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So after looking for a guide on how to do this for 2 weeks, I finally just gave up and decided to do it with trial and error. My friend and I (who have installed before) just went with the flow when we were installing this, and actually got it to work with our first try.

So here is the guide on how to do it a G6.

Step 1: Running the Power Cable.

After looking through many posts about this, we came to the decision of running it through the grommet of the Hood Release cable. But after trying this, we decided the easier way would be just drilling a hole through the firewall.

**BEFORE DOING ANYTHING WITH ANY WIRES, I SUGGEST YOU UNHOOK BOTH OF YOUR BATTERY CABLES**

You will have to take out the plastic piece directly below your steering wheel. There are some bolts you must take out, and then plastic clips. Once you get this out, locate the hood release cable coming from your hood release lever. It should be a black cable running almost in the middle of your firewall. You will see what looks like a gray seal (the grommet.) You have the choice of cutting an X in it and running the power cable for your amp through here (depending on the gauge of it, ours was 8 gauge, so we went with drilling a hole in the firewall.)

If you choose to drill the hole, I suggest you do this UNDER the current whole the hood release cable is running. We attempted to drill above it, but our drill was getting caught on something, and were unable to drill through it. Drilling below it still took awhile, but it eventually went through.

After you get this drilled, when you put your cable through, it will come out behind and below the brake line in the front of your car. If you take a flash light, and look directly below the break line, you will see the hood release cable, and below that should be your now ran power cable. We fished it up and around the brake lines so it was not near anything. After that, hook it up to your positive end of your battery (NOTE, we left this unhooked until we had EVERYTHING hooked up so there were no exposed wires.)

Now that you ran one end of the cable, the next is to get that cable to your trunk. What we did was run it down where your stereo cables are on the driver side. You can remove the door molding (or "foot step") by just simply pulling up on it. It has the same plastic clips as what the panels under your steering wheel do. We ran the power cable through the black box that runs along side your passenger side bottom. This runs directly to your back seat, and even farther. We stopped once we got the back seat, and ran it through a hole that leads to your trunk (so that it does not interfere with the seats.) If you pull your back seats down, and look through the trunk, you can see this opening to the left of where your seats usually are. You now have your power cable ran and are ready to get going! The hardest part is now over.

(Sorry I don't have any pictures for this part, as it was hard enough to put the door molding back on, I am afraid to take it back off.)

Step 2: Hooking up your Output Converter

We used the Scosche FAI-3 converter (http://www.walmart.com/ip/Scosche-Ford-JBL-and-GM-Bose-Speaker-Level-Converter-FAI-3/1863065)

This is the part we were lost on. We have never used a converter before, so we just used common sense and decided to try it to see if it would work (and it actually did.)

What we did here was splice in the rear speakers, but instead of using the cables running to the speaker, we used the cables at the factory amp (with the Monsoon system.)



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This factory amp is located to the right of your trunk, behind the carpet that is held on with the nets. In the picture above, you can see my Monsoon amp with the output converter attached to it. Due to the last owner of my car, I was unable to get the plug in out of the amp because the clip on it was broke. We had to splice into the wires as it was, so we were unable to use crimping. But you can easily crimp the wires together instead of using electrical tape.

What you are looking to splice into is the farthest left plug in. You should have 9 wires in the plug in, but you only need to splice into 4 of them.

Here is the wiring diagram for our car:


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What we need are the following:
Left Rear + Input: Brown/White (Pin 29)
Left Rear - Input: Brown (Pin 30)
Right Rear - Input: Tan (Pin 37)
Right Rear + Input: Dark Blue (Pin 38)


What we did was take 4 wires, put them in the A5, A6, A7, A8 sockets on the Output Converter, and put them into the corresponding cables from the amp (can be found in the book that comes with the Output converter.)

Here is where they go:
A5 --------------- Left Rear + Input (Brown/White)
A6 --------------- Left Rear - Input (Brown)
A7 --------------- Right Rear - Input (Tan)
A8 --------------- Right Rear + Input (Dark Blue)

Once you have these hooked up, make sure to set the Output Converter to "Line Out."

While we are here, we will go ahead and setup the Remote wire. There have been alot of people who say they run it to the fuse box to something that only turns on when the key turns. But we actually spliced into the factory amp cable, and it works perfectly.

We thought, why not, it should work in theory. Well it worked for us. So you can take your remote wire and splice it into the Pink Wire on the amp (Pin 27.) Then run that to your amp.

Step 3: Setting Everything Else Up

You now have the hard parts over, and the rest should be easy as it is all just standard installation from now.

The only thing really left to do (other than plugging it all together) is to find a ground. Where I put mine was directly behind the driver side rear seat. There is a piece of metal at the top of the trunk. We drilled a hole in the metal plate and put a steel screw there for our ground.

You are now ready to hook everything together and get that noise a poppin! Here is some pics of my setup:



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Not sure why this picture is upside down, apparently my iPhone likes to take pictures upside down.



