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Hey vassman,
I also have a 07 convertible and I would have to say that its the shocks. I had an old van that had that same problem and a new set of shocks fixed it.
-coastiejoe
 

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Fried like a Cheese Stick
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Hmmm...I'm trying to figure how a van would have a similar problem, but anyway sounds like the right solution. You figure all the extra crap mechanisms on there must put an extra strain on the struts :icon_chin
 

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The shocks on the back hatch started to go out and the hatch would sag when it was cold outside. Same principle, different car
 

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Slick Black Pontiac
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I've got a regular roof sedan and I have similar problems in winter.

It's not that the lid won't stay up so much as it falls down more easily than it should.

The shocks are weak when it gets cold. I believe that it has something to do with the gas in them being less dense due to the lower ambient temperature. If the gas molecules were heated up and excited they would increase the internal pressure and keep the lid up better.

I guess you could replace them, they just pop off, but I'd wait until spring and see if it isn't just a case of cold making it hard for things to stay up.
 

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I've got a regular roof sedan and I have similar problems in winter.

It's not that the lid won't stay up so much as it falls down more easily than it should.

The shocks are weak when it gets cold. I believe that it has something to do with the gas in them being less dense due to the lower ambient temperature. If the gas molecules were heated up and excited they would increase the internal pressure and keep the lid up better.

I guess you could replace them, they just pop off, but I'd wait until spring and see if it isn't just a case of cold making it hard for things to stay up.
 

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I've got a regular roof sedan and I have similar problems in winter.

It's not that the lid won't stay up so much as it falls down more easily than it should.

The shocks are weak when it gets cold. I believe that it has something to do with the gas in them being less dense due to the lower ambient temperature. If the gas molecules were heated up and excited they would increase the internal pressure and keep the lid up better.

I guess you could replace them, they just pop off, but I'd wait until spring and see if it isn't just a case of cold making it hard for things to stay up.
I am having the same problem up here in the frozen North. Do you have pictures, or other diagrams that would show me where these shocks are located ? Would appreciate your help.
C Pilkington
 

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Trunk Lid Struts continued

Thanks for the info. on the gas struts, especially the diagrams. I have examined the mechanism and the strut looks a little dificult to get at. I have also been told that the strut could be under high pressure and to be careful when removing them. Is this so ? and can anyone provide specific instructions.Do I have to get these from GM ? Your help is really appreciated. Looking forward to warmer weather up here.
 

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My truck will stay up once I put it up, but it doesn't spring up like it used to. I keep hitting my head on it. Are there better quality struts? Or should i just get them from the dealer?
I can't speak for the quality of these:

[ame]http://www.amazon.com/StrongArm-6412-Pontiac-Trunk-Support/dp/B001DCN21I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1333588114&sr=8-1[/ame]
 

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Pontiac lives thru us !!!
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Pontiac lives thru us !!!
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Thanks - per gmpartsdirect.com the part # for the Hard Top Convertible strut = part # 15946803 Rear compartment lid strut

$31.99 each - need two (2) - plus s&h
Received my trunk struts from http://www.gmpartshouse.com/index.php (less expensive than gmpartsdirect.com ) and installed - works like new again.

Notes:

1) use a long piece of wood or dowel to safely prop-up the trunk lid if it will not stay open (aka the reason you're replacing the struts in the first place)

2) you have to use a long necked flat head screw driver to pop-off the original strut's clips - the top is easy, the bottom difficult as its deep in the trunk well edge but can be done. I didn't have a long necked flat head screw driver but was able to get a standard length positioned to then gentle tap with a rubber mallet to pop-off the clip.

3) The new struts snap in - no need to remove their clips - again the top is easy, the bottom needs to be positioned just right and pushed against the ball joint to snap in.

Be sure to order both sides new - better to replace both...

Replacing these took about 15 minutes - if I have the right long necked flat head screw driver would've taken half the time. I'm sure a dealer service department would charge 30 minutes minimum or an hour. If unsure / unwilling to install yourself at least purchase the parts from http://www.gmpartshouse.com/index.php for way less than dealer's mark-up.
 

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As I am finding more and more specific parts for the HTC are getting discontinued.

My trunk started going down on its own this winter so I looked for the parts listed in the thread above.
GM nor any of their suppliers or web store fronts carry them any longer so I am stuck trying to find an aftermarket solution.

And I am not having any luck.

Has anyone found a cross-reference to this part (15946803) that is compatible with our HTC trunks?

:fishing:

-jon
 

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Would also be interested in the convertible struts is anyone finds a replacement. Tried a couple of the GM Parts sites that showed them in stock only to get later emails that they were a discontinued part. The current part is made by SUSPA C16-24715D, but no joy finding that either.
 

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