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Dead in the water.

310 Views 15 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  boomer
So, I have a 2007 G6, GT Convertible, with, believe it or not, 250k miles. I really bought it for the folding top. Anyway, one of the hydraulic cylinders was leaking. I rebuilt the cylinder with new o-rings. Bled the cylinder and topped off the fluid. The hardtop cycled once, went down and refuses to work again. Switch does nothing. Pump does not run. Fuses are ok. At least the ones I can find. The car does not have the original radio/information center.

From what I´ve been able to gather online, it´s possible the FTC saw an out of sequence switch activation because of the leak and shut down the pump. Assuming this is the problem, is there a way to reset the FTC without my selling a kidney to buy a Tech 2 scanner?
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When you topped up the fluid, did you disconnect & remember to reconnect the trunk cover sense switch? I know I have missed that before. Can you open the trunk (as that would indicate the down cycle completed)?

It doesn't have to be a Tech II, any scanner that will read the folding top module will help. There are articles on this site with alternatives that may be worthy of consideration.
I bought the car used, as is. The top wasn´t working then and the owner didn´t know how to fix it. The microswitch on the trunk cover was broken, and rather than try to find a new one, I just clipped it off and shorted the wires. The FTC always sees the cover as closed. At 250k, the car is a bit of a hack.

The down cycle did not complete. The roof retracted into the trunk area and the pump just stopped. The deck lid was stuck in the open position. I pulled the pin on the mounting attachment for the hydraulic cylinder for the lid. Not locked, but at least the car is useable.

I will research Tech 2 alternatives here. I do have a basic scanner, but it just looks at the engine.
It does start to sound like a sensor issue. A number of owners have noticed cracks in the wiring, especially on the hinge areas in the trunk. After that you are left checking the microswitches. Easier with a scan tool as you get to see what the folding top module is sensing, but you can measure continuity across the switch etc.

Often, if the top stops moving for a sensor issue, you can get it to go the other way. The fact that yours won't move at all suggests some sort of inconsistency in the expected sensor state, as you originally suspected. Things you could check are the various claws are at their extremes of motion. One of my bat wings got in the way and stopped the claw that holds the trunk shut by the rear windshield. That put me in the no response state you describe as the other side was completely closed. Hopefully you can find and fix it.
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Scan tool examples...


Unplug battery for a few minutes and see if that resets the brain.
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It does start to sound like a sensor issue. A number of owners have noticed cracks in the wiring, especially on the hinge areas in the trunk. After that you are left checking the microswitches. Easier with a scan tool as you get to see what the folding top module is sensing, but you can measure continuity across the switch etc.

Often, if the top stops moving for a sensor issue, you can get it to go the other way. The fact that yours won't move at all suggests some sort of inconsistency in the expected sensor state, as you originally suspected. Things you could check are the various claws are at their extremes of motion. One of my bat wings got in the way and stopped the claw that holds the trunk shut by the rear windshield. That put me in the no response state you describe as the other side was completely closed. Hopefully you can find and fix it.
Sorry to bother you. I can´t find anyone else who has the slightest interest in this particular car, or cars in general. I´ve been beating myself over the head reviewing what I was doing when this happened. Before the leaking cylinder issue, I was getting the 4 rapid chimes. I figured it was the front, drivers side, lock (terminology?) Over the years I´ve had to adjust the microswitch and the pushrods in the roof that connect to the lock(s). Wear and tear, I guess. So, while I was raising the roof, pressing the switch, I had my other hand/finger near the microswitch, watching it for the correct operation, and I´m pretty sure my finger slipped and hit the microswitch. That caused an out of sequence event that shut down the pump.

So, referring to GM Service Bulletin 07-08-67-010C, I should be able to restart the pump, and not really need a scanner because I know which microswitch it is. However, I still can´t understand from the Bulletin what is to be done to unlock the pump. I´ll keep reading it until I´m blue in the face.

Seriously, I´m a retired aircraft mechanic and a 747 is a piece of cake compared to this...
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My best guess is that you are referring to the Folding Top Front Location Pin Guide-Left (S17 and S18) inputs, which has 3 states (open, dowel and latch). If the roof is currently in the trunk, I would expect this to be reading open. Maybe the description of operation and sensor / switch schematics will be of some help.

The service guide seems to indicate the switch is just part of the latch / dowel pin receiver and doesn't offer any adjustment info (doesn't mean it cannot be done)

If I have fundamentally misunderstood what you mean or where we are discussing, perhaps a picture or two would help. Good luck with fixing it

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Shoot me now...SO, I spent $$ on the recommended scanner, the bluetooth one. Also, found a used Folding Top Controller module. As we do in aircraft, swap the module. Things just keep multiplying....Scanner shows the FTC is unable to communicate with the Body Computer. Same for both FTC modules. Cleaned the contact/connectors on the FTC and the BCM. Applied dieletric grease as recommended in Recall Bulletin 13036. Checked for voltage at the FTC board.

Hardware is the same. Software is the same. They should be able to communicate. As far as I can figure out, that leaves a wiring fault between the two modules/computers. God knows where that is.

On the bright side, the hydraulic cylinder I repaired is not leaking. I may remove it and use it as a sculpture.
Not going to send you to the glue factory just yet :) The connector views show a number of 'battery positive' and '12v reference'. You should also check you have good continuity to each ground.

There are 2 fuses in the trunk fuse box for the folding top module. There are also relays that mention the BCM (I don't know how they interact, but it might be worth swapping them over if the fuses, power and grounds check out)

The immortal line from Galaxy Quest - 'Never give up, never surrender'. Good luck with the continued repairs.

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By Grabthar's hammer, my Pontiac G6 shall be avenged!
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Well, I´m getting closer....probed the FTC circuit board AGAIN. Found a dead in the water "12 Battery Positive Voltage" RD/WH wire, circuit #240 that goes to the fuse block in the trunk. Changed fuses, put a jumper across it. Nothing. So, a bit of a hack, spliced the wire into an adjacent +12v wire. The FTC is now working and communicating with the main Body computer. So, I´m guessing, maybe the wire is broken somewhere transversing the trunk, or the fuse block is bad for that circuit. At 250k, not worth the effort.

Anyway, I can now purge the DTC´s from the Folding Top Computer. Passes all tests. But, as soon as I press the button to activate the top, a sensor mismatch code pops up and stops the pump before it even starts.

The "deck lid" (the whole trunk part) is open and slowly bleeding toward closed.
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Progress indeed. Congrats on finding that and the creative fix. Not sure what code you now have, but maybe one of these FTC DTCs will help

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Thank you, Boomer. For some unknown reason, the top is cycling now. Still getting a single error code, but nothing that stops the top from cycling. As soon as it cools off here (90 and sunny, the car´s parked outside), will jump into that.

Hopefully when this electrical episode concludes, I can get back to reinstalling the "bat wings". Like others here, the wings were, in separate incidents, eaten up when the actuation cable to them snapped during cycling the top. I had to rebuild the wing hinges. Completely ripped off. Don´t know if my repair will work...

I have a lot of free time at my age...
Well, I recon you probably have some of the best working knowledge of the convertible top :) Hope it keeps working and you get to enjoy it
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