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I finally found what was wrong! I am amazed that there have been so many people with this exact problem but there has been no post or other information on how it was resolved. I had to do it the hard way.
so what was wrong??:confused:


i had a similar problem when the clip for the maf sensor connector was broken and making intermittent contact with the sensor...car would shut off when i take off then start right up when the car was stationary...i think i had a message on the dic too...zip tied it tight and never had the problem again...
 

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I finally found what was wrong! I am amazed that there have been so many people with this exact problem but there has been no post or other information on how it was resolved. I had to do it the hard way.
So please share with us what you found. I am going a bit nuts with this too. I cant afford my next car yet so I need to keep this 2006 G6 GT going for another couple of years.
 

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I have a 2008 G6 and it has 64,000 miles on it the check engine light is on and the TC light is on as well the I had the check engine light checked and it said misfire in cylinder 3. I have had all kinds of fuel injection cleaning done its starting to shake and sounds like its going to shut off not all the time but every now and again not only that it takes forever to get speed. HELP
 

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well if it deals with the engine losing power, there must be something wrong with the compression or something to do with one of the four strokes. i mean you guys know more than me, and so do mechanics and dealerships, but from as much as i know about how engines work (which is truly just basics) loss of engine power is most of the time from a loss of compression, or something off with the fuel air mixture in the cylinder. you could have something clogging the intake on your car, so not enough air is getting to your engine, your car might be supplying to much fuel to the mixture which means combustion wont occur properly. maybe something got in your fuel tank (highly unlikely) maybe someone put water in your fuel tank causing the gas not to burn. your car is old so your pistons might be worn causing a leak of the fuel air mixture, there may be a hole in the cylinder or their may be a hole in your intake. the hole in the cylinder could occur at the top of the cylinder where it attaches to the spark plugs and is sealed by a gasket, the gasket may be worn or broken down causing a hole or leak. Your spark plug may be worn, or your ignition timing may be off. the bearings in the crankshaft may be worn out not allowing it to turn.

but thats all i know and most probably wont apply but i hope i can help good luck with your car, i hope you figure it out.
 

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MonsterG6
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Pontiacs are the biggest piece of [email protected]# vehicles on the road! No wonder they went out of business!!! I cannot wait to get rid of my G6 but i cant keep it on the road long enough to sell it. Its always one thing after another.... from brakes, rotors, starters, batteries, connectors, radio, engine everything has had to be replaced so in a sense ive basically bought almost 2 cars!n Never in my life will i own another car made by General Motors and they can count on that!

lol...maybe you should get into the rice scene...
 

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I have a 2008 G6 and it has 64,000 miles on it the check engine light is on and the TC light is on as well the I had the check engine light checked and it said misfire in cylinder 3. I have had all kinds of fuel injection cleaning done its starting to shake and sounds like its going to shut off not all the time but every now and again not only that it takes forever to get speed. HELP
I agree with another poster here. You have to start on the easiest ones first. Start with wires and plugs. Then look at the injector itself. If that isnt it then move on to the compression. Hopefully your compression is good. Lastly then look at the cam and valves.

To the knucklehead who think these G6's are pieces of crap. Try my car I have a 2006 with 150,000 miles on it. I am on my third set of tires (common maintenance). I did have trouble with replacement brakes but that was chinese junk sold at Autozone. I had one major repair and it turned out to be a bad wire that burned out the fuel pump. Outside of that this car is the best one I have own since my 74 toyota cylica.
 

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well if it deals with the engine losing power, there must be something wrong with the compression or something to do with one of the four strokes. i mean you guys know more than me, and so do mechanics and dealerships, but from as much as i know about how engines work (which is truly just basics) loss of engine power is most of the time from a loss of compression, or something off with the fuel air mixture in the cylinder. you could have something clogging the intake on your car, so not enough air is getting to your engine, your car might be supplying to much fuel to the mixture which means combustion wont occur properly. maybe something got in your fuel tank (highly unlikely) maybe someone put water in your fuel tank causing the gas not to burn. your car is old so your pistons might be worn causing a leak of the fuel air mixture, there may be a hole in the cylinder or their may be a hole in your intake. the hole in the cylinder could occur at the top of the cylinder where it attaches to the spark plugs and is sealed by a gasket, the gasket may be worn or broken down causing a hole or leak. Your spark plug may be worn, or your ignition timing may be off. the bearings in the crankshaft may be worn out not allowing it to turn.

