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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

My convertible top hasn't worked in a few years now. Initially it started with me trying to open it, windshield latches popped, the trunk popped like it was going to transition but went no further. Initially I thought it was either a hydraulic fluid level issue or maybe the pump was going bad. I transitioned it back closed. It locked the windshield pulling it tight as well as the trunk lid but it said "Top Not Secured" on the DIC. I had taken it to a mechanic friend and he tried the pump relays to see if they worked. He unlatched the top and the trunk manually and tried the roof hydraulics and he could get the roof to lift so I think the pump is good. We put the top down and latched every thing back up but still it shows "Top Not Secured" on the DIC. Fast forward a couple years and I decided to pull the codes to see if someone knows what switch is tripping. I have inspected the wires in the trunk and repaired a few but still no good. Below are what my friends Autel scanner reads when the car is sitting, windows down. From the below I would think maybe it's the "Folding top downstack receiver switch" as it says Not in position or the "RCL release switch" since it says Unlatched. But I have no idea what these are or where to locate them I thought there was a lot more switches in the system. Maybe I need to rescan it with my friends Snap-on? I know the Autel I used is one of the expensive units as it allows you to program, I think my friend spent like $1300 on it. Any help or ideas would be appreciated.

Commanded State: Closed
Top control Switch: Closing
Luggage Barrier in Place: Yes
Folding top header dowel pin: In position
Folding top header latched: yes

Folding top bell crank switch: Over center
Folding top header latch cylinder: Latched
RCL front switch ready to latch: Not in position
Left front RCL latched switch: Active

Left front RCL unlatched switch: Inactive
Right front RCL latched switch: Active
Right front RCL unlatched switch: Inactive
Folding top downstack receiver switch: Not in position

RCL release switch: Unlatched
RCL cylinder extended: No
Battery voltage: 11.90v
Logic battery: 12.00v
Motor command: 0
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
GM Bulletin No.: 07-08-67-010C might be helpful.
I didn't post a link, but Google can pull it up

Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk
Thanks, I had read that bulletin before I posted. Maybe I need to read it again. To me it was not clear from the codes I was seeing as to what was not in the state it needed to be in for the top to operate. Something is obviously not happy somewhere.
 

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Kind of a guess based on what I am reading. When the scan was taken it looks like the top was in the closed position (roof up, clamps on the windscreen securing the roof). If that is the case, then one of the last parts of the top close motion in to secure the clamps that allow the trunk to reverse open. I would be looking at the wiring on both left and right reverse open hinges as well as the micro switches in the same area. There are switches that indicate the trunk lid is seated and for the position of the claws. The wiring here has been known to crack and break. If you still have access to the scan tool, you can follow the guide Davez26 mentions to see which switches change the scan tool state.

Hope you find and fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Kind of a guess based on what I am reading. When the scan was taken it looks like the top was in the closed position (roof up, clamps on the windscreen securing the roof). If that is the case, then one of the last parts of the top close motion in to secure the clamps that allow the trunk to reverse open. I would be looking at the wiring on both left and right reverse open hinges as well as the micro switches in the same area. There are switches that indicate the trunk lid is seated and for the position of the claws. The wiring here has been known to crack and break. If you still have access to the scan tool, you can follow the guide Davez26 mentions to see which switches change the scan tool state.

Hope you find and fix it.
Yes, the roof is in the closed position, thanks for the info. I had inspected those pesky little wires on the trunk arms before and did find some where the insulation was worn and I worn and could see copper. Maybe I need to check them again. While I can't pop the trunk cause of the DIC message I can bypass it and the trunk opens fine. I had thought I had checked one time those microswitches and they were activating but maybe not. I may need to borrow another friends Snap-on scan tool because I believe it tells me switch by switch what's going on. It being 20-degrees right now and no garage it's going to be difficult to check too much. Worse comes to worse I may need to split apart every wire and do an even more thorough inspection.
 

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Common for the hyd cylinders tp lose their gusto to complete the cycle, which will throw that message. Mine turned out to be cylinder on the left side by the trunk hinge. Top hydraulics repairs these.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Common for the hyd cylinders tp lose their gusto to complete the cycle, which will throw that message. Mine turned out to be cylinder on the left side by the trunk hinge. Top hydraulics repairs these.
Thanks. Assume if the microswitch is working correctly when manually depressed but not closing when closed then maybe this is the issue. Thanks for the tip!
 

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Thanks. Assume if the microswitch is working correctly when manually depressed but not closing when closed then maybe this is the issue. Thanks for the tip!
From most of what I've read, and my own experience, the electronics (ie micro-switches) aren't failing as much as there being a physical (frayed wires) or mechanical (hydraulic leak, main rams) issue. When performing a visual/physical inspection, did you notice or have to "top off" the hydraulic fluid in the pump? Feel or see any hydraulic fluid under the main rams? Even with a small leak (which will lead to complete failure) you'll start to see "Top Not Secure".
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
From most of what I've read, and my own experience, the electronics (ie micro-switches) aren't failing as much as there being a physical (frayed wires) or mechanical (hydraulic leak, main rams) issue. When performing a visual/physical inspection, did you notice or have to "top off" the hydraulic fluid in the pump? Feel or see any hydraulic fluid under the main rams? Even with a small leak (which will lead to complete failure) you'll start to see "Top Not Secure".
Thanks for the reply. I have not seen any hydraulic leaks and the reservoir was full. I have found a fair amount of frayed wires around the hinges and I think I'd repaired them but I'm going to need to do a much closer inspection when it's not 20-degrees outside.
 
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