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Dim goes out. Bright works fine. According to everything I read, the fix is replacing the connector that apparently melts. Been there...done that. 5 days later, no headlights. It's not logical. If a connector meltdown is causing the dim to go out, why isn't the bright and parking lights out. It's the same connector that supposedly melts. Wouldn't they all go out? The problem has to be between that connector and the dim bulb. I know a lot of people have had this problem. Anyone find a permanent fix? I've already gotten one bright light ticket and replaced both connectors. Replaced passenger side twice. Today...NO HEADLIGHTS. I can't keep replacing the same part every other week! Help! Replacing the headlight assembly doesn't work, either. So, don't even suggest that high dollar fix. Already talked to 3 owners who went that route. They got a whole month before their lights were out again. So, they've reverted to slapping the side each time they drive. I've tried. I'm not strong enough to make it work and it's painful and burst blood vessels. That's not an option I can live with. Please give me a solution other than getting rid of the car.
 

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Might not be a bad idea to check for good clean chassis ground from tbe battery. I don't know of all ground points for such system, but maybe spend a few minutes checking from lamp socket wiring back for a ground connection also to check for good clean chassis(body) connection point.
 

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If BOTH low beams are going out at the same time it has nothing to do with the wiring at the headlights. You need to check the relay or fuse area. I just had a problem with the right side low beam after doing the conversion to PIAA H9 bulbs. It turned out to be a corroded connection at low beam pigtail connection not at the bulb connection. If it happens again I will discrete wire the sucker.
 

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You didn't mention what brand bulbs and wattage you are using. For the Low beams factory is H11, that should be 55 watts. What happens is a lot of guys use brighter rated bulbs that have too high a wattage rating and they run hot and melt the connectors. Some guys change the plastic connectors out with ceramic ones. But if they still use higher rated watts they can melt the wires also! If you are using 55 watt bulbs and you are still having these problems you probably have corrosion in the connector or the pins are not making a tight fit? You must clean the connectors and apply a dielectric grease to the pins for a good electrical connection.
 

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Might not be a bad idea to check for good clean chassis ground from tbe battery. --- checking from lamp socket wiring back for a ground connection also to check for good clean chassis(body) connection point.
The headlight grounds are right behind the headlight assemblies. Look for the skinny black wire that comes from the harness and connects to the radiator support. I had this problem, and it was the crimp connection for the eye at the ground lug. Took a multi-meter to find it.
You could also try just unplugging the bulb and plugging it back in. If that fixes it, it's that connector.
 

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I had the same, driver's side always dying. The plastic housing on the bulb clip/holder was always just melting.
I ended up just putting some "crimp-on metal clips" on the wiring and connected them straight to the bulb and set it so the wiring could never short.
That was last year, been fine since.
 
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