkhead. If possible a feed should be taken from the wheel arch or from the head light and a shield should be located to completely isolate the filter from the heat of the engine and exhaust.

9.0 Extra Observations - While assembling the heat shields I noticed that the black rubber pipe that connected to air filter to the inlet manifold was getting extremely hot. Given the effect the heat had on the cold air feed, the next step will be to construct a heat shield for this pipe. This test will appear shortly.

· Registered
19 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
If you funnel air to the box via Ram Air (hood or scoop) then you put positive pressure in the box. No need to seal it. Also I wouldnt want it sealed so water can escape.

but hey....thats just me. The Crab is a box...not just a shield.
You have coverage on all sides with the hood being the lid.
I'm looking for 100% enclosure. From the pics it looks like the bottom and the hole would need siliconed or rubbered to block the engine air. Not to insult your product, which I think is great. I wish more people would make products for the G6 like you have. besides, I don't have paypal or 84 extra bucks

I think I'm just going to port the stock intake and build walls, between to top and bottom part, to allow the round cone filter to fit. I think some clear thick 1/4 acrylic walls would be cool and maybe cut out a top window to see to filter. I might even put some led in there to "tuner" it out. Or just make a complete box out of the acrylic. :D

· Registered
19 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The bottom hole is where your intake gets its air....or are you talking about raming air into the box from above? Youve confused me now.

I havent seen lights in the shield yet though!!

Kinda hard to be original to a car thats 5.5 yrs old.

Post up snaps on what end up with.
Ya from the air bottom.

True, I need to use the search more I guess before I post about a "new" idea.

Pressure switch that turns the lights on under vacuum would be sweet.

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