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Discussion Starter #1
I bought a used 2007 G6 with about 50,000 miles.

About a month in the windshield wipers ran constantly. The local dealer ( greenfield IN ) installed a new "body control" ( about $500.00 ) module under the dash. That fixed the problem.

Later the transmission was very erratic and the dealer replaced a "transmission control" module ( about $200.00 ) on the left front inner fender below the electrical box. Transmission worked fine for about 6 months then it would shift into reverse going down the road! Very scary - - - took it to the dealer in Rushville IN and paid them $1,500.00 to rebuild the transmission. Dealer stated not under warrenty as the car was originally purchased in Canada.

Car started taking off - - - very scary as you would be driving about 30 MPH and all at once you were going 80 - - - as soon as you take your foot off the accelerator it would calm down and show a code S2135 or S2101 or S0101 - - - put a new accelerator pedal ( about $100.00 ) in and the car ran fine for about another 6 months. This is very dangerous in traffic or in a parking garage!

Started taking off again so , same codes, replaced the accelerator again but no change. Now I get the above codes plus it will give a code S1516 and put the car in limp mode. I now have about 62,000 miles on the car.

I am thinking I need the main computer - - - would this be where you would go next?

Rushville dealer put it back on their computer and told me I need a bank 2 catalytic converter and a fuel filter! I can't believe a plugged filter or converter will make the car take off, I feel like if either of those were bad the car would lack power and not spin tires.

I asked the dealer about the throttle control module and was told this car does not have one. I told him I wanted to trade the car for a new Malibu and was told the dealership computer would not allow him to take this VIN in trade as the car has had to many problems over the years!

If there is a throttle position sensor please tell me the part number and where it is and I will replace it next!

In Indiana the lemon laws do not apply to used cars!

When this car is right ( for months at a time ) it is a great car - - - - but then it gets gremlins and needs a block of C4 in the tailpipe!
 

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Sounds like they've replaced everything except the ECU.

There is a Throttle Pedal Position sensor down by the throttle somewhere. I'm really unsure of the part number.

I would think that it could be the ECU. It does all the work between your pedal and the motor itself. But i'm sure the pedal sensor is by far cheaper.

Also where are you getting those codes from? It's been my experience that codes read P2135 or P2101 etc.
By looking up those codes you get

P2135: Pedal Position Switch A-B Voltage Correction Error.
P2101: Throttle Actuator Control Motor
P0101: Mass Air Flow (MAF) Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P1516: TAC Module Throttle Actuator Position Performance


So it sounds like you should try replacing the pedal Position Switch/Sensor First.
Then check the MAF sensor, make sure the wiring is fine, and the sensor itself is clean. It may need to be replaced.

Be sure to disconnect the battery, to prevent damage to sensitive components and to clear the computer of any codes.
 

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Can you define what limp mode is? Do you get a "reduced engine power" message in the DIC? Appending an S to the CEL codes make them not valid. Are those suppose to be P's?

Clear all the codes and see what new ones pop up. If your gut tells you that the Rushville dealership doesn't know what they are doing, then find someone else.

I would pull the throttle body off, clean it, check the wiring and reinstall. Clear the codes and see if it comes back. If it does, then replace that.

Other people with similar problems (but not the accelerator problem):
http://www.g6ownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11251
http://www.g6ownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4315
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm sorry I called it "limp mode" as the dash reads "reduced engine power"

I re read the post and yes the codes should have had a P instead of an S

Both the dealers at Greenfield and Rushville ( Greenfield sent me to Rushville as they thought the mechanic there was more experienced in these problems ) have replaced the throttle as the sensor is built into it. First time it was replaced car was great for about 6 months, second time it did nothing to change the problem.

I went so far as to buy my own code reader so that I could clear codes on the road - - - worked for several months as the car would mess up every few weeks, then every few days, now about every ¼ th mile. It is coding out so often now you cannot go anywhere!

What is the procedure for cleaning the throttle body? It can’t hurt !
 

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I'm sorry I called it "limp mode" as the dash reads "reduced engine power"

I re read the post and yes the codes should have had a P instead of an S

Both the dealers at Greenfield and Rushville ( Greenfield sent me to Rushville as they thought the mechanic there was more experienced in these problems ) have replaced the throttle as the sensor is built into it. First time it was replaced car was great for about 6 months, second time it did nothing to change the problem.

I went so far as to buy my own code reader so that I could clear codes on the road - - - worked for several months as the car would mess up every few weeks, then every few days, now about every ¼ th mile. It is coding out so often now you cannot go anywhere!

What is the procedure for cleaning the throttle body? It can’t hurt !
I'm totally confused. What exact part did they replace twice? The throttle body assy (on top of the engine) or the accelerator pedal position sensor (on top of the accelerator pedal) or what?