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Amp and Cap located directly behind my seats. They haven't been secured yet since we wanted to make sure everything worked first. Not to mention it took us 10 hours to do all this : P

My Setup:
(2) 15" Kicker CVRs (Single Boxes, couldn't get a dual box to fit for the life of us.)
1600W Power Acoustik Amp
SPL Digital Cap

Hopefully this helps anyone that is as lost as we were! We just went with the flow and got it to work the first try.

If I left anything out, please let me know. Or if you have any comments or suggestions let me know!

Thanks!

Lando
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Does this have a big effect on your battery?
I had all this equipment (did not have an aftermarket headunit) and a fairly new battery, and the only difference I saw on the battery was when the bass really hit, the lights dimmed slightly.

This whole setup only cost me $350 because I bought it all from a friend who had it in his taurus.

I ended up taking it all out because I was short on money at the time, but currently have just a set of pioneer rear speakers and I really miss the bass.
 

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I have a 2007 G6 Convert and trunk will not open with fob or door switch, The top wont go down because the cargo shade is not in a closed position. How else can i access my trunk to release the Emergency handle, I have removed rear seat bottom but need procedure on how to remove one of the seat Backs. Can anyone help or has this happened to another G6 owner ? THANKS BP
 

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okay i know this was awhile ago but in my 2009 g6 the factory amp is not on the left side or the right side of my trunk under the carpet. the right side has nothing and the left has a fuse box. where is it in my car?

Also i have two 12" alpine subs and two 650W alpine single mono channel amps, i am currently using a 500 Farat capacitor with a ground distribution block directly to the capacitor. i have the remote wires hooked up directly from one amp to the other and my power cable running directly from the amps to the capacitor then straight to the battery in my car. I am getting nothing at all from any of this and i am out of ideas any bit of help would be greatly appreciated. thank you

 

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If the amp isn't in the passenger side of the trunk, you don't have one. which means you have the basic audio system. For upgrading the stereo, that is good news as it makes it much simpler.

As to your problem...

First of all, where does the remote wire connect to other than the 2 amps? Or is it just between the 2 amps? If it's just between the 2 amps, you need to tap into a power source that only has power when the car is on. I'd recommend finding a fuse in the fuse box and using an add-a-circuit to tap into it.

Second, just to make sure, from what I can see, you have your 2 grounds from the amps doing to a distribution block and then to the negative terminal of the cap. It may be just the picture, but I can't see a connection going from the cap to ground.

I would test your amp with a digital multimeter to make sure you are getting 12V at each amp with the car off, or 14.4 with it on. Also verify that when the car is running there is power at the remote wire on each amp.

I must ask: I see that there is a fuse on your power wire by the cap, is there one also in the engine bay by the battery? If not, for your safety you need to put one in ASAP.

Just a couple of suggestions: I would really clean up that wiring and also ditch the useless capacitor (which btw is actually 0.5 Farads, not 500 Farads).
 

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that is what i thought but i wasnt sure if i actually needed the negative side of the capacitor grounded to the car chassis. i have hooked the remote up to a power source at at certain times but the split amp kit that my friends recommended said i didnt need to since i already had power going to the amps which he already has hooked up just without the capacitor and his was working.

Any word on where the factory amp is either with that converter i have its hooked up right to my head unit ( which is a pain) but i hooked that up all right
 

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The negative side of the cap needs to be tied to the car chassis, otherwise, the circuit is incomplete and you will get no power to the amps.

I personally don't know of any amps that have remote wire terminals that will work without the remote wire being hooked up to a power source.

If you connect the cap to ground and it still doesn't work, hook your remote wire up to a power source and see if it works.

As I said, the amp is on the passenger side of the trunk, behind the carpet. If it is not there, you dont have one.
 

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okay thank you so much i will post later today to let you know if everything worked out i have been tring random little things for weeks in my spare time to get this thing going and its been nothing but a problem

Thanks Again
 

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So i now have the Ground grounded to the chassis of my car and i have the remote hooked up to a low volt power supply and everything is getting power tested by a volt meter and i had a friend hook this amp up to his car and it worked so where is my problem?
Any ideas?
 

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Can you give me your volt meter readings for:

- 12V+ terminal of each amp
- remote terminal of each amp
- positive terminal of the cap
- positive terminal of the RCAs (should be the center prong of the RCA)

Assuming everything is hooked up properly, I would say there is an issue with either your RCAs or your line out converter.
 

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im getting 11-12V in every terminal connection i did not check the RCA's tho and the converter i bought new but maybe possibly could be that?
 

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Definitely could be. That voltage is what you should be getting with the car off, so that seems fine. So I would say it's either the RCAs or line out converter that are bad.
 

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Put your voltmeter on AC put the positive lead to the center pin on the RCA while putting the negative lead on the round part of the RCA. With the stereo on, you should get a reading that is constantly varying. If the RCAs to LOC are bad, the reading will be 0.
 

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I ran my remote wire from my amp to a dual cigarette lighter adapter an cut one off the sockets an attached to remote wire to it. That way I can kill my subs instantly if I have to.
 

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so i am now slowly getting things to work when i actually have the time to work on it.
but now i am getting a readout of 0.0 flashing on my capacitor?
What could be causing this?
 
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