So after looking for a guide on how to do this for 2 weeks, I finally just gave up and decided to do it with trial and error. My friend and I (who have installed before) just went with the flow when we were installing this, and actually got it to work with our first try.
So here is the guide on how to do it a G6.
Step 1: Running the Power Cable.
After looking through many posts about this, we came to the decision of running it through the grommet of the Hood Release cable. But after trying this, we decided the easier way would be just drilling a hole through the firewall.
**BEFORE DOING ANYTHING WITH ANY WIRES, I SUGGEST YOU UNHOOK BOTH OF YOUR BATTERY CABLES**
You will have to take out the plastic piece directly below your steering wheel. There are some bolts you must take out, and then plastic clips. Once you get this out, locate the hood release cable coming from your hood release lever. It should be a black cable running almost in the middle of your firewall. You will see what looks like a gray seal (the grommet.) You have the choice of cutting an X in it and running the power cable for your amp through here (depending on the gauge of it, ours was 8 gauge, so we went with drilling a hole in the firewall.)
If you choose to drill the hole, I suggest you do this UNDER the current whole the hood release cable is running. We attempted to drill above it, but our drill was getting caught on something, and were unable to drill through it. Drilling below it still took awhile, but it eventually went through.
After you get this drilled, when you put your cable through, it will come out behind and below the brake line in the front of your car. If you take a flash light, and look directly below the break line, you will see the hood release cable, and below that should be your now ran power cable. We fished it up and around the brake lines so it was not near anything. After that, hook it up to your positive end of your battery (NOTE, we left this unhooked until we had EVERYTHING hooked up so there were no exposed wires.)
Now that you ran one end of the cable, the next is to get that cable to your trunk. What we did was run it down where your stereo cables are on the driver side. You can remove the door molding (or "foot step") by just simply pulling up on it. It has the same plastic clips as what the panels under your steering wheel do. We ran the power cable through the black box that runs along side your passenger side bottom. This runs directly to your back seat, and even farther. We stopped once we got the back seat, and ran it through a hole that leads to your trunk (so that it does not interfere with the seats.) If you pull your back seats down, and look through the trunk, you can see this opening to the left of where your seats usually are. You now have your power cable ran and are ready to get going! The hardest part is now over.
(Sorry I don't have any pictures for this part, as it was hard enough to put the door molding back on, I am afraid to take it back off.)
Step 2: Hooking up your Output Converter
We used the Scosche FAI-3 converter (
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Scosche-Ford-JBL-and-GM-Bose-Speaker-Level-Converter-FAI-3/1863065)
This is the part we were lost on. We have never used a converter before, so we just used common sense and decided to try it to see if it would work (and it actually did.)
What we did here was splice in the rear speakers, but instead of using the cables running to the speaker, we used the cables at the factory amp (with the Monsoon system.)
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This factory amp is located to the right of your trunk, behind the carpet that is held on with the nets. In the picture above, you can see my Monsoon amp with the output converter attached to it. Due to the last owner of my car, I was unable to get the plug in out of the amp because the clip on it was broke. We had to splice into the wires as it was, so we were unable to use crimping. But you can easily crimp the wires together instead of using electrical tape.
What you are looking to splice into is the farthest left plug in. You should have 9 wires in the plug in, but you only need to splice into 4 of them.
Here is the wiring diagram for our car:
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What we need are the following:
Left Rear + Input: Brown/White (Pin 29)
Left Rear - Input: Brown (Pin 30)
Right Rear - Input: Tan (Pin 37)
Right Rear + Input: Dark Blue (Pin 38)
What we did was take 4 wires, put them in the A5, A6, A7, A8 sockets on the Output Converter, and put them into the corresponding cables from the amp (can be found in the book that comes with the Output converter.)
Here is where they go:
A5 --------------- Left Rear + Input (Brown/White)
A6 --------------- Left Rear - Input (Brown)
A7 --------------- Right Rear - Input (Tan)
A8 --------------- Right Rear + Input (Dark Blue)
Once you have these hooked up, make sure to set the Output Converter to "Line Out."
While we are here, we will go ahead and setup the Remote wire. There have been alot of people who say they run it to the fuse box to something that only turns on when the key turns. But we actually spliced into the factory amp cable, and it works perfectly.
We thought, why not, it should work in theory. Well it worked for us. So you can take your remote wire and splice it into the Pink Wire on the amp (Pin 27.) Then run that to your amp.
Step 3: Setting Everything Else Up
You now have the hard parts over, and the rest should be easy as it is all just standard installation from now.
The only thing really left to do (other than plugging it all together) is to find a ground. Where I put mine was directly behind the driver side rear seat. There is a piece of metal at the top of the trunk. We drilled a hole in the metal plate and put a steel screw there for our ground.
You are now ready to hook everything together and get that noise a poppin! Here is some pics of my setup:
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Not sure why this picture is upside down, apparently my iPhone likes to take pictures upside down.
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Amp and Cap located directly behind my seats. They haven't been secured yet since we wanted to make sure everything worked first. Not to mention it took us 10 hours to do all this : P
My Setup:
(2) 15" Kicker CVRs (Single Boxes, couldn't get a dual box to fit for the life of us.)
1600W Power Acoustik Amp
SPL Digital Cap
Hopefully this helps anyone that is as lost as we were! We just went with the flow and got it to work the first try.
If I left anything out, please let me know. Or if you have any comments or suggestions let me know!
Thanks!
Lando