but thats all i know and most probably wont apply but i hope i can help good luck with your car, i hope you figure it out.
the reduced engine power is not a result of something wrong causing it to lose power it is the computer NOT LETTING the engine make enough power to do permanant damage so they say, like if you bust your radiator and all the coolant pours out the computer will "reduce engine power" so that you can still drive it a little ways and supposably not really hurt the engine in doing so like you would definately do if the engine was still "allowed" to make full power..........
 

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I checked the wires and plugs and had a tune up done. I looked at the injector and had it replaced as well the check engine light went off for a day then came back on.
 

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I checked the wires and plugs and had a tune up done. I looked at the injector and had it replaced as well the check engine light went off for a day then came back on.
If you have an autozone or advanced autoparts or some other parts store go there and have them put the code checker on it. It will give you a reason since your light is on. In the case of this post this information comes up on the display of the radio saying engine power is being reduced. Then engine disabled. It does not show up again in a code checker. Maybe the dealer has one that reads history but I have a feeling not. In your case though your check engine light could be many things from a loose gas cap to low oil pressure. Have it checked.
 

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Pontiacs are the biggest piece of [email protected]# vehicles on the road! No wonder they went out of business!!! I cannot wait to get rid of my G6 but i cant keep it on the road long engines for sale enough to sell it. Its always one thing after another.... from brakes, rotors, starters, batteries, connectors, radio, engine everything has had to be replaced so in a sense ive basically bought almost 2 cars!n Never in my life will i own another car made by General Motors and they can count on that!
Hi. If you want to get rid of that G6. Let me know. I would be interested for it. :D
 

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I'm now having the same thing happening to my 2006. Very intermittent and under different driving conditions. Your driving along when all of a sudden the engine light comes on, the message displays "ENG PWR REDUCED" and is followed very quickly by a message "ENGINE DISABLED". After you coast to a stop, shut everything off and wait about a minute, you can start it back up and it drives like normal? While disabled you can not even engage the starter. The engine light clears immediately. No codes are even stored in history. I pulled the inside interior cover on the left side and did not find any signs of water. The car does have a sunroof. Air cleaner and intake look clear. I've seen a few posts now with this problem but no indication of anyone finding a smoking gun.

Mark
Indiana, PA
Okay I dont know if you have resolved your problem. I finally brought my G6 to the dealer after a day when the car did this 6 times even on the highway at 80 miles an hour. What they found was the computer (ECM) lost communications with a number of items. They checked the wiring and found that they were all good. It turns out that my problem ended up being that ECM. A $400 item and 5 hours of checking wires I spent 800 total. It is still a deal for me. This dealer has treated me well and I plan on buying my next car from them though it wont be a Pontiac since they dont make them anymore. So to all of you out there have the dealer look at the ECM and good luck

Bob
 

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This just happened to me. Luckily I was near my mechanic and he just reset the code and it was okay after that (hoping it stays ok, but not holding my breath.) My BIGGEST concern is: What if this were to happen while driving on the highway? I had a hard time pulling 30-35 mph on the road let alone if I were on a 65 mph highway!
 

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Troy
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This happened to me a couple times when I had the crappy jet vforce chip in. I was doing 80 and pulled over no problem. I since got rid of that damn thing and have had no problems since.

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using AutoGuide.Com Free App
 

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This just happened to me. Luckily I was near my mechanic and he just reset the code and it was okay after that (hoping it stays ok, but not holding my breath.) My BIGGEST concern is: What if this were to happen while driving on the highway? I had a hard time pulling 30-35 mph on the road let alone if I were on a 65 mph highway!
Rest assured you haven't seen the last of that issue. The usual fix is to replace the throttle body assy but I'd need the code.
 

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This just happened to me. Luckily I was near my mechanic and he just reset the code and it was okay after that (hoping it stays ok, but not holding my breath.) My BIGGEST concern is: What if this were to happen while driving on the highway? I had a hard time pulling 30-35 mph on the road let alone if I were on a 65 mph highway!
I can tell you with assurity you will be able to safely pull over. Let me tell you though your problem will return. Resetting the code doesn't end it. What is happening is the end of the life of that computer. I am guessing you have an 06 or an 07. You have a few miles on her but she is otherwise in great shape. You take care of her with regular maintenance and she still drives beautifully.

