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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So after looking for a guide on how to do this for 2 weeks, I finally just gave up and decided to do it with trial and error. My friend and I (who have installed before) just went with the flow when we were installing this, and actually got it to work with our first try.

So here is the guide on how to do it a G6.

Step 1: Running the Power Cable.

After looking through many posts about this, we came to the decision of running it through the grommet of the Hood Release cable. But after trying this, we decided the easier way would be just drilling a hole through the firewall.

**BEFORE DOING ANYTHING WITH ANY WIRES, I SUGGEST YOU UNHOOK BOTH OF YOUR BATTERY CABLES**

You will have to take out the plastic piece directly below your steering wheel. There are some bolts you must take out, and then plastic clips. Once you get this out, locate the hood release cable coming from your hood release lever. It should be a black cable running almost in the middle of your firewall. You will see what looks like a gray seal (the grommet.) You have the choice of cutting an X in it and running the power cable for your amp through here (depending on the gauge of it, ours was 8 gauge, so we went with drilling a hole in the firewall.)

If you choose to drill the hole, I suggest you do this UNDER the current whole the hood release cable is running. We attempted to drill above it, but our drill was getting caught on something, and were unable to drill through it. Drilling below it still took awhile, but it eventually went through.

After you get this drilled, when you put your cable through, it will come out behind and below the brake line in the front of your car. If you take a flash light, and look directly below the break line, you will see the hood release cable, and below that should be your now ran power cable. We fished it up and around the brake lines so it was not near anything. After that, hook it up to your positive end of your battery (NOTE, we left this unhooked until we had EVERYTHING hooked up so there were no exposed wires.)

Now that you ran one end of the cable, the next is to get that cable to your trunk. What we did was run it down where your stereo cables are on the driver side. You can remove the door molding (or "foot step") by just simply pulling up on it. It has the same plastic clips as what the panels under your steering wheel do. We ran the power cable through the black box that runs along side your passenger side bottom. This runs directly to your back seat, and even farther. We stopped once we got the back seat, and ran it through a hole that leads to your trunk (so that it does not interfere with the seats.) If you pull your back seats down, and look through the trunk, you can see this opening to the left of where your seats usually are. You now have your power cable ran and are ready to get going! The hardest part is now over.

(Sorry I don't have any pictures for this part, as it was hard enough to put the door molding back on, I am afraid to take it back off.)

Step 2: Hooking up your Output Converter

We used the Scosche FAI-3 converter (http://www.walmart.com/ip/Scosche-Ford-JBL-and-GM-Bose-Speaker-Level-Converter-FAI-3/1863065)

This is the part we were lost on. We have never used a converter before, so we just used common sense and decided to try it to see if it would work (and it actually did.)

What we did here was splice in the rear speakers, but instead of using the cables running to the speaker, we used the cables at the factory amp (with the Monsoon system.)



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This factory amp is located to the right of your trunk, behind the carpet that is held on with the nets. In the picture above, you can see my Monsoon amp with the output converter attached to it. Due to the last owner of my car, I was unable to get the plug in out of the amp because the clip on it was broke. We had to splice into the wires as it was, so we were unable to use crimping. But you can easily crimp the wires together instead of using electrical tape.

What you are looking to splice into is the farthest left plug in. You should have 9 wires in the plug in, but you only need to splice into 4 of them.

Here is the wiring diagram for our car:


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What we need are the following:
Left Rear + Input: Brown/White (Pin 29)
Left Rear - Input: Brown (Pin 30)
Right Rear - Input: Tan (Pin 37)
Right Rear + Input: Dark Blue (Pin 38)


What we did was take 4 wires, put them in the A5, A6, A7, A8 sockets on the Output Converter, and put them into the corresponding cables from the amp (can be found in the book that comes with the Output converter.)

Here is where they go:
A5 --------------- Left Rear + Input (Brown/White)
A6 --------------- Left Rear - Input (Brown)
A7 --------------- Right Rear - Input (Tan)
A8 --------------- Right Rear + Input (Dark Blue)

Once you have these hooked up, make sure to set the Output Converter to "Line Out."

While we are here, we will go ahead and setup the Remote wire. There have been alot of people who say they run it to the fuse box to something that only turns on when the key turns. But we actually spliced into the factory amp cable, and it works perfectly.

We thought, why not, it should work in theory. Well it worked for us. So you can take your remote wire and splice it into the Pink Wire on the amp (Pin 27.) Then run that to your amp.

Step 3: Setting Everything Else Up

You now have the hard parts over, and the rest should be easy as it is all just standard installation from now.

The only thing really left to do (other than plugging it all together) is to find a ground. Where I put mine was directly behind the driver side rear seat. There is a piece of metal at the top of the trunk. We drilled a hole in the metal plate and put a steel screw there for our ground.

You are now ready to hook everything together and get that noise a poppin! Here is some pics of my setup:



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Not sure why this picture is upside down, apparently my iPhone likes to take pictures upside down.



