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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This is more of an informational post for anyone wishing to replace their spark plugs on this particular engine. I'm a bit of a novice when it comes to working on cars, but I've been slowly learning how to fix and replace parts on the G6 just for my own personal satisfaction (and to save a little money too).

My car currently has 193,000 miles on it and I have never changed out the spark plugs until today. I know I was suppose to get it done around the 100k mark, but I just never got around to it. Well, my car has started to run fairly rough lately and I noticed the RPMs starting to dip a little while driving. I figured I had better do something about it.

My engine has 3 plugs in the front, and the infamous 3 in the back of the engine (near the firewall). Here are the tools that I used to complete this job in 2 1/2 hours:


GearWrench 80546 5/8-Inch x 6-Inch Swivel Spark Plug Socket



This swivel socket is totally worth the $14 I paid for it. This socket, along with the next tool I'm about to mention, made this job possible for me. It comes with a magnet to hold the spark plug in place and is handy for hand threading the spark plug into the channel before attaching a ratchet. I also had to use a Stanley 3" extension bar (3/8) to assist with the back plugs.


Lisle 51250 Spark Plug Wire Puller



I attempted to remove the rubber boots from the spark plugs last weekend by hand and they would not budge no matter how much I twisted and turned them. I almost gave up after this but I thought I would try one more time. I ordered the Lisle spark plug wire puller from Amazon and it easily exceeded my expectations. I was able to pull the front wires loose in seconds with this tool. Just put the hook opening on the rubber boot and slide it down the channel and you will feel when it makes contact with the plug. At that point, all you have to do is pull straight out and you're done. The tool cost less than $10 and made this entire job possible.

The ratchet I used was a 10" (3/8) Williams ratchet. The back plugs are accessible with this size ratchet, but you may want to go with a size that is a few inches longer for better clearance of the wiper cowl. I used a 3" extension in addition to the swivel tool I mentioned earlier.

I replaced my spark plug wires with new ones from Bosch as well as OEM iridium spark plugs from AC Delco (#41-101). I also bought small packs of anti-seize and dielectric grease.

A note on the removal of the rear wires and plugs

Removing the plugs and wires from the back of the engine is the toughest part, but the wire puller makes this a whole lot easier. You have to pretty much do everything by feel since you can't see back there. I would recommend not using gloves so you know what you are touching. I also unplugged the #1 and #4 wires from the coil pack to gain easier access.

GM actually puts 2 of those plastic spark plug wire clips on the backside of the engine. I thought this was pretty sadistic. I was able to remove one with a flathead screwdriver, but I couldn't contort my body to remove the other one. I ended up cutting the spark plug wires (I was replacing them anyway) to pull them out. Those back clips are something that I haven't seen anyone mention anywhere online. I would recommend putting at least one clip back on to keep the wires secured.

I can't say enough good things about the wire puller. I was able to work on the backside of the engine by leaning over the passenger side of the vehicle. I didn't have to lay on top of the engine to remove the plugs like I saw someone mention online.

Also, I had to remove the engine cover to pry open one of the plastic spark plug wire clips. This was simple enough. Just remove the oil cap and pull the cover up. Place the oil cap back on while you work.

Thanks for reading and hopefully this helps someone.
 

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Thanks for your post it was very informative. Have a 3.8 on my Grand Prix with 101,000 so before i do the plugs and wires i will get the wire puller for sure. Our 09 G6 has only 41,000 miles with the 3.5. The fact that you have so many miles on yours is very encouraging.
 

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Thanks also. I wish I had thought of a wire puller before I started my replacement (only 110k on mine). At least I got a nice new set of plug wires having completely butchered the existing set!
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Thanks for your post it was very informative. Have a 3.8 on my Grand Prix with 101,000 so before i do the plugs and wires i will get the wire puller for sure. Our 09 G6 has only 41,000 miles with the 3.5. The fact that you have so many miles on yours is very encouraging.
It's been a good car. I drive an hour to and from work each day (primarily highway miles) so that accounts for the high mileage. Keep an eye out for leaky front struts (recently replaced both sides with Monroe Quick-Struts) and an oil leak related to the oil filter housing gasket.