The next time it happens to you do yourself a favor get the computer replaced. I went about 8 months with that situation happening. It happened more and more towards the end. The first time it happened it was a month later. Basically the history of the events will record in the memory of the computer as dropped or lost comms with various items in your car. My mechanic (the dealer) took a couple of hours to varify that the wiring was not faulty and the sensors and various plugs were good. Once he was sure there was only those lost codes the computer was replace. That my friend was replace in 2010 more than two years ago. 50,000 miles later the car has not had the issue again.

That problem was what brought me to this forum. I tried to diagnose that problem myself. Lots of help here but none of them hit on the root cause.
 

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Mudflap
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This same issued occurred on my '05 G6. Vehicle would die out 4 or 5 times at a time. I let it go and no problems for about 2 weeks. Then it happened again. Read this thread, took it to a Goodyear Service Center near my house and they didn't want to touch it fearing it could be something else and they don't put a whole lot of trust in blogs. This would tarnish their work ethic. I saw their point.

Then took it to a Chevy service/dealer, told them of this blog, and paid to have it completed. It has been 1 week and no surprises (my fingers are crossed!).

Thank you RLanois for being the guinea pig and posting your experience. I'm hoping this failed ECM was the problem. Your post saved me a lot of time, heartache and mis-diagnoses.
 

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ECM too hot

When troubleshooting my nieces 2008 Pontiac G6, I found some of the same problems as mentioned in previous posts where the car would die with the "ENG PWR REDUCED", "ENGINE DISABLED", "SERVICE TRACTION", and "TRACTION OFF" messages on the radio display. Once it died, the car would not even turn over until it sat for a few minutes. The only trouble code was the P0601 "Internal Control Module Memory Check Sum Malfunction".

I suspected that the ECM (located in front of the battery) was overheating. I let the car idle until it died. Ambient air temperature was about 85 degrees (F). I then used an infrared laser thermometer to measure the top edge of the ECM and it was about 125 degrees (F). Each of the three times I performed this procedure the car died after about 20 minutes and the ECM temp was ~ 125 on the top edge (hotter in other places on ECM). The car would not restart until the top edge of the ECM had dropped to ~ 100 degrees (F). I then removed the ECM from its bracket and used my heat gun to accelerate the temp of the ECM to the critical temp faster, and the car died after 5-10 minutes with the ECM temp again at around 125. Then with the ECM still out if its bracket, I pointed a 12" desk fan at the ECM to provide additional cooling. With the desk fan, the G6 would idle for over an hour at which point I would turn the car off. The car did not die with the desk fan cooling the ECM and the ECM temp at the top edge remained at ~ 85 degrees (F). This experiment told me that the ECM temp was the critical item and that it was triggering when the car died. I ordered a replacement ECM (used and flashed with VIN I provided) from Flashmasters (would recommend) on EBAY. The replacement ECM came with the necessary procedures to reprogram the key and reset error codes. The ECM I was working on is SERV # 12612384. According to the gmpartsdirect web site this ECM is used in many GM cars and trucks; cadillacs, corvettes, chevy, GMC, saturn, etc.

With the replacement ECM, yesterday I ran the car for about 40 minutes (until the weather front came through) and the car did not die. The top edge of the ECM reached about 135 degrees (F) without failing. The ambient temp yesterday afternoon was about 80 degrees. Today I have ran the car for over an hour without issue, but the top edge of the ECM has reached only ~108 degrees with an ambient temp of 60 degrees.

So I suspect that some internal failure of the ECM has caused the fail point to drop to a temperature that should be within the normal operating range of the ECM. Also this issue depends on weather and driving habits. If there is enough air exchange in the engine compartment to cool the ECM then the issue won't happen.
 

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Resolved! I found the smoking Gun!

I finally found what was wrong! I am amazed that there have been so many people with this exact problem but there has been no post or other information on how it was resolved. I had to do it the hard way.
So what was the smoking gun?!?!
 
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