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Amp and Cap located directly behind my seats. They haven't been secured yet since we wanted to make sure everything worked first. Not to mention it took us 10 hours to do all this : P

My Setup:
(2) 15" Kicker CVRs (Single Boxes, couldn't get a dual box to fit for the life of us.)
1600W Power Acoustik Amp
SPL Digital Cap

Hopefully this helps anyone that is as lost as we were! We just went with the flow and got it to work the first try.

If I left anything out, please let me know. Or if you have any comments or suggestions let me know!

Thanks!

Lando
 

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looks good. what guage wire are you running? i managed to get 4awg wire through the hood release grommet in about half an hour. deffinately was a pain though.

i would only suggest 2 things to people from my personal experience. i dont know if you've had these issues or not. But i've found with the ground wire that just screwing it in somewhere doesnt work. The subs end up shaking the screw and i get a loose connection. that being said a bolt somewhere in the car, such as the bolt that the seat belts are on under the rear seat is a much better choice just because you can tighten the nut down and it wont come loose.

My other suggestion is to lose the cap, they just put strain on the charging system and all in all dont do any good for your car, if you are using it because your finding the lights are dimming with low notes or something like that, its time to upgrade to a higher output alternator.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
looks good. what guage wire are you running? i managed to get 4awg wire through the hood release grommet in about half an hour. deffinately was a pain though.

i would only suggest 2 things to people from my personal experience. i dont know if you've had these issues or not. But i've found with the ground wire that just screwing it in somewhere doesnt work. The subs end up shaking the screw and i get a loose connection. that being said a bolt somewhere in the car, such as the bolt that the seat belts are on under the rear seat is a much better choice just because you can tighten the nut down and it wont come loose.

My other suggestion is to lose the cap, they just put strain on the charging system and all in all dont do any good for your car, if you are using it because your finding the lights are dimming with low notes or something like that, its time to upgrade to a higher output alternator.
We have the ground pretty much secure in there with the steel screw and a bolt. So thats not really an issue.

I used the cap because it came with the whole setup that I got from my friend. So I haven't really noticed any issues yet with or without it. We have an 8 gauge power wire running for the amp.
 

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With 8awg wire you most likely arent going to notice any issues as you arent going to be able to suck a ton of power through it. if you were running 4-0awg wire you would probably notice it without the cap. the cap will fix he problem, but its not a good thing for your charging system.
 

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With 8awg wire you most likely arent going to notice any issues as you arent going to be able to suck a ton of power through it. if you were running 4-0awg wire you would probably notice it without the cap. the cap will fix he problem, but its not a good thing for your charging system.
It's actually quite the opposite, with lighter gauge wire you will have tremendous voltage drops through the wire at higher output power levels, which will cause the amp to try to draw even more current to keep the same power output level. The capacitor is there to make up for having smaller gauge wire. You wouldn't need the cap if you have the right wire gauge.

~ MattInSoCal
 

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I got rockford p1 2-12" subs and box it came onstalled in and it was tricky to get it in there seeing as it wasn't like a reg box...was a lil bigger after I took everything outta my truck including spare....but then finally got it in there and put spare and everything back...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I got rockford p1 2-12" subs and box it came onstalled in and it was tricky to get it in there seeing as it wasn't like a reg box...was a lil bigger after I took everything outta my truck including spare....but then finally got it in there and put spare and everything back...
I took out everything in my trunk, Trim and carpet included, and still couldnt get the dual 15" box in. It was about an 1" away from fitting, so I just went and bout 2- single 15" boxes, and they fit perfectly.
 

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05 G6
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Yea I was like an inch away from fitting in in there but a lil push and shove..and got it in there..lol...now I know if some1 trys to take it they wnt be able to get it out...I also cut the spare compartment cover like 16" from front and putting hinges on it so I can open and get spare out so I'm good...
 

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Hi, great walk through by the way.
I have a question. Did you attach the converter to the amp input (from the deck) or the output (to the speakers)? My converter says it handles 80 amps. I don't know what the output after the Monsoon amp is. I would rather crimp it at the speakers, but, if the stock amp puts out over 80amps then obviously I would have to pull-up the carpet and put it before it hits the amp.
Thanks!
Also, I am taking pictures of my install to help other people out with this issue.
 

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hey so i went through the whole set up and everything worked really well, i have an 1100w 12" and 1000w amp. seem to have trouble with the acoustics of the car though. when the seats are down everything sounds great but as soon as they are up and locked i almost cant hear anything. Anyone else have this issue?
 

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Never had that issue. Sounds like something might not be set right. I guarantee if you are actually pushing 1000W you will definitely hear it. What make/model are the amp and sub?
 

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Shit! yes you would be hearing 1000 watts i think you need to look at what the rms is for both the sub and the amp...
 

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The entire system is sony xplode. And i was fiddling around with it and found that if unplug the right channel rca everything works fine. Not sure what i did wrong but at least its working Haha
 
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