So you are currently getting all four codes popping NOW?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
They replaced the entire throttle petal ( three times all together one from a junk yard and 2 new ones ) - - - they said the sensor is made into it and not available seperately.
 

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They replaced the entire throttle petal ( three times all together one from a junk yard and 2 new ones ) - - - they said the sensor is made into it and not available seperately.
Get the throttle body replaced then, not the pedal.

 

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They replaced the entire throttle petal ( three times all together one from a junk yard and 2 new ones ) - - - they said the sensor is made into it and not available seperately.
OK, so the APP (accelerator pedal position) sensor has been replaced 3 times. Yet the codes indicate a problem with the TAC system (part of the throttle body) & the MAF sensor. So the question is: why are those horse's patutes replacing the accelerator pedal position sensor? Tell me those aren't really dealer's mechanics doing that.

You need to replace the throttle body & clean your MAF sensor. Then clear all codes & see if any reappear.

IIRC, RockAuto sells them for around $165. There are many online sources. The dealer price will be much more but if you can't wait, you can't wait. For a dealer to install one I'm sure is in the $400+ neighborhood.

The dealer you are taking it to sounds very dishonest. For one thing, there is no separately replaceable fuel filter. It is integral to the fuel pump which requires dropping the fuel tank. You don't replace the filter you replace the pump. For another, catalytic converter/s have an 8 year/80K mile warranty & your dealer knows that very well. For yet another, why did they replace the accelerator pedal position sensor if those were the popped codes? And the reason they gave you for not honoring the powertrain warranty on the tranny rebuild just makes my blood boil. The Canadian powertrain warranty is the same as in the US. I'd urge you to take that up with GM customer service directly. Unless there were other codes you did not mention, my advice is to avoid that dealer entirely as they sound like crooks to me.

The how-to is in the Chiltons for G6. It is not hard to replace.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have lost all faith in both dealers - - - - that is why it is sitting in the garage - - - I will get some time next week and I'll replace the throttle body myself, clear codes and see what happens after that.

Will I have any surprises or is it fairly stright forward?

The dealers have been doing this to my daughter and I traded cars with her untill I get it fixed.
 

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The dealers have been doing this to my daughter and I traded cars with her untill I get it fixed.
Sorry if this is sexist, but dealerships will take advantage of and belittle females because typically females have less knowledge about cars than guys. This is especially the case if she is young and naive.
 

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I have lost all faith in both dealers - - - - that is why it is sitting in the garage - - - I will get some time next week and I'll replace the throttle body myself, clear codes and see what happens after that.

Will I have any surprises or is it fairly stright forward?

The dealers have been doing this to my daughter and I traded cars with her untill I get it fixed.
Pickup a new gasket if your new TB does not come with one. The Chiltons book will make the job even easier. It's pretty simple though.
 

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Pickup a new gasket if your new TB does not come with one. The Chiltons book will make the job even easier. It's pretty simple though.
Isn't the gasket just your typical O-ring? If so, you could just pick one up at Lowes or something.
 

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Also if you own a Ca PZEV vehicle registered in a Ca emission state, there are 14 of them.
The throttle body and a lot of other emission parts are warrantied for 15 years or 150K miles, like my 09 G6.
 

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As slls points out, it's important to know your vehicle warranty details as it can save you a lot of money. I wouldn't trust any dealer to know the details. Especially with the complex emissions warranty. You can download owner's manuals & warranty booklets at the GM owner's center:

http://www.gm.com/gmownercenter/gm/

More on the GM warranty:

Frequently Asked Questions: Warranty

Q: What is the 100,000 mile/5-year Powertrain warranty?
A: All GM cars and light duty trucks are covered. The Powertrain Limited Warranty is 100,000 miles or 5 years (whichever comes first, see dealer for details). It is fully transferable and there are no fees and no deductibles. In addition, the Roadside Assistance and Courtesy Transportation programs are also 100,000 miles or 5 years (whichever comes first). For more details, please visit your dealer.
Q: How is the bumper-to-bumper warranty affected by this 100,000-mile/5-year warranty?
A: The Bumper-to-Bumper New Vehicle Limited Warranty on new GM cars and light-duty trucks remains in effect for 3 years or 36,000 miles (whichever comes first, see dealer for details) on Chevrolet and GMC vehicles; and 4 years or 50,000 miles (whichever comes first, see dealer for details) on Buick and Cadillac vehicles. The powertrain limited warranty supplements the bumper to bumper warranty and, in general, continues to cover the engine, transmission, transfer case and axle assemblies on light duty vehicles up to the 100,000 miles or 5 years (whichever comes first, see dealer for details) from the vehicle's in-service date. For more details, please visit your dealer.
Q: What does the bumper-to-bumper warranty cover?
A: The Bumper-to-Bumper Limited Warranty covers most GM vehicles registered in the U.S. and Canada from the date the vehicle is first delivered until it reaches 3 years or 36,000 miles (whichever occurs first, see dealer for details) on Chevrolet and GMC vehicles; and 4 years or 50,000 miles (whichever occurs first, see dealer for details) on Buick and Cadillac vehicles. It covers the vehicle from bumper to bumper on any vehicle defect related to materials or workmanship. Original tires are covered but prorated after 12,000 miles during the terms of the Bumper to Bumper Limited Warranty. For further details, look in the Owner's Manual under "What Is Covered" and "What Is Not Covered."
Q: Is my vehicle covered from rust, too?
A: GM vehicles are designed and built to resist corrosion. All body and sheet metal components are warranted against rust-through corrosion for a minimum of 6 years/100,000 miles (whichever comes first). Application of additional rust-inhibiting materials is not required under the corrosion coverage and none is recommended. See your GM dealer for terms of this limited warranty.
Q: Does GM offer or endorse any service contracts for new or used vehicles?
A: Yes, the GM Protection Plan (GMPP) vehicle service and maintenance contracts are the only products endorsed by GM and are available through most GM dealers. To learn more about the different plans available, please visit www.gmprotectionplan.com/ourproducts.html.
Q: What is Roadside Assistance?
A: GM has a Roadside Assistance program to aid owners during an emergency and with other services. It is a complimentary service that comes with each new GM vehicle. Services provided include:

· 24-hour, 7-days-a-week toll-free 800 phone assistance
· Towing to the closest GM divisional dealer (from a legal roadway)
· Flat tire change (using vehicle's spare or tire inflator kit)
· Battery jump-start
· Vehicle unlock service (costs for a new key and the labor to create not covered)
· Trip interruption assistance (coverage varies by brand)
· Trip routing (coverage varies by brand)
· Emergency fuel delivery (up to $5.00 worth)

Q: How do I contact Roadside Assistance?
A: If your GM vehicle is equipped with an active OnStar subscription, the customer can simply press the blue button for roadside service. If it is not equipped with OnStar, please contact the appropriate number below to initiate roadside assistance for your vehicle:

· Chevrolet 800-243-8872
· Buick 800-252-1112
· GMC 800-462-8782
· Cadillac 800-224-1400

Q: How long is my vehicle covered by Roadside Assistance?
A: Roadside Assistance is included for 100,000 miles/5 years on 2007 and newer GM models.
Q: Are there any costs to me for using Roadside Assistance?
A: There is generally no charge for any of the services listed under "What is Roadside Assistance?" while the vehicle is covered by the complimentary Roadside Assistance service. However, additional charges may be incurred for some services, including towing the vehicle beyond the closest GM dealer; for non-warranty parts and labor; or for lost key replacements. For details and additional information, please refer to Section 7 of the Owner's Manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I finally got a little time and replaced the throttle body - - - took about 20 minutes and the instructions said to start the car and allow to idle for 3 minutes and shut off then repeat, did so and have put about 100 miles on it and it does not run away!

The throttle body was $160.00 at Auto Zone - - - the dealer wanted $388.00parts plus $300.00 labor, what a rip off!

I feel the dealers have just been milking my daughter and as such we will not deal with them any more!

I will drive this for about a week before I allow my daughter to take again.

When the Dealer told me the car could not take off on it's own like that I offered to allow his wife to drive it for a week - - - he refused!

After finding this site I guess this is a common problem - - - why is GM being allowed to not address the safety issue?
 

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You are the first one with runaway acceleration that I can recall. I'm actually very surprised that it happened since there is sensor redundancy & automatic engine power down by the ecm that is supposed to prevent it.
 

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Glad to hear its working right! I would talk to GM Customer Service directly about this issue. Maybe you can get reimbursed for the parts you purchased. It is a very odd problem and It may benefit GM to know about it. It's the same technology and virtually all GM cars...
 

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When the Service manager told me their computer said it could not run away I ask him to have his wife drive it for a week - - - he refused, I then ask him to drive it himself for a week and again he refused.

They just kept telling me there was nothing wrong with the car.

When I removed the old throttle body it seemed to have a coating of black tar in it. I think the butterfly was sticking and when it would break loose it would open completely untill you removed your foot and then it would go to idle and stick again.

My daughter has the oil changed every time the dash tells her to and the car uses no oil between changes. I removed the oil fill cap while idleing and I get no blow by. I'm not sure where this film ( about 1/16" thick ) came from.

Now that I have been in the engine I could have taken the intake hose off with one clamp and the throttle body is exposed, I could have used carberator cleaner and might have fixed the problem!

No codes showing up so I'm taking about a 300 mile trip today and have a 600 mile trip planed for Sat. if still no problems I'll let my daughter have it back.

I'm glad I got on this forum as the next thing the dealer was going to try was to replace the main computer ( they "flashed" it once already ) and at this point I doubt it would have changed anything.
 
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