This weekend, I plan on cleaning my throttle body and MAF sensor because I have an issue where the car won't warm start by turning the key unless I give it a little gas.

Thanks also. I wish I had thought of a wire puller before I started my replacement (only 110k on mine). At least I got a nice new set of plug wires having completely butchered the existing set!
I'm just glad that I won't have to deal with them again for another 100K miles :).
 

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No Fun.

This is more of an informational post for anyone wishing to replace their spark plugs on this particular engine. I'm a bit of a novice when it comes to working on cars, but I've been slowly learning how to fix and replace parts on the G6 just for my own personal satisfaction (and to save a little money too).

My car currently has 193,000 miles on it and I have never changed out the spark plugs until today. I know I was suppose to get it done around the 100k mark, but I just never got around to it. Well, my car has started to run fairly rough lately and I noticed the RPMs starting to dip a little while driving. I figured I had better do something about it.

My engine has 3 plugs in the front, and the infamous 3 in the back of the engine (near the firewall). Here are the tools that I used to complete this job in 2 1/2 hours:



GearWrench 80546 5/8-Inch x 6-Inch Swivel Spark Plug Socket



This swivel socket is totally worth the $14 I paid for it. This socket, along with the next tool I'm about to mention, made this job possible for me. It comes with a magnet to hold the spark plug in place and is handy for hand threading the spark plug into the channel before attaching a ratchet. I also had to use a Stanley 3" extension bar (3/8) to assist with the back plugs.


Lisle 51250 Spark Plug Wire Puller



I attempted to remove the rubber boots from the spark plugs last weekend by hand and they would not budge no matter how much I twisted and turned them. I almost gave up after this but I thought I would try one more time. I ordered the Lisle spark plug wire puller from Amazon and it easily exceeded my expectations. I was able to pull the front wires loose in seconds with this tool. Just put the hook opening on the rubber boot and slide it down the channel and you will feel when it makes contact with the plug. At that point, all you have to do is pull straight out and you're done. The tool cost less than $10 and made this entire job possible.

The ratchet I used was a 10" (3/8) Williams ratchet. The back plugs are accessible with this size ratchet, but you may want to go with a size that is a few inches longer for better clearance of the wiper cowl. I used a 3" extension in addition to the swivel tool I mentioned earlier.

I replaced my spark plug wires with new ones from Bosch as well as OEM iridium spark plugs from AC Delco (#41-101). I also bought small packs of anti-seize and dielectric grease.

A note on the removal of the rear wires and plugs

Removing the plugs and wires from the back of the engine is the toughest part, but the wire puller makes this a whole lot easier. You have to pretty much do everything by feel since you can't see back there. I would recommend not using gloves so you know what you are touching. I also unplugged the #1 and #4 wires from the coil pack to gain easier access.

GM actually puts 2 of those plastic spark plug wire clips on the backside of the engine. I thought this was pretty sadistic. I was able to remove one with a flathead screwdriver, but I couldn't contort my body to remove the other one. I ended up cutting the spark plug wires (I was replacing them anyway) to pull them out. Those back clips are something that I haven't seen anyone mention anywhere online. I would recommend putting at least one clip back on to keep the wires secured.

I can't say enough good things about the wire puller. I was able to work on the backside of the engine by leaning over the passenger side of the vehicle. I didn't have to lay on top of the engine to remove the plugs like I saw someone mention online.

Also, I had to remove the engine cover to pry open one of the plastic spark plug wire clips. This was simple enough. Just remove the oil cap and pull the cover up. Place the oil cap back on while you work.

Thanks for reading and hopefully this helps someone.
After 4-1/2 hours I was able to replace the plugs and wires. After I uncliped the retainers / plug wire holders. I had a heck of time with my boots as well. So almost three hours later I came up with an idea. I used an X-Acto knife and just sliced the the boots and they came right off. After that it wasn't that bad. Remember to use dieilctric grease on the boots and plugs. I've got just over 95000 miles on the car and plan to never have to do that again. The fronts are easy just remove the air intake tube to gain easy access to the plugs. It's worth it to me to do all my own work. It costs anywhere from $350-$500 to have the job done at a shop. My total cost was $47.56. For plugs and wires from eBay
2007 3.9L GT
 
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